Looking for input on a new project I have in my mind. I am looking to start assembling the pieces to build a custom Mauser. The thought is to start with M98 action and pair with composite stock and cerakote all the metal. Wondering how you all would do it. I am thinking either 300 Win Mag or 280 AI. The primary target would be Moose and Grizzlies.
New Project Custom Mauser
- Thread starter 100/6
- Start date
ackleyruger
Member
- Location
- central AB
35 Whelan. Big and serious, no need to open up bolt face
- Location
- Western Manitoba
OP, I have a number of such projects under way here. A tremendous learning experience if you want to do it yourself and to do it "correctly". The "Shop Manual" for Mausers by Jerry Kuhnhausan was found to be very useful. So, you'll need to buy or have access to a receiver wrench and a barrel vice to be able to remove the original barrel, and then headspace gauges to install the new barrel. The first receiver wrench and barrel vice I used were "hand made" with welding and files. I now use a Brownells receiver wrench set - I still use a barrel vice I bought on CGN, but I turn my own aluminum inserts on my lathe. Then a "jig" of some sort to set up to drill and tap the scope base mount holes to correct spacings and "square". Not much use without at least a good drill press, or even better, a mill. At this point you have far exceeded in tooling costs what you can buy a commercial mauser on-line for - all that work has already been done.
Then, the heat sinks, and /or perhaps forging blocks, to alter the military bolt handle to accommodate a scope, without softening the cam surface at the rear of the bolt body. Then, to scrape and possibly bed the stock to fit the action, barrel and bottom metal. Some sort of solution to replace the military "over the top" safety. "Pillars" or sleeves to get the action and barrel set at correct height within the stock, then correct spacing between bottom of the action and the magazine box / floor plate.
I can get most of these stages done, but then run out of know how when it comes to rust blueing or coatings like Gunkote or Cerrocoat.
As per post #3, I did actually did buy a Husqvarna sporter rifle in 9.3x62 - in about 2013 - built on an FN commercial large ring mauser action - despite my best efforts, I can not reproduce anything "as good". I do not remember exactly, but I think I paid more for my Forster jig than I did for that Husqvarna. I did install a horizontal three position Dakota safety lever on the Husqvarna - it works nearly identically to my Win 70 rifles. I found an older Leupold M8-3x on CGN EE a few years ago - pretty much as good as it gets, I think. I also bought a Zastava M70 a few years ago - if you like to work on mausers that is certainly a very good start - some use them as purchased, but there are a lot of opportunities to "improve" them...
Then, the heat sinks, and /or perhaps forging blocks, to alter the military bolt handle to accommodate a scope, without softening the cam surface at the rear of the bolt body. Then, to scrape and possibly bed the stock to fit the action, barrel and bottom metal. Some sort of solution to replace the military "over the top" safety. "Pillars" or sleeves to get the action and barrel set at correct height within the stock, then correct spacing between bottom of the action and the magazine box / floor plate.
I can get most of these stages done, but then run out of know how when it comes to rust blueing or coatings like Gunkote or Cerrocoat.
As per post #3, I did actually did buy a Husqvarna sporter rifle in 9.3x62 - in about 2013 - built on an FN commercial large ring mauser action - despite my best efforts, I can not reproduce anything "as good". I do not remember exactly, but I think I paid more for my Forster jig than I did for that Husqvarna. I did install a horizontal three position Dakota safety lever on the Husqvarna - it works nearly identically to my Win 70 rifles. I found an older Leupold M8-3x on CGN EE a few years ago - pretty much as good as it gets, I think. I also bought a Zastava M70 a few years ago - if you like to work on mausers that is certainly a very good start - some use them as purchased, but there are a lot of opportunities to "improve" them...
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littlehughey
Regular
- Location
- Central Alberta
With a primary goal of moose and grizzlies, I'd be leaning towards something heavier than 300WM and 280AI. 338-06, 35 Whelen, 9.3x62. I'm not saying your two choices are inadequate, but if primary usage is BIG game, best use a BIG cartridge.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
I am pretty much a prairie "flat land" hunter. "Made do" with 308 Win and 7x57 for deer - last two elk taken with 338 Win Mag, but first one was with the 308 Win. Have never taken a moose. Was north of Grande Cache, Alberta to "help" brother who got drawn for moose. I carried by 9.3x62, ostensibly with a "Coyote/Wolf" tag. I had 250 grain Accubond loaded, in the unlikely event that I was actually going to shoot at a coyote or wolf. But I had a handful of Round Nose 286 grain loads - that is what was going to be in the rifle if we were "packing out" pieces of a moose. Too many grizzlies in those mountains for me - whatever happened was likely to be very close, and I wanted the most "smack" possible, so went with the heavier bullets. Never did fire a shot. Brother shot his moose the morning after I left, and was able to pick his way through the bush right up to the cutline where the moose lay, with his pick-up truck, so was no real drama to it at all... He did manage to lose his cell phone, probably while dressing it, and went back the next morning to kill site to look - wolves had cleaned up the gut pile overnight, and no cell phone.
For a serious hunting rifle, I think a Mauser is pretty hard to beat but there are some caveats. The first thing is; you won't be building an ultra-light rifle on a Mauser. Another thing is; if you are diverging very much from the cartridges for which the action was designed, you want be sure the gunsmith knows what might be required for reliable function.
I would build a standard 280 rather than an AI. The standard cartridge feeds much better in a CRF action; especially if that action is a Mauser. The AI cartridge will always have a little glitch as the shoulder of the case contacts the top of the chamber a little too early. The same thing is true of many of the magnum cartridges. Understand, I'm not saying the AI cartridges will fail to feed; I'm just saying they won't feed as smoothly.
Having said all of this, if I was building a dedicated moose and grizzly rifle, I would go 30 cal or larger and my choices would come down to the 30/06, the 338/06, and the 35 Whelen. If I wanted a magnum, the best choice would be a 338 Win Mag. The first three fit a 98 Mauser with very little alteration. The 338 requires a little more work but not so much that there are likely to be any real issues.
pete dobinson
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Courtenay BC.
Grizzlies are on the menu as well.
Not a problem at all with the real deal 8X57 loads. Any factory ammo loaded outside of North America will be fine.
Ted
- Location
- Western Manitoba
A quick look at Nosler #7 manual - Partition bullets - 30-06 - 200 grain @ 2,688 or 220 @ 2,602; 8x57JS - 200 grain @ 2,698; 338-06 210@ 2,690, 225 @ 2,595 or 250 @ 2,424. Hard to imagine any practical difference at ranges of concern, since I do not believe there are any open seasons to hunt grizzly?? The 35 Whelen 225 grain @ 2,805 and 250 grain at 2,637 probably can not do something that the others can not do, inside, say 30 yards...
Thanks everyone this was super helpful. Normally, I carry a M70 30-06 for moose, however this is to build something with more ‘punch’. I am not super concerned with having a heavier rifle, in fact kind of prefer it. I will admit I hadn’t thought about the challenges feeding the AI cartridges will have to give that some thought. 35 Whelan is interesting as well. I will see what Tradex has to offer. I would like to be able to say that I am going to do this myself..but I know my limitations and will need a gunsmith to put this all to together-very interested in the process and everything that goes into it and I know my limitations. My plan is to take this rifle on a Yukon trip I am closing the details on shortly where I could have a chance at a grizzly however the primary goal would be moose.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
My own choice made in mid 1980's for more punch than a 30-06 was to go to 338 Win Mag - was also a Win Model 70, so same rifle as I had been using for deer since 1976. I don't think there is much discussion about whether or not truly more "punch", but I found the recoil was something to be learned to work with - not intolerable, but was real and it requires a bit more accommodation. As above, in 2013, I bought a 9.3x62. With 250 grain Accubonds and Varget powder, pretty much same numbers (2,650 fps) on the chronograph as 250 grain from 338 Win Mag factory ammo. I use Ramshot Big Game for the 286 grain Partition - as per John Barsness's pressure tested loads, I get comfortably past 2,450 fps with them. I settled on some real good loads using 225 Accubonds for the 338 Win Mag and decided that the 9.3x62 would be fine if more than that is needed, plus the Mauser has a few more in the magazine should that count for anything. All good fun!
By the way - I do not think, in any way, that you would be "under gunned" with 200 grain Partitions in your 30-06. Some would think 180's, if you feel that you might have to "reach" a bit, but, from Nosler #7 tables, a 200 Partition started at 2,600 fps has virtually same velocity at 600 yards (1,765 fps), as does a 180 Partition started at 2,800 (1,781 fps). Bullet placement, penetration and bullet expansion will take your game. Most everything else is for telling your friends about...
By the way - I do not think, in any way, that you would be "under gunned" with 200 grain Partitions in your 30-06. Some would think 180's, if you feel that you might have to "reach" a bit, but, from Nosler #7 tables, a 200 Partition started at 2,600 fps has virtually same velocity at 600 yards (1,765 fps), as does a 180 Partition started at 2,800 (1,781 fps). Bullet placement, penetration and bullet expansion will take your game. Most everything else is for telling your friends about...
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Yep, that 200 gr Partition at almost 2700 fps in the 8X57 is quite the combination. Friend of mine has a Husqvarna Featherweigjht that just clobbers moose and bear. Only problem is that "little" rifle belts him more than enough to get his attention.
Ted
- Location
- Brockville, ON
Here's my $0.02... if weight was a concern, then I would maybe use a Husky 1600 action (or just buy a Kimber haha). Since weight isn't a concern, I'd start with a Zastava M98 action from Tradex. I would get bottom metal from Tradex and a TriggerTech replacement trigger from there as well. If Tradex is out of those then they can be had elsewhere (on sale right now with a site sponsor I think).
338/06 or 35 Whelan would be good choices since you're hoping for more punch than your 30-06 rifle. For a stock, I would fit a Wildcat Composites stock to it. They are very light and strong, but you could add some weight in the butt if you like.
I also like a Mauser action with wood and blueing haha. But since you're wanting to protect the metal more, then cerakote to your heart's desire! Traditional looking with "gun blue" black, SS looking with Tungsten, or unique looking with OD green, whatever you like! You could definitely do the stock fitting yourself, and trigger install. Fitting the barrel and probably cerakote would be the main things you'd need a Smith for.
Sounds like a fun project, enjoy!
338/06 or 35 Whelan would be good choices since you're hoping for more punch than your 30-06 rifle. For a stock, I would fit a Wildcat Composites stock to it. They are very light and strong, but you could add some weight in the butt if you like.
I also like a Mauser action with wood and blueing haha. But since you're wanting to protect the metal more, then cerakote to your heart's desire! Traditional looking with "gun blue" black, SS looking with Tungsten, or unique looking with OD green, whatever you like! You could definitely do the stock fitting yourself, and trigger install. Fitting the barrel and probably cerakote would be the main things you'd need a Smith for.
Sounds like a fun project, enjoy!
