Lever action reloading question.

B.Ruddick

B.Ruddick

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Question regarding reloading;
When reloading for a tube mag lever action, as in 32W.S. Should a person use a crimp die? or do Lyman dies crimp as you seat the bullet?

I recently picked up my first centre fire lever action rifle, a 1948 model 94 in 32W.S. I was looking for a 30-30 originally but this seemed way more SPECIAL.

For now I have decided to go with IMR3031, seems like a tried and true powder from what I have read.
There is also a jug of Win748 sitting here that I can play with, maybe.

I have a box of ammo, Hornady’s Leverevolition FTX 165grain bullets, these pointed tips sure have me a tad concerned, they seem very hard, not to sure if I’m going to trust these stacked in the magazine.
Any thoughts on these?
 
I have used the FTX 165 Grain Factory Ammo in my lever 30-30 Winchester, I was a bit concerned also at the beginning but it was fine no problems loading them in the tube. My rifle did not like those rounds one bit, shots were all over the place and prefer the 150 & 170 RN much better. As for the crimp I'm not sure haven't started reloading them yet, I'm sure someone will answer that because I would also like to know.
 
I feel better about crimping for a tube mag. The spring force might push bullets into the case or the bullet might move out due to recoil. Also, neck brass on .30/30 is thin so it won't grip the bullet very hard. Bullet seating dies that crimp are dependent on case length. Long cases crimp more than short cases. Cases all need to be trimmed to the same length for that type of die to work properly.

I prefer the Lee factory crimp die because its not dependent on case length. It can crimp on bullets without a canelure (crimping groove). I use it on .30 carbine bullets in a .30/30.

That's my take on it.
 
Most normal seating dies will also crimp. Read the directions or refer to the information on their web site if in doubt. Even with a die that does both it sometimes works best to just seat then readjust the die and run them through again to crimp.
A collet type crimper might give better results but I've seldom needed to do that.
 
I've been reloading for the 30-30 for 30 years or more.
If you have a crimp die, go ahead and crimp them if there is a crimp groove,cannelure]...
If you don't usualy you can adjust your die to crimp.
I have never has a problem by not crimping them
old timer 74
 
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Crimp - taper is better but if your bullet has a cannelure - roll crimp.
The Lee factory crimp die is an alternative. You do not need a hard crimp up to the point to deform the bullet.

I shoot only lead bullet in my Win 1886 and Win 94 - with a light crimp and never had a bullet set back in the case.
 
I’m used to using Lee Precision dies, and know that they can crimp as well, but I have no idea or information if the Lyman dies do the same or not.

Good information so far, thank you, keep it coming.
 
B.Ruddick: Both Dwane Cyr and vagrantviking are correct. Rounds loaded in lever rifles definitely should be crimped. Otherwise, magazine spring pressure could push bullets back into the cases, causing the rifle to jam. Anyone who has had this happen, knows what a headache it can be to clear.
As already mentioned, it is better to crimp the bullets as a separate operation. The Lee Factory Crimp die does a good job. As vagrantviking also mentions, most... if not all regular bullet seating dies also feature a crimp shoulder. This produces a firm roll crimp.
I am guessing you are already an experienced reloader. Just needing advice on your new lever action. So you likely already know that IMR 3031 is a classic powder for both .30-30 and .32 Special. 748 will work well, too. I prefer 3031....very consistent and reliable. I have not used the 165 grain FTX bullet in this caliber, but can`t see where it might cause any problems.

Yes....Lyman bullet seating dies do feature a crimp shoulder.
 
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