MDT chassis for 10/22 by DLASK

I've been looking at chassis options for my TUF-22 for a couple months and did some Google research on that one. I haven't used it though. I decided against it because there are no side Mlok slots and I'm not a big fan of the buffer tube stock on a rifle that doesn't need a buffer tube, especially on an angle that looks a bit funny. The rear hold down block looks like a fantastic feature though; I wish I could get that on a chassis more like the LSS-XL Gen 2.

There's a 10/22 inlet for the Oryx now that is a frontrunner for me, although still no side Mlok for a sling QD cup. There's also the 10/22 inlet for the KRG Bravo but I don't think they've trickled into Canada yet.
 
I've been looking at chassis options for my TUF-22 for a couple months and did some Google research on that one. I haven't used it though. I decided against it because there are no side Mlok slots and I'm not a big fan of the buffer tube stock on a rifle that doesn't need a buffer tube, especially on an angle that looks a bit funny. The rear hold down block looks like a fantastic feature though; I wish I could get that on a chassis more like the LSS-XL Gen 2.

There's a 10/22 inlet for the Oryx now that is a frontrunner for me, although still no side Mlok for a sling QD cup. There's also the 10/22 inlet for the KRG Bravo but I don't think they've trickled into Canada yet.

MDT sells M-LOK picatinny rails that have built in QD cups. This is an option on the Oryx if you are already planning on running a bipod that connectes to picatinny. Another option is to hack the side panels to add a QD cup there.
 
I'd be all over that if they made it with a straight stock adaptor instead of the angled. It just doesn't look right being angled.
Sort of agree. Straight still wouldn't be my favourite looking chassis, but it'd be better.
MDT sells M-LOK picatinny rails that have built in QD cups. This is an option on the Oryx if you are already planning on running a bipod that connectes to picatinny. Another option is to hack the side panels to add a QD cup there.
I'm thinking about trying to drill a side panel to JB weld a QD cup to the side. Not sure if I'll have enough thickness in the plastic though and I wouldn't want to drill out the aluminum underneath. I have used lots of the Mlok QD cup add ons and they're OK, but I really prefer it being on the side (9 or 3 O'clock) rather than the bottom.
wait do you mean that the stock itself will be angled as well? Thought it was just the machining.

Yeah, the buffer tube is angled compared to the top line of the chassis. I realize it's for a purpose, but it still looks a little bit like it got bent to me.
 
Yeah, the buffer tube is angled compared to the top line of the chassis. I realize it's for a purpose, but it still looks a little bit like it got bent to me.[/QUOTE]


Yeash... nevermind then. I share your view.
 
I'm thinking about trying to drill a side panel to JB weld a QD cup to the side. Not sure if I'll have enough thickness in the plastic though and I wouldn't want to drill out the aluminum underneath. I have used lots of the Mlok QD cup add ons and they're OK, but I really prefer it being on the side (9 or 3 O'clock) rather than the bottom.

Another option is to drill and tap a hole into the side of the chassis to mount a Magpul Type 1 Sling Mount Kit (QD cup) using a machine screw. I think you'd want it connected to the metal with a screw though as I doubt JB weld would hold under heavy tension.
 
Another option is to drill and tap a hole into the side of the chassis to mount a Magpul Type 1 Sling Mount Kit (QD cup) using a machine screw. I think you'd want it connected to the metal with a screw though as I doubt JB weld would hold under heavy tension.
Screwing a threaded QD cup into the aluminum is certainly a good idea... but also a bit more permanent/intimidating. I'd have to see the chassis and get some measurements to decide how it should be done. JB Weld holds great as long as prep and application are done well though. I've used it on a Savage Accustock that was slung over my back for a lot of miles.
Stock is angled for a reason, if it was straight, you eye box on the scope would be impossibly low.


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Nice rifle. I can't help but think a straight buffer tube and a buttstock without a cheek riser would put your cheek weld in exactly the same place, though.
 
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I have that chassis and as well and its great. A couple of points:

- yes it looks funny with the angled tube but as said this is FOR FUNCTION and it works

- it looks a bit weird on pictures but looks good IRL, if looks matter...

- it is to my knowledge the only 1022 stock that has a second mounting point on the back of the reciver. yes you want that because of the ####ty 1022 mounting system. I got it for that reason alone


I highly recommend it
 
it is to my knowledge the only 1022 stock that has a second mounting point on the back of the reciver. yes you want that because of the ####ty 1022 mounting system. I got it for that reason alone

The Oryx 10/22 chassis has a clamping mechanism at the rear of the receiver too. Not sure if it's the same as on the Dlask model though.
 
Apparently the initial design was straight, they made the decision to angle it... irons maybe? Dunno but I did a fair bit of reading and talked to Leigh at dlask quite a bit before committing to the build. I have absolutely 0 complaints about the quality of the build or the service.

I’ve seen one of the Ivan chassis, it’s well done but I’m not sure they can be legally imported.
AZ armouries have the pmaca available but never seem to have the model I want and pmaca seems to not produce inventory with any regularity.
 
The Oryx 10/22 chassis has a clamping mechanism at the rear of the receiver too. Not sure if it's the same as on the Dlask model though.

with a TUF22 receiver, which you should have anyways for many reasons, it will have another screw point
 
- it is to my knowledge the only 1022 stock that has a second mounting point on the back of the reciver. yes you want that because of the ####ty 1022 mounting system. I got it for that reason alone


I highly recommend it
That feature is beautiful and I wish that rear hold down block was available for other chassis'. Unfortunately it only works with Dlask receivers (which I have so isn't really a problem for me, other than chassis companies will probably never adopt it). There are lots of other options that have some sort of rear hold down clamping mechanism, but the only one that is possibly as good as Dlask's is the system KIDD uses on their chassis. I haven't seen one in Canada though, and they'd probably be a lot more expensive.
The Oryx 10/22 chassis has a clamping mechanism at the rear of the receiver too. Not sure if it's the same as on the Dlask model though.
Not the same as Dlask (or as good IMO), but should work with any 10/22 receiver so it's a little more universal.
 
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