Help with a Ross M10

cantom said:
I understand your frustration and you're no doubt right...but the rifles don't say Mk 3 anywhere unless they have the original unsanded stock...even the Canadian Firearms Centre has mine registered as an M10...it's like trying to hold back high tide...:cool:
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The butt has been sporterised, here is a pic of the receiver, doses that help?
Picture006-1.jpg
 
Ross MKIII

With the Ross, most all markings were applied to rightside of butt including serial number,date, cartouche, MK#, issue markings etc. Just to confuse things further, the correct serial# incorporates the rifle number, letter series and date. Thats why any Ross that has escaped the sandpaper is coveted by collectors. By the way, ROSSGUY is thee guru of things Ross.
Cheers
Geoff in Victoria
 
Hi-Standard said:
Nice rifle cantom, just a quick note though. Your front sight hood is on backwards. Just remove the two screws and flip'er around;) You'll love the Ross, great bit of fun to shoot.

Edit: cantom yours maybe right, mine maybe on backwards:redface: I'll check into it.
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Hey Hi-Standard- The guy I bought my rifle from on the EE had two of them for sale, and looking at the pics of both I see this.

Ross9.jpg
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Ross7.jpg
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Note that one front sight hood is one way and the other is the other way, and that's from the same guy! I suspect most don't know what's the right way to put them on. I did however find this site, seems mine is right.

http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/2069/r10.html

* Or so I thought till...look at the last two pictures...D"oh!!*
 
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The other one is a bubbaed Ross 1905 with a strange sight and metal still uncut.
PerversPepere;
Your strange sight is a H. L. Block rear sight. Not to be confused with H&R Block. Could you post a pic of just the sight??

khornet
 
For what it may be worth, here are some excellent reference photos showing the "correct" and "incorrect" orientation of the bolthead when re-inserting the M10/MkIII Ross bolt:

Rossbolt_Correct_sm.jpg


Rossbolt_Incorrect_sm.jpg


I would credit them to the original creator with thanks, but unfortunately I can't remember who provided these (on another forum.) However, I certainly saved them for my own reference ... especially since my own MkIII Ross is in fully original configuration - i.e. unlike most, the bolt has not been pinned to preclude improper re-assembly!

Here is my MkIII - note that it is unit-marked to Lord Strathcona's Horse - it would have been issued to the LSH during the relatively brief period the regiment was assigned a dismounted "infantry" role in the trenches, during 1915 and the first weeks of 1916, before being re-constituted as a mounted force on 16 February 1916 ...

rightside02.jpg


leftside02.jpg


rightaction02.jpg


leftaction01.jpg


buttmarks02.jpg
 
khornet said:
The other one is a bubbaed Ross 1905 with a strange sight and metal still uncut.
PerversPepere;
Your strange sight is a H. L. Block rear sight. Not to be confused with H&R Block. Could you post a pic of just the sight??

khornet
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I'll do it as soon as I can, let's say tomorrow morning.
The sight has a somewhat curved elevation board and sliding cursor with springloaded pushbuttons. In front, there's a knurled ring, concentric to the barrel, which actuates two flat pieces of steel with square notches running on each side of the sight in grooves cut in the sight body, permitting very fine adjustment of the range.
The rear part of the sight is mounted on a dovetail and can be moved from side to side for windage with a small knurled knob.
PP.
 
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"The Ross Rifle Story" is the single major reference. Available as a reprint. Costs about as much as a bubba'd rifle. It is dated, and not well organized. There are smaller soft cover books.
A service rifle with the 1910 action (which will be stamped M-10 on the receiver ring) is a Mk. III rifle. The service rifles made with the 1905 action are Mk. II rifles, and there are a series of variations denoted by adding stars (*). Mk. II, Mk. II*, Mk. II**, Mk. II***, Mk. II****, Mk. II*****. There are numerous variations which did not receive a * designation. The rifles were continuously altered while in service. Mk. IIIs are very standardized in comparison. With standard production, there are two patterns of nosecaps, two patterns of bolt stops, a few variations of chamber dimensions, two rear sight slides, along with some minor mechanical variations in rear sights. The rifle referred to in factory literature as a M-10 is a sporting rifle. There is no Mk10. The Ross section of the FRT leaves something to be desired. Note that GrantR's Mk. III has a CFC stickie, even though it bears a perfectly good original serial. Original Ross sporting rifles are generally identified with a system based on the date of the action design, plus a code for the grade of the rifle.
 
Gentlemen- Last notice from me, then I'll just shut up about it! A Ross M-10 is ONLY the top-of-the-line .280 Commercial Sporter! I am in a position to set out seven distinctly-different Ross rifles that ALL show either "M-10" or "M-1910" on the receiver ring. Would common sense not perhaps indicate that Ross used the same receiver forging for all rifles in the 1910 series, with the same roll-markings applied? The seven would be: Commercial-M-10, E-10 and R-10 plus a unique custom .303 supplied to one of the Gov't Inspectors, then Military:- MkIII Cdn Contract, MkIIIB Pommie Contract and the .280 Military Match rifle (IMHO, the prettiest MilRoss of them all...looks like a 7/8th scale MkIII) Rossguy
 
Perverspepere- nothing "strange" about your sight at all- it's a right-as-rain Ross MkII sight, circa 1907, but was retrofitted to a lot of MkI rifles as well. Scarce; perhaps, but not strange.If the barrel is still 28" and the stock markings are still there, it would be an excellent candidate for restoration.Think about it....Rossguy
 
Should anyone really want a copy of the Ross Rifle Story, a call to Young Bob McCormick in Ontario at 905 772 0383 will find one (or more) for something like $100 plus postage- Shortcomings and dated, but it's the best we've got....Rossguy If you're south of the razor-wire E me here in Dixie.
 
cantom said:
Hey Hi-Standard- The guy I bought my rifle from on the EE had two of them for sale, and looking at the pics of both I see this.

Ross9.jpg
[/IMG]
Ross7.jpg
[/IMG]

Note that one front sight hood is one way and the other is the other way, and that's from the same guy! I suspect most don't know what's the right way to put them on. I did however find this site, seems mine is right.

http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/2069/r10.html

* Or so I thought till...look at the last two pictures...D"oh!!*
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Yea, now I'm confused too? Anybody know how the sight hood is supposed to face? Taper to the rear(breech) or front(muzzel)?
 
Rossguy said:
Should anyone really want a copy of the Ross Rifle Story, a call to Young Bob McCormick in Ontario at 905 772 0383 will find one (or more) for something like $100 plus postage- Shortcomings and dated, but it's the best we've got....Rossguy If you're south of the razor-wire E me here in Dixie.
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Did you say Young? When I see him at the next show, well, that will make his morning.
 
If you're too cheap to buy a reprint of the Manual from Abbey Press on Fleabay and GunBroker.com, start with two bolts: one to dismantle; the other to use as a comparison when you finish reassembling the first one. Push the cocking-piece to the back of the bolt with your thumb, and rotate it so it doesn't pop back in. Push the fat little transverse pin holding the firing pin to the cocking-piece out, then just extract the bolt itself from the front. Going in to the spring? Be careful backing out the locking nut, as when it comes out, there's still spring pressure behind it, and the tiny toothed washer inside will automatically fly to the least-accessible part of your workshop, never to be seen again. Now that you have it apart, do you know why you wanted to do it in the first place? Do what you need/want to do, then slip it all back together. When you're pretty sure you've done it right, just compare it to the bolt you set aside as a known-correct sample, before putting it back in your rifle.Final check? Look at the gas vent in the bolt-head with the bolt fully back...if it'd pointing straight up at you, you're all done.
 
Thanks Rossguy and thanks PerversPepere!
BTW, great writeup in Milsurps PP! Really good and just what's needed...these things are a bit scary, like one false step and...

What I do with mine is look as the bolt goes in and watch the head rotate. Yes, the hole is up when the bolt is back.

ps Does anyone have pics of riveted and non-riveted bolts?
 
Rivet

cantom said:
ps Does anyone have pics of riveted and non-riveted bolts?
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Mine are all riveted. The rivet is on the straight part of the bolt body and you can see it easily: it is nearly flush but you can feel it if you run your finger across the top of the bolt. It is more of a 1/8th dia. rod press-fitted in a hole in the bolt body then shaved flush. It precludes remounting the bolt wrong because there's only one way to start it in the threads.
It doesn't hamper takedown but avoids remounting it the wrong way.
Good shooting!
PP.:)
 
Rossguy said:
If you're too cheap to buy a reprint of the Manual from Abbey Press on Fleabay and GunBroker.com, start with two bolts: one to dismantle; the other to use as a comparison when you finish reassembling the first one. Push the cocking-piece to the back of the bolt with your thumb, and rotate it so it doesn't pop back in. Push the fat little transverse pin holding the firing pin to the cocking-piece out, then just extract the bolt itself from the front. Going in to the spring? Be careful backing out the locking nut, as when it comes out, there's still spring pressure behind it, and the tiny toothed washer inside will automatically fly to the least-accessible part of your workshop, never to be seen again. Now that you have it apart, do you know why you wanted to do it in the first place? Do what you need/want to do, then slip it all back together. When you're pretty sure you've done it right, just compare it to the bolt you set aside as a known-correct sample, before putting it back in your rifle.Final check? Look at the gas vent in the bolt-head with the bolt fully back...if it'd pointing straight up at you, you're all done.
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Rotate it? It won't go back far enough to be able to do so. It would have to go another half inch to be able to rotate it out of the slot, and it won't.

BTW, I tried but couldn't get the firing pin cross pin out of the cocking piece, I hit it with varying degrees of force with various pin punches and finally decided that it wants to stay the way it is. Lubed the bolt assembly up good with Break Free, cleaned the spotless bore and called her good. Very nice rifle and action.
BTW, I see nothing that looks like a rivet...I have to assume mine is not rivited.
 
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