The GSG 16 modification thread
- Thread starter Danfizz
- Start date
- Location
- Nova Scotia
Replacement detent, I just used the ball section off a 1/8" pop rivet.
870pumplover
CGN Regular
Thanks
870pumplover
CGN Regular
So I just went for it and the mag mod worked out great. Tedious couple of hours with a dremel and a file but worth it. You have to shave like a 1/4" all the way around and you lose the thumb feed pull. I have my gsg mp40 9mm mag loader that will work, it's more of a show mag anyways.
Here are pics
http://imgur.com/gallery/BCUEuQJ
Here are pics
http://imgur.com/gallery/BCUEuQJ
Prometheus
Member
- Location
- Alberta & British Columbia
niiiiice.
wow, nice indeed... it's 95% of the look now. Change that horrible rear sight and you're golden
870pumplover
CGN Regular
I'm sure they would, look to be the same. I used CYMA mags from Andy's Airsoft in PEI
https://andysairsoft.ca/opencart/index.php?route=product/product&path=82&product_id=1609
All these mags have the same tolerances I'm sure. They are deff a little tight and wont drop free. I also use the paddle mag release to ease tension while inserting the metal mags as the receiver is plastic after all.
Cheers
870pumplover
CGN Regular
wow, nice indeed... it's 95% of the look now. Change that horrible rear sight and you're golden
Just waiting on DTB to finish upgrading his 3d printer setup so I cant get the top rail.
I was also able to fit the HLT front handguard as you see in pics with the 522 conversion kit. I cut down and painted a rod the same diameter as the hk pin hole. Locktited that in to stop the left to right shift and a plastic dowel shim to stop the up and down. Its now soild until airsoft furniture is restocked, same with the fixed stock. Took alot of time , rework and painting to get them okay with my ocd lmfao
So I wasn't really happy with the paint finish on my first attempt(MK 0).
Also the difference in height between the upper and cocking tube bug me a little bit.
While watching Gnutzguy on YouTube for some informative video, decided to disassemble my GSG16 and try to fix the issue.
With a Dremel, files, epoxy putty and a little bit of patience I end up making my "MK 1" lol
While at it I also polished the trigger and remove the mag safety.
Also the difference in height between the upper and cocking tube bug me a little bit.
While watching Gnutzguy on YouTube for some informative video, decided to disassemble my GSG16 and try to fix the issue.
With a Dremel, files, epoxy putty and a little bit of patience I end up making my "MK 1" lol
While at it I also polished the trigger and remove the mag safety.
Last edited:
870pumplover
CGN Regular
So I wasn't really happy with the paint finish on my first attempt(MK 0).
Also the difference in height between the upper and cocking tube bug me a little bit.
While watching Gnutzguy on YouTube for some informative video, decided to disassemble my GSG16 and try to fix the issue.
With a Dremel, files, epoxy putty and a little bit of patience I end up making my "MK 1" lol
While at it I also polished the trigger and remove the mag safety.
You have a video as to how to properly shave it ?
Unfortunately I don't have a video, I only have the pictures
below.
It was faster and easier than I expected, the plastic is rather soft so it was easy to work with.
This is how I did mine,
Remove the screw inserts for the top rail and fill up those gap and all the hollow parts at the top of upper with some epoxy putty to reinforce the upper.
Like in picture below I started by cutting the "notch" with a Dremel and a cutting disk.
Followed by quick sanding with a Dremel and sanding drum.
To give it his final shape you can use a file, me personally I made some sanding blocks of 1"x3"x8" and glue 150g, 320g sanding paper on each side.
I find it easier and more precise and it gave me more surface area to work with.
Once I was happy with the shape, I smooth it out with 400g paper by hand.
I used Camo ultra flat paint so it hide a lot of the imperfections.
Hope this help, let me know if you have any questions.
870pumplover
CGN Regular
Unfortunately I don't have a video, I only have the pictures
below.
It was faster and easier than I expected, the plastic is rather soft so it was easy to work with.
This is how I did mine,
Remove the screw inserts for the top rail and fill up those gap and all the hollow parts at the top of upper with some epoxy putty to reinforce the upper.
Like in picture below I started by cutting the "notch" with a Dremel and a cutting disk.
Followed by quick sanding with a Dremel and sanding drum.
To give it his final shape you can use a file, me personally I made some sanding blocks of 1"x3"x8" and glue 150g, 320g sanding paper on each side.
I find it easier and more precise and it gave me more surface area to work with.
Once I was happy with the shape, I smooth it out with 400g paper by hand.
I used Camo ultra flat paint so it hide a lot of the imperfections.
Hope this help, let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks alot
870pumplover
CGN Regular
Unfortunately I don't have a video, I only have the pictures
below.
It was faster and easier than I expected, the plastic is rather soft so it was easy to work with.
This is how I did mine,
Remove the screw inserts for the top rail and fill up those gap and all the hollow parts at the top of upper with some epoxy putty to reinforce the upper.
Like in picture below I started by cutting the "notch" with a Dremel and a cutting disk.
Followed by quick sanding with a Dremel and sanding drum.
To give it his final shape you can use a file, me personally I made some sanding blocks of 1"x3"x8" and glue 150g, 320g sanding paper on each side.
I find it easier and more precise and it gave me more surface area to work with.
Once I was happy with the shape, I smooth it out with 400g paper by hand.
I used Camo ultra flat paint so it hide a lot of the imperfections.
Hope this help, let me know if you have any questions.
What epoxy did you use? I've never worked with it before so it will be a learning curve.
Cheers
I used JB Weld SteelWeld, it's pretty easy to use.
The cure time of the Steel Weld is like 5 min so only mix it by small batches.
If you want to have more time to work on it, you can use the Plastic Weld version, the cure time is 3 hrs.
Have some acetone near by it's always handy to clean up the epoxy.
Oh and don't go crazy with the Dremel(5-10K rpm) the plastic is soft.
The Dremel is only to cut the notches and to roughly shape it.
Start at the front of the upper because you can clearly see the round shape.
I mostly used the sanding block because I can use it as a guide.
The cure time of the Steel Weld is like 5 min so only mix it by small batches.
If you want to have more time to work on it, you can use the Plastic Weld version, the cure time is 3 hrs.
Have some acetone near by it's always handy to clean up the epoxy.
Oh and don't go crazy with the Dremel(5-10K rpm) the plastic is soft.
The Dremel is only to cut the notches and to roughly shape it.
Start at the front of the upper because you can clearly see the round shape.
I mostly used the sanding block because I can use it as a guide.
- Location
- Nova Scotia
I wouldn't use a dremel. I ruined a receiver with using just a rasp. Doesn't take much to make a low spot. Then spending more time trying to fix these spots. And I have been waiting since May on purchasing a new receiver.
And 870 if you are planning on getting a DTB rail delete, shaving the sides will be negated installing the delete.
And 870 if you are planning on getting a DTB rail delete, shaving the sides will be negated installing the delete.
870pumplover
CGN Regular
Ya I think I will be just leaving it as is fir now with the DTB delete
