Case neck tension

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fuzz

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Hello folks. I need some of your feedback on this subject. My question is; what do you do with your brass that does not size down well enough, due to their thickness, to sufficiently hold your seated bullet?

Explanation; I have two brands of brass that hold very well, and two brands that do not - regularily.

Thanks aplenty
Dwayne
 
I assume the thicker brass holds the bullet in place while the thinner brass does not. One option would be to just use the thicker brass. Another option is to neck turn the thicker brass and use a smaller bushing if you are using a bushing die. Or get a smaller sizing button to use with the thinner brass. All if which is a PITA.
 
I use a neck bushing die, that allows me to compensate for varying neck thicknesses. Then again, I don't use four different brands of cases.
 
fuzz said:
Hello folks. I need some of your feedback on this subject. My question is; what do you do with your brass that does not size down well enough, due to their thickness, to sufficiently hold your seated bullet?

Explanation; I have two brands of brass that hold very well, and two brands that do not - regularily.

Thanks aplenty
Dwayne[/Q
anneal all your brass and check again then turn cases all the same spec if you need to there can be no constant accuracy if neck tention varies good luck
Click to expand...
 
I am starting to go down this rabbit hole of neck tension. I have so many questions. I have been trying to do research on the topic. But I am failing to see the whole picture.
Does anyone have this fiquered out? Would you be available for a phone conversation? I find i have more questions than I can find answers.
Thanks
 
Going from the Richard Lee book, he recommends that the ID of your re-sized neck is .002" to .003" smaller than the bullet that you use. With "normal" dies - like RCBS, the necks are squished down smaller than needed on the up-stroke, and then the necks are opened up from the inside by the expander ball on the down stroke. Some of us prefer to run that expander in going down, so that makes an extra step in sizing - one pass into the die without the expander, then a second pass with the expander set out further than normal. With dies like that, neck thickness is not as critical since neck diameter is being created from the inside, however, varying hardness of the brass can result in different "spring back" by the cases, even though the same expander ball is used. (EDIT: actually two extra steps - run through a de-capper die first to remove the primers)

Some advise to install a "crimp" to account for lack of neck tension. I have been reloading centre fire rifle since mid 1970's and do not recall ever needing or wanting to crimp a bullet, except for cast bullets, which I roll crimp into their crimping groove. I do have a number of the Lee Factory crimp dies, but have never had the need to use them.

I will add that I have never been loading four different brands of brass for the same rifle - usually I get batches of 100 or 200 cases, and go with them until pockets get loose on some, then chuck the whole batch and start over.
 
What type and brand of die are you using?

What is the diameter of your expander, it should be at least .001 smaller than bullet diameter. I polish my expanders and most are .002 to .003 smaller than bullet diameter.

Chambers and dies vary in size, but most standard full length dies will size any neck thickness. This is why many reloaders say a standard die will overwork the case neck.

Below shows how much different .223 dies can size and work the case neck "with the same brand of brass".

Table 2 - Inside Diameter Measurements For 5 Different Sizing Dies
overworked_table2.jpg


Most reloaders try and use the same brand of brass for uniformity and accuracy. But at close range hunting in the woods mixed brass might be OK to use.

That being said in over 48 years of reloading with standard full length dies I have never had a die fail to reduce the neck diameter enough. Meaning you might have a defective die or work-hardened case necks that spring back more after sizing. This is where having a vernier caliper and a micrometer greatly helps check your cases.

You could try another sizing die or just use your cases that do size the neck properly. And again I would try and use only one brand of brass in a rifle to keep everything uniform.

I reload to make ammunition better than factory loaded ammo. And if you use mixed brass it can affect your accuracy at longer ranges.
 
I inside neck ream and outside neck turn my brass to have a better consistent tension. It is time consuming, however only required to perform it once............I enjoy the journey of reloading all the time, especially when experiencing something new.
 
If the OP reams or neck turns his case necks the problem will become worse.

The real question is why is his die not reducing the neck diameter enough to hold the bullet.
 
Million dollar problem, don't change variables, like brass.
And unless your are in 3rd place in the quarterly competitions, don't sweat neck tension too much.
 
Lots of good feedback, thanks folks. Normally I would usually use the brass that works with the least amount of labor, but I load and shoot for 3×358 Winchesters, so's I like to have certain brass for certain guns. Another safe guard to differentiate some of those spitzers that all look alike.
Dwayne
 
I’ve solved lack of tension problems by turning down expander balls, changing bushings, annealling cases, and a few times just had to concede that not every bullet can be loaded in every case at a COL that fits the magazine and work.

The most perplexing was for a custom STW, I’d picked up complete with loaded ammo, brass, a keg of Retumbo, an abundance of 180 Bergers, and bushing dies with bushings ranging from reasonable to ridiculous. The bullets set so loose that many would fall into the case. When you’re using 7 to 8 thousandths under bushing it bewildering. Finally; and after too much pondering I tried a different box of the same bullets. Instant cure: I’d got some bad bullets with taper to them. The deeper I seated them the looser they got.
 
Easy enough, use a bushing die.

I almost always buy a couple bushings when I set up a new die so I can test 2-4 thou tension.

You can set your shoulder bump with the lock ring and just swap bushings per your brass/rifle
 
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