Case lube question

Winchester-1897 said:
I use a lube pad and roll the cases through a minimal amount of lube.
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This is about the easiest method.

Any good commercial case lube will work well. I usually thin them down a bit, with rubbing alcohol or a bit of varsol. Then wipe them off, after sizing.

If you don't want to put out $25 for a commercially made pad, just tack a piece of folded, absorbent cloth to a board and apply the lube to the cloth. Cover it with Saran Wrap when you're finished so it won't dry out or get covered with grit.
 
old303 said:
Pro tip: make sure you have clearance from Her Upstairs before trying the shaking-brass-in-a-bucket trick. Apparently it's the loudest din I've ever made at the reloading bench.
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I tell my wife every time I am going to start the Air Compressor; she claims it vibrates the whole house LOL.
 
45C said:
I use Lanolin/ isopropyl mixture.
I put 30 cases in a butter container, giving a couple of shots of the mixture,while swishing the container around.
Haven't had a stuck case since.
Thousands of cases,308,223,7 rm,6.5 CM
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I have great success using the lanolin mixture as well. The application is slightly different though.IMG_20201204_101330.jpg

The racks pivot to allow very even coverage. I just hold a piece of cardboard behind to catch any overspray. There is a very fine mist from the alcohol spray bottle, just shake before use.
 

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Lubing the body of the case made ALL of the difference - lesson learned! I ran 281 .270 Win cases through my press last night, using the Lee lube that came in the kit and applying it with my finger. I'll definitely try some of these other methods that you guys mentioned for next time.

Man, I sure found it relaxing: sitting out in the garage, listening to the radio, and resizing cases.

Thanks again for everyone who offered advice. I'm so glad that I joined this community!

Adam
 
I'm only a couple a hundred a year guy but been using the same 2oz rcbs lube and the same pad for almost 40 years. Just a drop or 2 a year. I have a drop or 2 of whiskey but the bottle dosent last as long? More research is needed.
 
MRP said:
I'm only a couple a hundred a year guy but been using the same 2oz rcbs lube and the same pad for almost 40 years. Just a drop or 2 a year. I have a drop or 2 of whiskey but the bottle doesn't last as long? More research is needed.
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I also have the same pad and I actually bought a spare bottle of RCBS case lube when I started 40 years ago and I still have two part bottles of lube kicking around. But at a couple of hundred rifle cases a year I should be good. My whiskey bottle though went empty 20 years ago.
 
While I like Imperial Sizing Wax, it doesn't really matter which lube you use on the outside of your cases, but avoid getting it on the outside the neck or shoulder of the case to avoid grease dents. The benefit of Imperial Sizing Wax is that the cases can be just wiped dry with a paper towel, where other lubricants need to be cleaned with a solvent or soap and water. The case neck and inside the case mouth is another matter, and for this I prefer Imperial Dry Neck Lube. The "dry" part is the key here, and dipping the case neck into the dry lube then tapping the case to ensure excess falls out ensures the neck is lubed inside and out. When you open the container, do so carefully, this stuff extremely fine, with a consistency like flour only black, and will go everywhere if you spill it. The benefit here is that if the cases are not cleaned, powder won't stick to the case mouth when you get to the loading stage of the process.
 
Boomer said:
While I like Imperial Sizing Wax, it doesn't really matter which lube you use on the outside of your cases, but avoid getting it on the outside the neck or shoulder of the case to avoid grease dents. The benefit of Imperial Sizing Wax is that the cases can be just wiped dry with a paper towel, where other lubricants need to be cleaned with a solvent or soap and water. The case neck and inside the case mouth is another matter, and for this I prefer Imperial Dry Neck Lube. The "dry" part is the key here, and dipping the case neck into the dry lube then tapping the case to ensure excess falls out ensures the neck is lubed inside and out. When you open the container, do so carefully, this stuff extremely fine, with a consistency like flour only black, and will go everywhere if you spill it. The benefit here is that if the cases are not cleaned, powder won't stick to the case mouth when you get to the loading stage of the process.
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Boomer, you and I must have gone to the same school, lol. Your procedure is a mirror image of mine.
Only possible difference is I put my dry lube in a small pill container with a quantity of #8 shot to dip
my case necks in. Less chance of a "black" mess that way. Dave.
 
Your dies are new and dry so any bare spot is sticking. Gander's method works very well. I use that or if i'm only doing smaller quantity i just rub a thin film on with my finger. I don't lube the shoulders except for a thin film on the first few if i'm doing it by hand. A little goes a long way, and be sure to get a bit inside the case mouth.
 
I've tried a bunch over the years. For bulk I use ganderite's method of Lee lube swirled in a tub. Nothing is faster to lube hundreds of cases than tumble lubing them with whatever lube you prefer. I also love Imperial sizing wax and their dry neck lube. Great for bigger cases and reforming. A big surprise was Hornady's #050009 case sizing lube. The msds states it's simply vegetable oil. Lubricity is excellent and it prevents rust on dies. It's hard to quantify but it probably reduces sizing effort over Lee lube by 30-50%. Definitely a noticeable difference. It cleans up almost as easy as Lee lube. Lee is my preference most times however since a quick trip through the tumbler takes the lube off quick.
 
I've only been reloading since about 1970, and started off with a sticky roll pad with lube. After I discovered Lee sizing lube, I've never looked back. Only a wee bit is needed and it can be used after it dries on the case, although I do mine one at a time, so I can't say I've tried it. I love the stuff partly because it doesn't have oil or grease in it so I can wipe my fingers on my pants! :p
 
I do a lot reloading i'm an old guy 74
been loading since 1964
here is how i do it.
I deprime 1st with a lee depriming die.
Then i wet tumble them, [1 hour], with soap and 1/2 teaspoon of lemi shine.
Your cases will come out clean inside and out and the primer pocket will be cleaned..
And you will not get the screech.
When you pull your case out of the full lenght resizing die
if you don't have a tumbler, put a brass rifle brush on an electric drill and pass it throught the case mouth a few times.
This will really make a difference.
I use rcbs liquid lube on a pad to lube the body of the brass,
I put very little or no lube on the case neck
My 2 cents worth take care and be safe
 
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billbmcleod said:
You mean that gold coloured stuff that looked like corn syrup and came in a zip top can that was around in the 60's?
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Yes,it comes in plastic bottles nowadays, works like a charm on the lube pad.
Also made a little tool, wooden handle, nail and a pipe cleaner wrapped around the nail to lubricate the inside of the necks also with STP, way nicer than powdered graphite which can be pretty messy.
The cases will be greasy but they go in the FA tumbler and come out like new after 45 min tumbling.
I also found that "Tide" laundry detergent works better than "Dawn".
 
I use the 99% isopropyl alcohol and Lanolin Oil from health store. 1 full bottle of alcohol to half bottle of lanolin. Spray on the brass and let it evaporate for 30-45 second before resizing. I've loaded thousands without a single hiccup. And super cheap.
 
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