what are these 1911 symptoms of...

marlin60

marlin60

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I have a new 1911.
It is very tight (slide doesn't rack very smoothly...a bit notchy)..but loosening up some after 120 rounds.

I oiled it more than normal during the two range sessions so far, to help break in.

But..some cases are being ejected straigth back to my face, head, bicep etc. Still happening...but maybe a little less (maybe not).

Is this a matter of tuning the extractor or will it settle down?

And..on more than one mag (nearly all, and they are 3 different brand names) the last round fails to eject about 50% of the time. It usually gets jammed horizontally (slightly nose up). Mag won't eject (it would one time this happened, out of 10 times).

They are hard to remove by finger strength..but I use needle nose pliers and they are EASY to pic out that way. They seem to be stuck by the rim/rear.

Could this be the recoil spring being too stiff as new..and this will settle down also once the spring loosens up?

It is a chinese clone that did get a little tune up by a smith.

Trying to determine if it needs help, or just more use.

Thanks.
 
You message is a little hard to decipher... what are you removing with pliers?

Oil is not a break in tool... can cause more problems as it picks up grit...
the recoil spring will work in with time but unless your weak even a new gun shouldn't be that difficult to rack the slide....

The ejection woes are caused by your recoil spring or ammo.....
Are you using a buffer?
is the ammo factory or reloads?

Your mag woes I'm not sure what your problem really is because of the description...
 
bear.23 said:
You message is a little hard to decipher... what are you removing with pliers?
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The stuck case. It is hard for me to get a grip on it by squeezing it with my index finger and thumb, or get my fingertip under it, or in the case mouth..so I just grab the needle nose pliers I keep in my bag and carefully pluck it out..it does not resist much. They come out easier if gripped by the mouth.

Oil is not a break in tool... can cause more problems as it picks up grit...
Click to expand...

Agreed, but the pistol was field stripped and cleaned when received, and lightly oiled. Because it was 'notchy' and having issues, I oiled the frame grooves a little extra. I've read it can help. It's only shot 100+ rounds..and looks pretty clean inside. It had both problems right from the get go, and before I added the oil.[/QUOTE]

the recoil spring will work in with time but unless your weak even a new gun shouldn't be that difficult to rack the slide....
Click to expand...

I'm 6', 220....my CZ SP01 was a b**tch to rack when I got it new too..but it was smooth. The 1911 seems to hang up in the middle of the travel..just a little...and it is going away.

The ejection woes are caused by your recoil spring or ammo.....
Are you using a buffer?
is the ammo factory or reloads?

Your mag woes I'm not sure what your problem really is because of the description...
Click to expand...

There is a factory buffer on it...but I'm considering getting a pack to replace this item regulary (I am new to 1911's).

They are well known reloads (but I have not tried factory loads....I know....I will next time).

The failure to eject the final round may not be the mags....it may be the pistol........but I have heard that last round FTE is pretty common among 1911's. Some people always load one less round than capacity as I've read it helps.

Thanks for the feedback.... I shoot the pistol better than any other I have...if it works itself out...SWEET.
 
Seeing how you're getting inconsistent ejection, it's probably an extractor issue. Jamming on the last round could also be an extractor issue, or it could be a heavy recoil spring issue like you said.

Also, when you say that the slide does not rack smoothly, are you sure it's because the slide to frame finish is too tight and not because of the recoil spring?
 
OK now I understand you get and FTE (failure to Extract) and a stovepipe (the round doesn't chamber )... Ok... Now we understand.... This is and extractor and spring issue...

no 1911 comes with a factory buffer... JB certainly didn't design them that way.. Remove it... Some guns need them but if the recoil spring is that strong you don't need it....

The strength of the recoil spring will determine a number of things how fast the slide returns, how far back the slide goes... But your rounds also determine this... as was also mentioned how tight is the slide on the frame.... (turn the bushing , remove the plug and spring) is the slide still tight?

As for stovepipes being a mag problem yup sure it can be... But that is usually because they are using cheap mags and weak ammo... I can load 8 rounds in my mags and shoot 200 rounds without an issue... (as long as the shooter is sound)

Limpwristing can also cause FTE's and stovepipes.. especially in a gun with strong springs.. assume this is a 5" Norinco?
 
I would look first at extractor tension. If it is not gripping the case firmly enough or in fact not tensioning it at all, the last round out of the gun won't have a fresh round coming up underneath it to help lift it into position for the ejector to hit correctly. This means it could be slipping down a little during the extraction stroke and this could lead to the stovepipes. Additionally, a loose extractor would/could lead to erratic ejection patterns.

The extractor should have enough tension on the case to hold a live round in place against the breach face under gravity (slide off and barrel removed).

Next I would look at ejector length and angle, and lastly I would look at recoil spring weight, but that would be more of a tuning-to-taste issue rather than a function issue. Your mags may also be dirty, which can cause the followers to lift too slowly, but from what you describe I wouldn't look to the mags as my first suspect.
 
bear.23 said:
OK now I understand you get and FTE (failure to Extract) and a stovepipe (the round doesn't chamber )... Ok... Now we understand.... This is and extractor and spring issue...
Click to expand...

Yes, and it is ALWAYS the last round in the mag. I'm too beat tonight to clean the firearms I shot today..but will do so tomorrow and take a hard look at the extractor etc.
 
All semi autos, and particularly the 1911 style ones need to have about 200-300 rounds through them before they really break in. I would suggest you have the gun looked at for something obvious, and if nothung is found, just keep using it to see if will come out when it wears in. Another thing you should try is a change of ammo, some semi auto can be very picky with what you feed them.
 
marlin60, If your 1911 is a Norinco you have a great low priced pistol; I wish we could still buy them in the States. Try some jeweler's rouge in the slide/frame rails and then work the two back and forth, that should slick up the two. The magazine problem may well be the result of the grip screws being either too long or over tightened; back the screws off a little and see if the mags drop free. Regards, Richard:D
 
thebaron said:
Let me guess... M5000 Commander?
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How did you know??;)

highlander said:
All semi autos, and particularly the 1911 style ones need to have about 200-300 rounds through them before they really break in. I would suggest you have the gun looked at for something obvious, and if nothung is found, just keep using it to see if will come out when it wears in. Another thing you should try is a change of ammo, some semi auto can be very picky with what you feed them.
Click to expand...

I believe break in will help, and I do need to try different ammo. The gun is VERY tight...I guess that what a good smith does. I am still suspect on the extractor...but that is not a big piece of work if needed later on.

It's a real shooter...no doubt about that.
 
extractor

Sounds like an extractor issue for sure. It should be slightly relieved on its bottom hook and the tension can be critical to functioning 100%. If the tension on the extractor is too tight it will cause feeding problems as the new round will not be able slide under the hook of the extractor. Not hard to adjust but need to be the right tension. You may want your "smith" to take another look for you.
 
ottoman said:
Sounds like an extractor issue for sure. ..... Not hard to adjust but need to be the right tension. You may want your "smith" to take another look for you.
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Original smith is too far away..and wait times WAY too long.

Extractor work is like changing tires on a car...pretty well understood and routine by all smiths. I'll take to the local shop to have it remedied if need be.

Might muck with it myself...that's one beauty of a low end 1911...
 
marlin60 said:
How did you know??;)



I believe break in will help, and I do need to try different ammo. The gun is VERY tight...I guess that what a good smith does. I am still suspect on the extractor...but that is not a big piece of work if needed later on.

It's a real shooter...no doubt about that.
Click to expand...

I have the same gun, every casing was pegging me in the head, I brought it into Jason at Gunco and he fixed the ejector and sent me on my way, cost me 5$.
 
thebaron said:
I have the same gun, every casing was pegging me in the head, I brought it into Jason at Gunco and he fixed the ejector and sent me on my way, cost me 5$.
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marlin60 said:
Original smith is too far away..and wait times WAY too long.

Extractor work is like changing tires on a car...pretty well understood and routine by all smiths. I'll take to the local shop to have it remedied if need be.

Might muck with it myself...that's one beauty of a low end 1911...
Click to expand...

I stopped by Jason's shop last year when I was visiting family up there. He was closed that day (Monday I think).:(

But I hear yaaa...will do the same with mine locally in a few weeks.

Funny coincidence on these pistols...anyone else experience that?
 
marlin60 said:
Funny coincidence on these pistols...anyone else experience that?
Click to expand...

Yup.

1109.gif


That poster was made with this thread in mind, I think.
 
OK now I understand you get and FTE (failure to Extract) and a stovepipe (the round doesn't chamber )...
Click to expand...
So, is this what happens or is the very last round(case) doesn't eject after it's fired (the mag is empty)?

I would take the slide off and remove the barrel and recoil spring, then put the slide back on (w/o barrel or spring) and see if the slide moves freely or if it's still very tight.

Also If the slide is too hard to rack, lighter mainspring might help. Try cocking the hammer (again remove the barrel and recoil spring) and holding it back with something and than pull the slide as usual and see if the pull is lighter.

anyways keep up updated...
 
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