1000 yrd rifle

You guys can sure pull a new guy in a bunch of different directions. There's no need to overcomplicate things, pretty much any modern rifle will do what the OP is asking.

Tikka is in your price range, is very precise, and is the best dollars to performance value out there. A Tikka in 6.5 Creedmoor will serve you fine. If you want to dress it up a bit while not spending much, you can drop it in a KRG Bravo chassis.
 
You guys can sure pull a new guy in a bunch of different directions. There's no need to overcomplicate things, pretty much any modern rifle will do what the OP is asking.

Tikka is in your price range, is very precise, and is the best dollars to performance value out there. A Tikka in 6.5 Creedmoor will serve you fine. If you want to dress it up a bit while not spending much, you can drop it in a KRG Bravo chassis.

LoL, the advice given here vs snipers hide is quite a contrast.
 
To be fair, they will all get him to 1000 yards. So, reasonable answers without more data from the OP. - dan

That's a fair comment.

It's hard to steer someone in the correct direction if we have no parameters and criteria to work with. So instead we are all working from our own perceptions and biases.
 
I'm still waiting to see my first box of 300 PRC ammo sitting on a shelf, and I live in Calgary.
I have a receiver sitting here, waiting to build one, but not alot of point when you can't find any brass or ammo in Canada. Or slow powder for that matter. But you don't need a boomer to hit 1000y.

Just did a budget build for 1000y last year. Tikka CTR in 6.5 creed, MDT XRS chassis (KRG Bravo is another good option, but you'll probably want to buy the spigot to extend the handguard), 20 moa rail, $20 MCarbo trigger spring (adjusted to just under 1lb), Insite Heathen brake and an Athlon 5-25 Midas Tac from Jerry @ Mystic. With a couple of spare AICS mags it was under $3500 without a bipod. With handloads I'm well under moa out to 800y (furthest I've shot so far). The Athlon tracks perfectly, has a ton of elevation adjustment, and is a couple hundred less than a gen 2 PST. I own both scopes, glass quality is pretty much identical to my eyes. As is turret feel.

If you want to save a few hundred dollars, pillar bed the factory CTR stock and spend 10 minutes with a dremel to free float the barrel in the factory stock. The factory CTR mags are expensive, but excellent. And you can buy a Bravo chassis that takes them. If you go to an AICS chassis, the binder less MDT mags work flawlessly with a Tikka, and allow you to load to 2.950"ish (basically as long as you want).
You can go even cheaper if you run a Savage rifle, but that's a decision you need to make. They shoot quite well, too, but are nowhere as smooth and refined as a Tikka.
 
I have several rifles that do well at 1000 yards.

To do well you will need a scope that holds zero, returns to zero and dials precisely, the second item is handloads that are 'bench rest perfect'. This means at least 15 ft/s Extreme Spread with single digit preferred.

What ever groups you get at 300 yards usually equates to 4 times that at 1000yds, that is to say a 1.5 inch group at 300 will be most likely a 6" group at 1000 or worse depending on conditions and your ability to 'drive' the bullet to the target.

On steel, my 7mm-08 hunting rifle (Steyr with 20" bbl) with a 6x SWFA Mil-Quad does fine to at least 1160 yards.
 
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