Stock refinishing: stripper or sanding?

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alltieear

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Looking to refinish a stock that has a few dents and patchy refinish spots.

Do I really need to hire a stripper to remove the previous finish before I start sanding?

Or would sanding it off be enough?
 
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Sanding will usually take longer and it can be 'over sanded' in places while trying to get all of the finish off. I prefer to use Circa 1850 Stripper and then sand.
 
guntech said:
Sanding will usually take longer and it can be 'over sanded' in places while trying to get all of the finish off. I prefer to use Circa 1850 Stripper and then sand.
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will the stripper work on any finish? I am completely new to this and do not really know what type of finish is currently on the stock
 
alltieear said:
will the stripper work on any finish? I am completely new to this and do not really know what type of finish is currently on the stock
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https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=Circa+1850+Stripper

Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper

Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper quickly and easily strips off multiple layers of oil, latex and epoxy paint; oil and latex varnish; polyurethane; moisture cure; lacquer and shellac.It does not require any afterwash or neutralising. Safe to use on fine furniture – will not raise wood grain, harm most glue joints or veneers, or damage patina. May soften plastic and fibreglass. Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper is non-flammable and almost odourless.
 
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I have several "good deals" that someone thought to spruce up by "re-finishing" - in almost every case, there is so much sanded off that the wood no longer fits smoothly with the metal parts. DON"T USE SANDING! The above advice about Circa 1850 is absolutely correct! It works very well - simply follow the instructions on the can.
 
Circa 1850 to get the old finish off, steam out some dings, and sand LIGHTLY with fine grades of paper - start somewhere around 240 and work up from there. Goal is smoothing without removing much "stock."
 
AikiNut said:
Circa 1850 to get the old finish off, steam out some dings, and sand LIGHTLY with fine grades of paper - start somewhere around 240 and work up from there. Goal is smoothing without removing much "stock."
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And use a block wherever possible to avoid rounding on edges.
 
All good advice. Another vote for 1850 stripper. Sanding is optional. I do, but I am certain there are cases where I would not. I start at 220 and stop at 400 (Norton 3x sandpaper) Small pieces of paper and a light touch! Steaming dents is rewarding.
 
Only time I had a problem was on Browning plastic finishes, it works , just take a lot of time and coats.
It is the only stripper I use. Get gloves, better out side, but I have used lots in the shop.
Get 0000 steel wool to clean off the soft finish, 2 or 3 coats, or what ever, when I think it is good, I do one more quick coat just to be sure. Don't get in a rush, let it work, if starts to look dry, brush on another coat., clean off with steel wool, burlap works good as well., repeat., varnish is easy, I haven't done much with water base stuff.
Salter, You are a bad dude, I messed up the key board,LOL. Got to go for more coffee now. Bye.
 
The can I have here is labeled "Circa 1850 heavy body paint and varnish remover". Does not have the words "furniture" or "stripper" on the label or on the face of the can, although part way down it does say "One-Step Stripping" in red letters. I live in rural Manitoba, so was picked either at the local Co-op lumber yard or at the Home Hardware store - no where else that I could have bought it? No price sticker on it, so thinking more likely it came from the Co-op?
 
alltieear said:
Looking to refinish a stock that has a few dents and patchy refinish spots.

Do I really need to hire a stripper to remove the previous finish before I start sanding?

Or would sanding it off be enough?
Click to expand...

If you do not strip the old finish first, it's going to fill up the sand paper in a few seconds of sanding. You could get a crepe block (rubber'ish block that allows you to remove anything that is filling up the sand paper) and hope to get a bit more out of your sanding papers.

For what it's worth, when I refinished a stock, I stripped it first. You can't get everything off, but it helps a LOT.

Wear gloves if you strip it. That stuff is rough if you get it on your skin.

David
 
A lot of places stopped stocking 1850 due to environmental concerns, I loved Circa 1850. I have not found it locally since and have moved onto another brand that is not quite as active, so it takes more coats.
Use those mesh pads and wood scrapers (like sharpened popsicle sticks) to aid in the stripping and cleaning and use very little sanding.
Use good chemical resistant gloves, the light ones melt quickly.
Try not to use anything that may gouge the wood or leave marks and it is easier to refinish.
 
thanks for all the advice. I am gathering all the materials and will take my time with it over the cold winter. I want to shoot as much as I can now while the gun is still fully assembled.

Also, is there a special kind of sand paper i should be using or just the regular run of the mill at home depot will work?

I like to finish with boiled linseed oil, but I heard it will need like 30 coats.....
 
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