- Location
- Steel Town and The Peg
Fixed ∆∆∆
I have the exact same scope and rifle. I used Sako optilock medium rings and it worked perfectly.
Was there a reason you didn’t go with low Optilocks?


I’ve used dozens of talleys on tikkas. If I can’t find the size I want, I’ve machine a bunch of Remington talleys to fit. Even made a 34mm set of talleys fit a buddys tikka. This is my first time using DNZ and honestly, I’m not sure I would go back to talleys. I’ve had a few bumps and bangs over the years and have had to adjust my scope an inch or 2. The DNZ is definitely superior:
The bridge aligns both halves, no need to lap
The bridge ties both halves together so each ring has 4 screws holding it down, not 2
It is more robust, especially the ring cap thickness that there are a few pics on the internet showing cracking. Likely due to over torque, but still.
I thought the DNZ would feel like a brick but there is not even 2 ounces difference between them
View attachment 445643
View attachment 445641

Thanks very much for that, DMS1. I’ll continue searching around to see if I can find low’s.General gun in Ontario, but they only had medium, was perfect for my 50mm. For a 40mm scope I’d want low.
There is exactly .120” difference between low and mediums. Talleys are .100” increments
If you own the gun and the scope, it’s easy to mock up, find your eye relief and stack a combo of coins that make your height and check for barrel clearance. Longer scopes can sit lower, as the barrel tapers away from the shank farther out.
Talley measured under the scope. DNZ measures to the centreline. Lows are .940, minus half of 30mm = .349” between scope and receiver.
View attachment 445645
Awesome! Thanks!http://www.mil-rad.com/scope_ring_calculator
I like to use this website to do the calculations and then check the suppliers for their actual dimensions.
I use Talley. They are light and with integrated base I can get my scope low enough to get a consistent cheek weld on a factory Tikka stock. I use scopes that have smaller objectives as anything bigger the weight starts to add up. I read a long ago that when you shoulder your gun with your eyes closed and when you open them and are looking down the scope you have the right combo. Lows work for my build.
Higher rings with bigger objectives mean adding a check riser to the stock to get your eye to line up correctly.
I have 4 Tikka T3's - ALL have Talley's. They are light and with integrated base I can get my scope low enough to get a consistent cheek weld on a factory Tikka stock. Never had a problem with these LW Aluminum 1 pc - jmo RJ
talley’s are clearly a popular choice. I’m certainly not ruling them out (my other rifles wear them), but was hoping to try something different.
why ? Lol RJ




























