Tips for buying Browning BAR MK1

renovatio

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Hi,

I'm about to buy a Browning BAR mk1 made in 1967 in 30.06 for a seller in my town.

I would like to have your tips on what to check before buying.

What I have found so far, after a first contact with the seller:

1- 400$
2- Blueing is almost completely gone on some parts (tip of canon, sides of receiver)
3- Wood does not seem cracked, but has about 1in thick of varnish that looks like it was reapplied many times in its life.
4- Chamber and mechanism seemed somewhat clean, but quite greasy. Lot of oil everywhere.
5- Current owner says the guy that sold it to him said it jammed.
6- Some rust around where the rails where screwed to the gun.
7- No scope included.

I'm a total noob, so any advice on what to check would be apreciated.

Thanks,
 
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For $400, she "may" be brought back. All depends on condition of bore and gas system. Not a project for a BAR noob.

For Mk1's, check for any fore and aft play of the trigger group with the floorplate open. If you feel any, most likely the buttstock was replaced without fitting or has minor cracks caused by play in the TG. Look closely where the stock meets the receiver. Another cause of the play is the TG was assembled incorrectly at one point where the buttstock bolt plate inside the receiver was not aligned properly and has worn the matching slot in the TG.

If it jams, can be a number of things. May just need a good cleaning but my bet its got a worn out action spring and most likely overdue buffer. Easy diagnosis is jamming in cold weather ie) freezing rain. Can be easily changed out. If the problem lies in the gas system, I doubt the piston is worn but the gas regulator hole may be worn out and bleeding off too much gas. Again this part may be found or welded and redrilled to the correct diameter for that specific caliber. Check to see if the bolt goes all the way into battery. If it does not, its got issues with the timing latch which DOES develope a burr in time from firing and can prevent it from going into battery or worst break the timing latch. Another cause can be a bad or wrong magazine. If it was jamming with a scope, the base screws may have been too long and causing friction on the bolt sleeve which causes jams.These are the usual suspects

For $400 its a gamble, especially knowing it jams. Now the project can be relatively easy to fix if you know what you are doing. Cosmetics can always be cleaned and reblued or cerakoted. All in, you are better off waiting for the next WTS ad. For $6-800, you will probably find a good working '67 BAR that is in pretty good condition.
 
.... Check to see if the bolt goes all the way into battery. If it does not, its got issues with the timing latch which DOES develope a burr in time from firing and can prevent it from going into battery or worst break the timing latch....
This is the Achilles Heal of the rifle, along with the timing latch pin. Difficult to source as they are normal wear parts and are obsolete.
Buying this is going to be a crap-shoot, whether it's rebuildable or a parts donor.
 
There is a old you tube channel....Down East Gun werks....in Maine. Old marine that tinkered in gunsmithing. Excellent takedown and put together video.

Sounds to me like it needs a cleaning from excess oil plugging the gas system. They are a really simple and robust design, not much to go wrong. When its degreased, it only needs a film of light oil.

Great rifles. I've owned six, currently have two. Perhaps a bit heavier than a bolt, but well worth the trade off. Everyone of mine has been a MOA shooter, some much better.
 
For $400, she "may" be brought back. All depends on condition of bore and gas system. Not a project for a BAR noob.

For Mk1's, check for any fore and aft play of the trigger group with the floorplate open. If you feel any, most likely the buttstock was replaced without fitting or has minor cracks caused by play in the TG. Look closely where the stock meets the receiver. Another cause of the play is the TG was assembled incorrectly at one point where the buttstock bolt plate inside the receiver was not aligned properly and has worn the matching slot in the TG.

If it jams, can be a number of things. May just need a good cleaning but my bet its got a worn out action spring and most likely overdue buffer. Easy diagnosis is jamming in cold weather ie) freezing rain. Can be easily changed out. If the problem lies in the gas system, I doubt the piston is worn but the gas regulator hole may be worn out and bleeding off too much gas. Again this part may be found or welded and redrilled to the correct diameter for that specific caliber. Check to see if the bolt goes all the way into battery. If it does not, its got issues with the timing latch which DOES develope a burr in time from firing and can prevent it from going into battery or worst break the timing latch. Another cause can be a bad or wrong magazine. If it was jamming with a scope, the base screws may have been too long and causing friction on the bolt sleeve which causes jams.These are the usual suspects

For $400 its a gamble, especially knowing it jams. Now the project can be relatively easy to fix if you know what you are doing. Cosmetics can always be cleaned and reblued or cerakoted. All in, you are better off waiting for the next WTS ad. For $6-800, you will probably find a good working '67 BAR that is in pretty good condition.


Will check all that when going to look at it next time. Some technical elements are unknown to me, I'll read about them.

Ill try to take a look at the timing latch. I have made a quick search for replacements on the internet and they seem quite rare.

Thanks for all the cues, it's quire useful.
 
This is the Achilles Heal of the rifle, along with the timing latch pin. Difficult to source as they are normal wear parts and are obsolete.
Buying this is going to be a crap-shoot, whether it's rebuildable or a parts donor.

Conclusion, it is worth it to buy it, but unsure if i'm going to revive it or I will have to sell it for parts? Is that what you mean?
 
There is a old you tube channel....Down East Gun werks....in Maine. Old marine that tinkered in gunsmithing. Excellent takedown and put together video.

Sounds to me like it needs a cleaning from excess oil plugging the gas system. They are a really simple and robust design, not much to go wrong. When its degreased, it only needs a film of light oil.

Great rifles. I've owned six, currently have two. Perhaps a bit heavier than a bolt, but well worth the trade off. Everyone of mine has been a MOA shooter, some much better.

That's encouraging.
 
There is also another interesting opportunity, a Wincherster 70 XTR at 400$ also, in another shop nearby. But that Win 70 is mint or near mint, I've seen the pictures.

My choice is basically this :

1- 400$ for a BAR demanding a lot of work
2- 400$ for a Win70 no work needed, but it's not a BAR

Will meditate on my options tonight.
 
There is also another interesting opportunity, a Wincherster 70 XTR at 400$ also, in another shop nearby. But that Win 70 is mint or near mint, I've seen the pictures.

My choice is basically this :

1- 400$ for a BAR demanding a lot of work
2- 400$ for a Win70 no work needed, but it's not a BAR

Will meditate on my options tonight.

I'd not give it a second thought and go with the M70. Forget about the BAR project gun.
 
I have bought the Winchester 70. Did not want the hassle.
Also, I was told that semi-autos seem to have problems in the cold. I will hunt iften in the cold. I didnt want to take that chance.

Nice pick up that Winny of yours...
My '70's BAR has never given me any issues...and all I hunt is in the cold....
Enjoy your fine Winchester! and good luck with your hunt!
View attachment 431589
 
Nice pick up that Winny of yours...
My '70's BAR has never given me any issues...and all I hunt is in the cold....
Enjoy your fine Winchester! and good luck with your hunt!
View attachment 431589

Beautiful BAR you got there. I have several BARs and the only one that gave me troubles in cold weather was a MK1 type 2 with worn spring. She went at least 2000 minimum rounds before troubles began. Replaced spring and buffer and she was kicking again.
 
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