Husqvarna Sporting Rifles #### - ALL MODELS!!!

Not a concern for me, but i've seen some with that issue. In the worse case, the part is easy to replicate / fabricate.
Of course, if that's a concern to you, as Ted said, the 98 (640) may be a good choice, but it's slightly heavier too.
 
It is indeed the weak link. I have had two bolt stop failures in the 1600 series since getting my first one of several dozen rifles in 1967. The little tab of folded metal broke off from the main part of the stop body.

Have had several of both, and you might appreciate the extra pound of weight in the ‘98 when shooting the 9.3X62. It can be a mitt full in that caliber.

Ted

Ok, thank you.
 
Not a concern for me, but i've seen some with that issue. In the worse case, the part is easy to replicate / fabricate.
Of course, if that's a concern to you, as Ted said, the 98 (640) may be a good choice, but it's slightly heavier too.

Probably it will be the 98. I already have one in 30-06 with side mount and I love that gun. 9.3 will be a nice addition. Thank you.
 
Just picked up my first Husqvarna as a hunting rifle in 30-06 with a 1600 action ser #3192xx ... quick google search tells me late 60s but I could be wrong. Could anyone tell me what year and model it is? Beautiful piece of wood, very happy with this for $400.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DJuBJXhCU461OimL0uTLpcvMdNs-bicJ/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qpjualFh02hhAo4Uzm9J-A-2UyYdMFm7/view?usp=sharing
 
Does anybody know if that part is meant to be bedded in the stock?
that bushing on the bottom metal that fits where the front action screw goes.
i lost the excellent accuracy i had earlier this winter, and taking the stock apart this afternoon
i had a hard time separating the two. like if the stock had shrink from the lower humidity in the house.
can this be the culprit?

YWzn4p.jpg
 
Yes, that's how a Mauser pilar is sopposed to be. I personaly doubt it's what caused you loss of accuracy. Something else must be in play. Wood dryness can make the bedding to change, but usually when it's too dry, the wood will crack on impact. Check the trigger / magazine well interweb for cracks but I still suspect you problem is elsewhere.
 
Yes, that's how a Mauser pilar is sopposed to be. I personaly doubt it's what caused you loss of accuracy. Something else must be in play. Wood dryness can make the bedding to change, but usually when it's too dry, the wood will crack on impact. Check the trigger / magazine well interweb for cracks but I still suspect you problem is elsewhere.

Thanks
 
Just picked up my first Husqvarna as a hunting rifle in 30-06 with a 1600 action ser #3192xx ... quick google search tells me late 60s but I could be wrong. Could anyone tell me what year and model it is? Beautiful piece of wood, very happy with this for $400.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DJuBJXhCU461OimL0uTLpcvMdNs-bicJ/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qpjualFh02hhAo4Uzm9J-A-2UyYdMFm7/view?usp=sharing

Your rifle is a European model 1640MC, the equivalent to North American model 3000, made in the last year of the 1640 production, means 1967
 
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I have no markings at all in that area of the barrel.

I have tried cycling some rounds through the action. It sometimes fails to extract the round from the chamber. I removed the bolt and inserted a round under the extractor.
It seems rather loose to me, and the round can rock back and forth. Is this normal?

Thank you
 
It is possible that you have a custom barrel mounted on your HVA action, and chambered for a different cartridge than what you were told it is. Suggest strongly that you have the rifle checked by a gunsmith, including a chamber cast to identify what it really is.
 
Hi
Is this the right forum to ask about a CG 63 rifle?
Hope so!

I just got a new to me CG63 target rifle
Matching receiver, bolt and bolt shroud . Wing safety not matching and I couldnt see a number on the cocking piece
My issue is the safety wont move when cocked in battery
What I have noticed is the cocking piece is not moving far enough rearward to allow the wing safety to move.
I think the trigger holds the cocking piece in place?
It is an aftermarket trigger
So, am i right in suspecting the trigger or cocking piece as being at fault?

BTW, the 96 bolt is alot simpiler than the 98!!!

Thank you
 
The CG63 is more of a military / militia / competition rifle...
Anyhow, I will make an exception as per it may also affect the 640 series in particular.

To tune the CG63, the Swedes often used custom springs, triggers and cocking pieces and sometimes modified firing pins. Your problem come from either one or the other or a combinaison of these things.
If you remove the safety flag, you should see where the notch in the cocking piece is located. This will allow you to grind the safety tab if needed or even to determine if you need to replace the firing pin. But most likely, your rifle was fitted with an aftermarket trigger and it's the wrong one for the cocking piece / action or your cocking pièce was ground off way too far and will then need replacement.
 
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One wrong photo uploaded, the two photos are of a Husky I just bought, 1600 something I think, can anyone identify please, the picture I saw before I purchased was not really clear, I thought I was buying a 1900.


493268[/ATTACH]HPIM1259.jpg
 

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