Powder Coating
- Thread starter yomomma
- Start date
Need some help / advice on doing this (better). First time doing this.
Read this one :
h t t p s ://www.snipercountry.com/powder-coating-bullets/
Got all the gear needed, used the following projectiles :
Wolf 38 Special (.357) 158gr RNFP Projectiles : which apparently have these specs : 92% lead - 6% Antimony - 2% Tin
Used this Powder :
TOOL BLUE (PC1196) from Emerald Coatings
Result : kind of ok, but not an even coating. Some came out better than others, but they look a bit patchy.
I was going easy on the amount of powder, as I didn't want to overdo it and put too thick a layer onto the projectiles.
Cooked them at 400F for 20 minutes, let them cool a couple, and then took 'em out. That worked fine.
Would like to get that nice even coating I have seen others achieve.
Let me have your suggestions / tips for getting a better result.
Read this one :
h t t p s ://www.snipercountry.com/powder-coating-bullets/
Got all the gear needed, used the following projectiles :
Wolf 38 Special (.357) 158gr RNFP Projectiles : which apparently have these specs : 92% lead - 6% Antimony - 2% Tin
Used this Powder :
TOOL BLUE (PC1196) from Emerald Coatings
Result : kind of ok, but not an even coating. Some came out better than others, but they look a bit patchy.
I was going easy on the amount of powder, as I didn't want to overdo it and put too thick a layer onto the projectiles.
Cooked them at 400F for 20 minutes, let them cool a couple, and then took 'em out. That worked fine.
Would like to get that nice even coating I have seen others achieve.
Let me have your suggestions / tips for getting a better result.
There is no magic bullet. One needs to experiment a bit. If you read through the many threads you will find quite a variation on how people powder coat. Some use BBs , others dont't. Some preheat the bullets, some don't.
One thing close to a sure fire approach is to buy a powder coating gun.
Maybe that'll be it.
I'll try giving the bullets a wipe down first and then ziplock bag them before putting them into the plastic container. Maybe that will help to generate more static.
If that doesn't work, gun it is.
Always a possibility depending on how the application was done, but highly unlikely
I've been trying hi-tek super coat coating recently and still curious about powder coating seems a bit easier... my main concern is barrel wear which is why I went with the hi tek polymer coating. When looking at the composition of powders for powder they contain things like titanium dioxide, iron oxide, Aluminum, limestone etc used as part of the colorant... now I did take high school chemistry. But maybe someone with higher level of knowledge could explain if shooting a bullet coated with these various "metals" will damage anything. I keep telling myself it's paint but there is conflicting info online apparently some guy burnt out a 300 black out barrel after firing 6000 powder coated bullets thru it... others are reporting firing 100k of pistol bullet with no wear to the barrel.
If negatives were so prevalent you would certainly hear a lot more about it. From what I have read there are very few people who have had issues with powder coating.
It wouldn't be as popular if guns were wearing prematurely.
My thoughts
Picked up a 1 lbs of tool blue from emerald coatings, less then an hour I had professional coated bullets that passed the 10lbs sledge smash test on both coats. I'm going to have to try hi tek on freshly cast because I have a feeling my hi tek coatings where contaminated with something they won't pass the smash test.
Powder Coating Systems on sale
The powder coating system sold by Canada’s Harbour Freight (out of Winnipeg, initials PA) is on sale at your local outlet for $149.99 Cdn. I have not yet tried it out, will be doing so shortly. I will attempt to update this post at that time. I have not had a lot of success with the plastic tub and static method (otherwise known as shake ‘n bake) so I devised a more ambitious plan!
Disclaimer, Mods: I am in no way afilliated these stores. Just an ‘ole guy playing with powder coating and delighted to find a cheap system to play with and wishing to pass on my good fortune. Please move or delete as required.
The powder coating system sold by Canada’s Harbour Freight (out of Winnipeg, initials PA) is on sale at your local outlet for $149.99 Cdn. I have not yet tried it out, will be doing so shortly. I will attempt to update this post at that time. I have not had a lot of success with the plastic tub and static method (otherwise known as shake ‘n bake) so I devised a more ambitious plan!
Disclaimer, Mods: I am in no way afilliated these stores. Just an ‘ole guy playing with powder coating and delighted to find a cheap system to play with and wishing to pass on my good fortune. Please move or delete as required.
infideleggwelder
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
I got one last ime it was on sale. Works pretty good when you learn how to use it.
PA powder passed the sledge test
PA powder passed the sledge test
“Sledge test” ???
Well, the electrostatic powder sprayer seems to work. I made a little 35 bullet jig from .44 special brass riveted to an aluminum plate so I could stand my .45 acp bullets in them nose down. Powder spray at about 15 psi and 10 minutes in the oven at 400 C. The stand and brass got a beautiful paint job (probably from multiple coats!) but not so on the bullets. Uneven coverage. I have to do another casting and will probably set up a PID controller for the oven.
Has anyone tried installing a PID in a toaster oven? I have PID’s on my master caster, shot-maker and Lee pot. I mounted the sensor at the back of a newly acquired medium size toaster oven (thank you Salvation Army Thrift Shop!) and fired it up with my lead casting thermometer on the tray. 200 deg F difference! There are not too many places to mount the sensor conveniently. Any advice as to what position to put the sensor?
Solved! I replaced the temperature sensor (thermistor?) from a stud type to a 6" rod-type. Basically, it sticks right into the bullet forest. It is mounted through the rear wall of the oven.
I gleaned the info from this guy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PuoiD9mwmUQ (is hot-linking ok?) who also has the best video I've seen on PID construction for you guys who are thinking of building. He originally built the PID right into the oven but tore it apart because it all got too hot and put it into a separate box. Now you can use the control box for your Lee 20 lb pot, shotmaker or even the lube heater on your lubesizer!
Keep in mind that these little ovens, which are cheap and handy, are not of industrial design and lack many safety features! Keep a fire extinguisher handy!
Never use HER oven!
vagrantviking
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- High River, Alberta
I looked at my toaster oven for a few minutes and then drilled a hole in the center top of the thing. The probe hangs just a couple inches above the tray. Works great.
One day I'll get into the guts and separate the circuit for the convection fan from the elements so it can run full time while the heat cycles on and off. For the time being I just leave the fan off.
One day I'll get into the guts and separate the circuit for the convection fan from the elements so it can run full time while the heat cycles on and off. For the time being I just leave the fan off.
Ice cube trays don't work.
Amazon stated that these were good for 500 decrees.
My clear powder was supposed to be used at 400 and I was a bit hesitant, so I went to 375 and this is what happened.
The rubbery black one worked OK for my smaller .25 cal. bullets, but the plastic ones don't do the job.
Got this one from Amazon, tried it today at 420
