Tikka T3X Scope Mounting

Was there a reason you didn’t go with low Optilocks?

Yeah the low can prevent you getting the correct eye relief if you need the scope further back in the rings. If you need it far enough back then The objective bell can hit the scope base before it is back far enough with the low rings. I went with medium height on both my tikka and my Sako rifles and both times I would have had to have the scope further forward than optimum for eye relief if i had used low rings.
 
I’ve used dozens of talleys on tikkas. If I can’t find the size I want, I’ve machine a bunch of Remington talleys to fit. Even made a 34mm set of talleys fit a buddys tikka. This is my first time using DNZ and honestly, I’m not sure I would go back to talleys. I’ve had a few bumps and bangs over the years and have had to adjust my scope an inch or 2. The DNZ is definitely superior:

The bridge aligns both halves, no need to lap

The bridge ties both halves together so each ring has 4 screws holding it down, not 2

It is more robust, especially the ring cap thickness that there are a few pics on the internet showing cracking. Likely due to over torque, but still.

I thought the DNZ would feel like a brick but there is not even 2 ounces difference between them

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I’ve used dozens of talleys on tikkas. If I can’t find the size I want, I’ve machine a bunch of Remington talleys to fit. Even made a 34mm set of talleys fit a buddys tikka. This is my first time using DNZ and honestly, I’m not sure I would go back to talleys. I’ve had a few bumps and bangs over the years and have had to adjust my scope an inch or 2. The DNZ is definitely superior:

The bridge aligns both halves, no need to lap

The bridge ties both halves together so each ring has 4 screws holding it down, not 2

It is more robust, especially the ring cap thickness that there are a few pics on the internet showing cracking. Likely due to over torque, but still.

I thought the DNZ would feel like a brick but there is not even 2 ounces difference between them

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Thank you for the images for comparison. I like the sounds of the DNZ, but can’t find them in stock anywhere. Where did you get yours from?
 
General gun in Ontario, but they only had medium, was perfect for my 50mm. For a 40mm scope I’d want low.

There is exactly .120” difference between low and mediums. Talleys are .100” increments

If you own the gun and the scope, it’s easy to mock up, find your eye relief and stack a combo of coins that make your height and check for barrel clearance. Longer scopes can sit lower, as the barrel tapers away from the shank farther out.

Talley measured under the scope. DNZ measures to the centreline. Lows are .940, minus half of 30mm = .349” between scope and receiver.

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General gun in Ontario, but they only had medium, was perfect for my 50mm. For a 40mm scope I’d want low.

There is exactly .120” difference between low and mediums. Talleys are .100” increments

If you own the gun and the scope, it’s easy to mock up, find your eye relief and stack a combo of coins that make your height and check for barrel clearance. Longer scopes can sit lower, as the barrel tapers away from the shank farther out.

Talley measured under the scope. DNZ measures to the centreline. Lows are .940, minus half of 30mm = .349” between scope and receiver.

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Thanks very much for that, DMS1. I’ll continue searching around to see if I can find low’s.
 
I use Talley. They are light and with integrated base I can get my scope low enough to get a consistent cheek weld on a factory Tikka stock. I use scopes that have smaller objectives as anything bigger the weight starts to add up. I read a long ago that when you shoulder your gun with your eyes closed and when you open them and are looking down the scope you have the right combo. Lows work for my build.
Higher rings with bigger objectives mean adding a check riser to the stock to get your eye to line up correctly.
 
I use Talley. They are light and with integrated base I can get my scope low enough to get a consistent cheek weld on a factory Tikka stock. I use scopes that have smaller objectives as anything bigger the weight starts to add up. I read a long ago that when you shoulder your gun with your eyes closed and when you open them and are looking down the scope you have the right combo. Lows work for my build.
Higher rings with bigger objectives mean adding a check riser to the stock to get your eye to line up correctly.

I have 4 Tikka T3's - ALL have Talley's. They are light and with integrated base I can get my scope low enough to get a consistent cheek weld on a factory Tikka stock. Never had a problem with these LW Aluminum 1 pc - jmo RJ

Talley’s are clearly a popular choice. I’m certainly not ruling them out (my other rifles wear them), but was hoping to try something different.
 
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