Best ever Ruger 1022 Carbine?

RifleDude

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I’ve had my Ruger 1022 carbine for about 40 years now and it’s one of those firearms I’ll never sell. I’ve used it mostly for plinking but for the last couple of years it has been my go-to rifle for ORPS matches (Factory class). Apart from some upgrades, it’s still basically a factory stock rifle. I’ve put a picatinny rail on top to mount a scope and also a short picatinny rail on the bottom of the forend to mount a QD bipod mount. The rifle still has the factory trigger but I did polish the sear to improve it a little. I modified the bolt release so I can release the bolt by just pulling the bolt back. I replaced the factory mag release with an extended mag release for easier mag changes. I’ve found that putting a shim under the barrel at the forend improved accuracy somewhat as well as tensioning the action screw to 10in/lb. The action screw tensioning was a result of an experiment I did after seeing a YouTube video. This was the result:

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I’ve shot many types of .22 brands through this rifle. For some reason it really liked the old Winchester T-22 ammo. This is no longer available. Currently, I use CCI Blazer or CCI Standard for practicing and Eley Club for matches. As you can see, the CCI Standard is pretty good but does often have one or two flyers in the group. The Eley Club ammo does not exhibit this. All groups are 5-shot groups fired from the bipod and rear rest at 50y.

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ORPS matches are held at 25y to 100y and this is probably as far as I will shoot this rifle. Being a semi-auto rifle has its advantage for these matches for quick follow up shots. Also, having a flush magazine works great when having to move the rifle to different shooting positions quickly. There’s no protruding stick mag to get snagged on your barricade. I’ve put a Vortex Diamondback scope on this rifle. This scope has a zoom from 4-16X and parallax can be adjusted down to 20y. Having a QD bipod on the front also works great when having to change shooting positions on different types of barricades. Sometimes a bag is best and other times the bipod is best. Anyway, I hope this will help some of you that are thinking of getting into ORPS shooting. One caveat though is that I think I lucked out with an exceptionally accurate Ruger 1022 Carbine. If I had to buy one now, I would look into some of the custom 1022 clones offered by DLASK rather than a stock Ruger.
 
Hi,
That's some great shooting.

And I admire your attention to detail, in measuring how much pressure the actions screws need for best accuracy.

Cheers,
Neil
 
I too have a 10-22 that I bought in late 1970's / early 1980's. Being "cheap" old guy, had taken by a few ideas on the net - so I looked at the stock Ruger 10-22 - one screw near front to pull it into the stock inletting. Not my idea at all - but started using layers of aluminum tape (used for sealing heat ducts) on each side of the receiver - at the back, below the stock line - idea was to prevent the receiver from swinging left / right at rear end when it fired and cycled - I think 7 layers on one side and 6 layers on other side - snug sliding fit, now. At same time, did the electrician's black vinyl tape around the barrel within about 1" of fore arm tip in the factory stock - kept removing layers until another snug fit into the barrel channel - then worked away at the underside of the barrel band and completely freed it from any contact with the barrel. I installed the Williams Fire Sight front and rear to get a "practice" plinker to learn to use aperture sights - absolutely as tight of 25 yard groups, or better, with cheap Win 555 ammo as I was getting before with 4X and 6X scopes. So I am very pleased with that one!!! I like cheap!!
 
Curious why you mounted your scope so high?

The center of the scope is about 2.5" above the center of the bore which, admittedly is higher than normal, about the same as for scopes mounted on AR15s. At the time, I could only find a 1022 picatinny mount that was as long as the action. The scope needed to be positioned farther forward for proper eye relief so I installed an offset mount I had in my parts bin. All together that determined the total scope height. As you can see, I used a strap on cheek piece with a bit of foam underneath to get a proper cheek weld. For me, it works out well, especially for shooting standing unsupported.
 
How do you sort them out ?
Weight ?

Thanx

Sorting by weight. rim thickness, bullet runout, and base of the rim to the bullet ogive are / were popular in the past. Opinions on it's effectiveness vary greatly. Here's an article from 2013.

ht tp://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2013/02/g3-rimfire-rim-thickness-tool-and-base-to-ogive-length-gauge/


There are numerous threads on rimfirecentral, probably here as well.

The fellows I shoot rimfire silhouette with say if you feel the need to sort your cartridges, it would be more productive use of time to buy a more expensive/consistent ammo and practice instead of sorting. A few shoot the CCI SV on practice nights and their better stuff for the matches. I've had good luck with CCI SV and used it for almost 25 years. Because I now seldom make the time to practice and also have two daughters who enjoy silhouette and want to shoot more often, I find it a good value for the money.
 
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