Lee Enfield Stock Crack

M

M1911

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Hello,
I’ve recently acquired a Savage No4 Mk1*. It’s overall in very good shape with the exception of a couple cracks on the same location on either side of the forend at the rear as seen below:

https://imgur.com/a/q5sNoPr

I’ve since had the cracks professionally repaired. However my question is, if I keep shooting will the cracks just start to open up again? Are the cracks in this location a result of some way the rifle is setup? Improper bedding, screw too tight, etc.

This is a quite a bummer as I wanted to shoot this rifle a lot but don’t want to damage it further.

Thanks
 
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can14 said:
Replace the for end with a new ex military one.
Click to expand...

This would likely be the easiest solution, however, finding a reasonably priced Savage walnut fore end in the same condition as the one on your rifle, might be difficult.

If that were my rifle, I would repair the cracks with a very thin application of epoxy glue. Then, repair the ways (bedding) if necessary.

The reason those cracks are there, is that "someone" didn't take it off the rifle properly.
 
bearhunter said:
This would likely be the easiest solution, however, finding a reasonably priced Savage walnut fore end in the same condition as the one on your rifle, might be difficult.

If that were my rifle, I would repair the cracks with a very thin application of epoxy glue. Then, repair the ways (bedding) if necessary.

The reason those cracks are there, is that "someone" didn't take it off the rifle properly.
Click to expand...

The cracks have been glued. So you think the previous owner disassembled it incorrectly?

I’ve tried taking it out of the stock, and after removing the barrel bands, main screw and trigger assembly I can’t get it to budge without undue force.
 
Probably you just discovered how the cracks occurred. A No. 4 forearm must stay parallel with the barrel when removed and re-installed; pressure to remove it is downward at the rear end, usually on both sides of the receiver at the same time - do not pry against the tip of the fore end. It does not "hinge off" like a single shot shotgun; it slides off by going straight down away from receiver and barrel. Look up on internet to find out what "the draws" are - the wrist of the receiver at the rear has a slope, and the draws have a slope - the rear end of the No. 4 has matching inletting that slides up into those two slopes and should fit tightly. Prying down on the fore end tip will round out or break off the draws inletting, cracking or breaking out the rear of the fore arm.
 
M1911 said:
The cracks have been glued. So you think the previous owner disassembled it incorrectly?

I’ve tried taking it out of the stock, and after removing the barrel bands, main screw and trigger assembly I can’t get it to budge without undue force.
Click to expand...

If the forend is that snug it may be that the fit at the draws is very good. If you want to remove it take an 8" piece of soft (pine) 2x4 and cut a U shape that fits over the receiver and allows you to push downward on both sides of the rear of the forend. Tap it carefully off. Frankly if it's tight and the cracks have been glued probably best to leave it alone. There aren't a lot of LE's left out there that don't have some kind of problem with the wood. Even really bad examples can be fixed with patience. The forend isn't really under a great deal of stress as the 2-part stock sees most of that transmitted into the buttstock through the socket. The forend's main function (aside from providing something to hold) is to clamp on to the barreled action in a way that works with the barrel to yield accuracy.

milsurpo
 
milsurpo said:
If the forend is that snug it may be that the fit at the draws is very good. If you want to remove it take an 8" piece of soft (pine) 2x4 and cut a U shape that fits over the receiver and allows you to push downward on both sides of the rear of the forend. Tap it carefully off. Frankly if it's tight and the cracks have been glued probably best to leave it alone. There aren't a lot of LE's left out there that don't have some kind of problem with the wood. Even really bad examples can be fixed with patience. The forend isn't really under a great deal of stress as the 2-part stock sees most of that transmitted into the buttstock through the socket. The forend's main function (aside from providing something to hold) is to clamp on to the barreled action in a way that works with the barrel to yield accuracy.

milsurpo
Click to expand...
This is something else I was wondering about - if that area of the forend is under stress when firing. If you’re saying it’s not I may just leave it as is as for now. Cheers
 
The fitting of a Lee Enfield fore arm to get an accurate rifle is getting close to voodoo practices. Very fussy to get correct - tight at draws and wrist, shimmed at rear of receiver to create some up pressure at the very front end, complete clearance (like .020") from chamber area to near the front end. It is not a "simple" bolt together job. If you have a Mk.1 or Mk.1*, the trigger pull is affected by the stock fit - that trigger is attached to the trigger guard, not the receiver. And the main screw bushing, and so on...
 
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Good advices here for sure. Epoxy - quality epoxy - is the way to go.

Removing a tight forend requires that you tap on each side of the receiver, alternating, with something like a dead-blow hammer, or other soft-faced hitting device. (I suggest not using a kitten). The forend should eventually come off.

Then you inspect the crack at the back of the forend. Was it caused by a protruding buttstock bolt, which often is reinstalled without its spring washer, thus protruding too much and pushing on the back face of the forend? (cracking it)

Then, inspect the recoil lugs. If the forend is really tight on the receiver, then there's a chance they are ok and well adjusted. Most of the Lee Enfields I see here though, have "loose" fit and the forend can consequently, sort of, move fore and aft, which isn't advisable. I've used shims to cure small gaps, or repaired (carve out and replace) lugs on hopeless cases.

If you repair a crack at the back, also check if the U-shaped brace, held in place with a brass rod, is tight. If it's wiggling, then the crack may stay glued for a while, but compressing that brace laterally will help with keeping the repair stable, probably.

That's the short story, but right now I have to go serve our chilli to my family, it's dinner time! :)

Lou
 
Lou hit the nail on the head, exactly what I was going to say.
Remove the buttstock first. Make sure there is a spring washer on the buttstock bolt. It must be there or the tip of the bolt will hit the forend and crack it.

See if with the buttstock off, the forend is easier to remove?


louthepou said:
Good advices here for sure. Epoxy - quality epoxy - is the way to go.

Removing a tight forend requires that you tap on each side of the receiver, alternating, with something like a dead-blow hammer, or other soft-faced hitting device. (I suggest not using a kitten). The forend should eventually come off.

Then you inspect the crack at the back of the forend. Was it caused by a protruding buttstock bolt, which often is reinstalled without its spring washer, thus protruding too much and pushing on the back face of the forend? (cracking it)

Then, inspect the recoil lugs. If the forend is really tight on the receiver, then there's a chance they are ok and well adjusted. Most of the Lee Enfields I see here though, have "loose" fit and the forend can consequently, sort of, move fore and aft, which isn't advisable. I've used shims to cure small gaps, or repaired (carve out and replace) lugs on hopeless cases.

If you repair a crack at the back, also check if the U-shaped brace, held in place with a brass rod, is tight. If it's wiggling, then the crack may stay glued for a while, but compressing that brace laterally will help with keeping the repair stable, probably.

That's the short story, but right now I have to go serve our chilli to my family, it's dinner time! :)

Lou
Click to expand...
 
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