Looking for reloading setup

I started with the Lee kit. 50th anniversary or Breech lock kit give you pretty much what a guy needs to get started. Lee also has a 3 or 4 die rifle kit for 50-80 bucks
 
BTM, take a look at the reloading kits they offer, and purchase what's in their kits.

I see where your confusion is coming from, especially as you're new to this.

You certainly don't need everything from that list.

Go onto the LEE or RCBS site and check out their kits. They will give a list of everything in the kit.

DO NOT FORGET TO PURCHASE A CURRENT RELOADING HANDBOOK, preferably by Lyman, unless you're going to use specific bullets from a specialized maker.

The Lyman manual is pretty much good for everything that isn't a wildcat.

You need a press, scale, die/shell head holder, lube pad, case lube, vernier and ogive nut to measure length of loaded cartridges.

This will be a basic kit, that will get you by.
 
BTM, take a look at the reloading kits they offer, and purchase what's in their kits.

I see where your confusion is coming from, especially as you're new to this.

You certainly don't need everything from that list.

Go onto the LEE or RCBS site and check out their kits. They will give a list of everything in the kit.

DO NOT FORGET TO PURCHASE A CURRENT RELOADING HANDBOOK, preferably by Lyman, unless you're going to use specific bullets from a specialized maker.

The Lyman manual is pretty much good for everything that isn't a wildcat.

You need a press, scale, die/shell head holder, lube pad, case lube, vernier and ogive nut to measure length of loaded cartridges.

This will be a basic kit, that will get you by.

I'm not too worried about spending money, especially with parts I need. Right now I've priced out the following:

1. Press -- USED RCBS RCS ~$155

2. Scale -- LEE BAR $44

3. Die set & shell holder - ULTIMATE RIFLE 3 DI 308 $69

4. Trimmer -- LEE DELUXE TRIMMER + TRIM DIE $27+15= $42

5. Powder funnel -- RCBS POWDER FUNNEL *X-RELOAD* - $10

6. Loading block -- Wood

7. Case preparation tools
PPC - PRIMER POCKET CLEANER $3
Chamfer - DELUXE 4-BLADE CHAMFER DEBURR TOOL $28
Lube - ONE SHOT® AEROSOL SPRAY CASE LUBE $22

8. Caliper -- HORNADY DIGITAL CALIPER $52

9. Bullet puller -- LNL® IMPACT BULLET PULLER $28

10. Handbook -- LEE MANUAL *X-RELOAD* $37

TOTAL - $490

That still doesn't include a powder measure, or a cleaner.

Do I require a lube pad? I've seen lots of instances where people just stand all the cases up, and give them a light misting with lube instead?
 
To me trying to drill out a block of wood to make a loading block isn't worth it. They're under $10 and are sized for pretty much any caliber. Some sizes on one side and flip it over to do the rest.
Lube pad no, some guys here even use Costco cooking spray.
Cleaner..$85-$100 for a tumbler
Calipers... Cdn Tire ones come on for $20

Clint
 
I'm not too worried about spending money, especially with parts I need. Right now I've priced out the following:

1. Press -- USED RCBS RCS ~$155

2. Scale -- LEE BAR $44

3. Die set & shell holder - ULTIMATE RIFLE 3 DI 308 $69

4. Trimmer -- LEE DELUXE TRIMMER + TRIM DIE $27+15= $42

5. Powder funnel -- RCBS POWDER FUNNEL *X-RELOAD* - $10

6. Loading block -- Wood

7. Case preparation tools
PPC - PRIMER POCKET CLEANER $3
Chamfer - DELUXE 4-BLADE CHAMFER DEBURR TOOL $28
Lube - ONE SHOT® AEROSOL SPRAY CASE LUBE $22

8. Caliper -- HORNADY DIGITAL CALIPER $52

9. Bullet puller -- LNL® IMPACT BULLET PULLER $28

10. Handbook -- LEE MANUAL *X-RELOAD* $37

TOTAL - $490

That still doesn't include a powder measure, or a cleaner.

Do I require a lube pad? I've seen lots of instances where people just stand all the cases up, and give them a light misting with lube instead?

Pretty good start I'd say.

I bought a lube pad when I started reloading, used it once. It's not "essential", and for me there are easier/faster/more precise ways to lube.

Cleaning - you don't need anything to start. An old towel and some water + dish soap will work well enough if you even need to clean the brass.

The Lee Bar (Safety?) scale works but if it were me I'd upgrade that. The Lee Safety Scale takes forever to settle. A good beam scale is the one thing I wouldn't be afraid to spend a bit more on.

Powder measure - you don't need it if you have a beam scale. Weighing every charge takes longer but not big deal if you're doing 20 - 50 at a time. That said, it's nice to have a good powder measure but be aware that not all powder measures work well with all powders. You will sometimes need to weigh every charge.
 
To me trying to drill out a block of wood to make a loading block isn't worth it. They're under $10 and are sized for pretty much any caliber. Some sizes on one side and flip it over to do the rest.
Lube pad no, some guys here even use Costco cooking spray.
Cleaner..$85-$100 for a tumbler
Calipers... Cdn Tire ones come on for $20

Clint

Great, thanks! I'll make some changes then. I'll definitely add a tumbler too.


Pretty good start I'd say.

I bought a lube pad when I started reloading, used it once. It's not "essential", and for me there are easier/faster/more precise ways to lube.

Cleaning - you don't need anything to start. An old towel and some water + dish soap will work well enough if you even need to clean the brass.

The Lee Bar (Safety?) scale works but if it were me I'd upgrade that. The Lee Safety Scale takes forever to settle. A good beam scale is the one thing I wouldn't be afraid to spend a bit more on.

Powder measure - you don't need it if you have a beam scale. Weighing every charge takes longer but not big deal if you're doing 20 - 50 at a time. That said, it's nice to have a good powder measure but be aware that not all powder measures work well with all powders. You will sometimes need to weigh every charge.

Thanks. What scale do you recommend? Something like the Hornady LNL Beam scale @ $125?

And without a powder measure do you just use a scoop or something then use a trickler?
 
If you navigate to ht tp://www.higginsonpowders.com/catalogues.html and hit the Lee Catalog entry, it'll explain what all these actually are.

It's sort of like grown-up equivalent of the toy section of the old Sears Christmas Wish Book (anyone remember that?)...

Aah, appreciate it. I just started reading through it and Ctr + F and looking for thing I need. Worked fairly well. Thanks
 
Great, thanks! I'll make some changes then. I'll definitely add a tumbler too.




Thanks. What scale do you recommend? Something like the Hornady LNL Beam scale @ $125?

And without a powder measure do you just use a scoop or something then use a trickler?

Without a powder thrower, it will be a bit more hit and miss if you're scooping and then trickling - I use a Lee powder thrower that came with the 50th anni kit. I set it up to throw close to charge weight and trickle the last bit. I drop the load into a primed case, pour it into the pan of the scale, tap the case on the work bench to remove any remaining pieces of powder and as the scale is settling, add powder from the trickler until it settles at the mark. Then pour it through the funnel back into the case. I haven't timed it but probably in the region of 30 seconds per case, maybe as high as 45. Not a big deal for me as I'm only loading a max of 30-50 at a time.
With a scoop I imagine it would be tough to scoop the same amount just shy of your charge weight each time. The extra time trickling or going back and forth doing this would have me on a powder thrower in no time.
 
Without a powder thrower, it will be a bit more hit and miss if you're scooping and then trickling - I use a Lee powder thrower that came with the 50th anni kit. I set it up to throw close to charge weight and trickle the last bit. I drop the load into a primed case, pour it into the pan of the scale, tap the case on the work bench to remove any remaining pieces of powder and as the scale is settling, add powder from the trickler until it settles at the mark. Then pour it through the funnel back into the case. I haven't timed it but probably in the region of 30 seconds per case, maybe as high as 45. Not a big deal for me as I'm only loading a max of 30-50 at a time.
With a scoop I imagine it would be tough to scoop the same amount just shy of your charge weight each time. The extra time trickling or going back and forth doing this would have me on a powder thrower in no time.

That's fair. Would a powder thrower like this be adequate?
https://x-reload.com/lee-perfect-powder-measure-2gr-100gr.html
 
That's fair. Would a powder thrower like this be adequate?
https://x-reload.com/lee-perfect-powder-measure-2gr-100gr.html

It's cheap, (and feels cheap IMO, but I'm cheap too) and some people report issues with them (wiper seals may need tightening) but it is functional. As long as you are expecting to trickle up to correct load. The thread pitch is the same as the thread pitch of a bottle pf powder, so if you've got 1lbrs you can just screw them right on. Means you can always be sure what powder you're dumping into the case.
 
I'm not too worried about spending money, especially with parts I need. Right now I've priced out the following:

1. Press -- USED RCBS RCS ~$155

2. Scale -- LEE BAR $44

3. Die set & shell holder - ULTIMATE RIFLE 3 DI 308 $69

4. Trimmer -- LEE DELUXE TRIMMER + TRIM DIE $27+15= $42

5. Powder funnel -- RCBS POWDER FUNNEL *X-RELOAD* - $10

6. Loading block -- Wood

7. Case preparation tools
PPC - PRIMER POCKET CLEANER $3
Chamfer - DELUXE 4-BLADE CHAMFER DEBURR TOOL $28
Lube - ONE SHOT® AEROSOL SPRAY CASE LUBE $22

8. Caliper -- HORNADY DIGITAL CALIPER $52

9. Bullet puller -- LNL® IMPACT BULLET PULLER $28

10. Handbook -- LEE MANUAL *X-RELOAD* $37

TOTAL - $490

That still doesn't include a powder measure, or a cleaner.

Do I require a lube pad? I've seen lots of instances where people just stand all the cases up, and give them a light misting with lube instead?

You're on the right track, I'll add a few comments.

2. The Lee safety scale is accurate enough, but you'd be much happier with an older RCBS beam scale, even the new ones aren't bad. Lyman makes a good beam scale too, no experience with the Hornady one. As the guys have mentioned, the Lee scale works, but there are better alternatives.

7. Lube - I'd avoid the aerosol lubes. Lee paste lube from Cabela's ($8) is excellent. I'm still using the first tube after a couple thousand rounds. No pad required, you apply a thin film with your fingertips. For lubing inside the case neck, a Q-tip with a few drops of RCBS Case Lube on it (under $10) works well.

8. A caliper is a good place to spend money IMO. I use a Mitutoyo dial caliper, most folks these days prefer digital. A good digital caliper (Mitutoyo) will set you back $150, but the cheaper ones work too. Just don't expect long life and last word accuracy from them.

9. Puller - I much prefer a press mounted collet puller with the collet you need for the calibre you're reloading for. Slightly more expensive but no pounding or broken inertia hammers. The Forster press mounted puller is a good one, and not overly expensive. With one collet added, it's about $40 from Hirsch Precision. There are 2 types, one type only works with the Co-Ax press, the other is universal.

Something about flailing away at a hard surface with a loaded rifle round gripped in a hammer never seemed like a good idea to me.. maybe I'm just nervous that way.

You'll need to prime cases. While the on-press priming arrangement of the Rock Chucker isn't the most hateful tool I've ever used, it's definitely in the top 5. Get a hand priming tool, or at least be prepared to buy one after you try priming with the Rock Chucker. Which, by the way, is an excellent press other than that.

The Lee powder scoops are an excellent alternative to a powder thrower ($16 from Cabela's). You're going to use a trickler to top up your charges anyway, so why fiddle with a powder thrower which will bind up on cylindrical rifle powder? That's been my experience.

You'll need the aforementioned powder trickler. I'd recommend the RCBS trickler, or anything except the Hornady. I have that one, and it's OK after adding some weight to it. Avoid that modification if you can.

Hornady makes at least 2 tools worth adding to your list. First is the bullet comparator, second is the headspace comparator. Both make life easier. Both can be had for under $90 in total.

Cleaning cases can be as simple as a bit of 000 steel wool, plus an inside neck brush to get carbon out of the neck to some degree. A nylon bore brush will work for that if need be.
I use a Hornady ultrasonic cleaner, which is overkill unless you want the cases sparkling clean inside AND out. It's not needed, really.

A good coil notebook for a loading log book is essential, especially when you're starting out. Write down whatever seems pertinent, you'll soon discover what you're missing in your notes, also what's not needed.
A Sharpie for writing batch numbers on your loaded cases. Otherwise, 6 months from now, you'll pull a loaded round out of a box and say "I wonder what this one is??" With a logbook and marked cases, you can go back and discover EXACTLY what it is.
Your log data will include date, bullet type and weight, powder charge and type, primer used, base-to-ogive length, # of rounds in that batch, plus whatever else you want to remember.
My batch numbers are dates, March 19, 2021 becomes 190321. If you load more than one batch on that day, add an alphabetical suffix, so 190321A, 190321B, etc. Simple, easy to find in your log book because you just go back looking for that date. If you used varying powder charges in a batch, for a ladder test as an example, note that on the individual cases. 44 gr, 44.6 gr, etc.

A decent chronograph will tell you a lot about what your loads are doing, where you are in relation to what the manual suggests you should be seeing, etc.

A good manual is both a reference and a list of common loadings.
Try to reference a couple of sources for a new load, not just one. Errors have been known to make it into print.
 
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I'd take a hard look at the Lyman Brass Smith Ideal kit, it comes with:

C Press
Powder measure and stand
Scale
Lyman Manual
Various accessories

I see it listed as out of stock for $315.

And a Caldwell Chronograph for $150
 
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You're on the right track, I'll add a few comments.

2. The Lee safety scale is accurate enough, but you'd be much happier with an older RCBS beam scale, even the new ones aren't bad. Lyman makes a good beam scale too, no experience with the Hornady one. As the guys have mentioned, the Lee scale works, but there are better alternatives.

7. Lube - I'd avoid the aerosol lubes. Lee paste lube from Cabela's ($8) is excellent. I'm still using the first tube after a couple thousand rounds. No pad required, you apply a thin film with your fingertips. For lubing inside the case neck, a Q-tip with a few drops of RCBS Case Lube on it (under $10) works well.

8. A caliper is a good place to spend money IMO. I use a Mitutoyo dial caliper, most folks these days prefer digital. A good digital caliper (Mitutoyo) will set you back $150, but the cheaper ones work too. Just don't expect long life and last word accuracy from them.

9. Puller - I much prefer a press mounted collet puller with the collet you need for the calibre you're reloading for. Slightly more expensive but no pounding or broken inertia hammers. The Forster press mounted puller is a good one, and not overly expensive. With one collet added, it's about $40 from Hirsch Precision. There are 2 types, one type only works with the Co-Ax press, the other is universal.

Something about flailing away at a hard surface with a loaded rifle round gripped in a hammer never seemed like a good idea to me.. maybe I'm just nervous that way.

You'll need to prime cases. While the on-press priming arrangement of the Rock Chucker isn't the most hateful tool I've ever used, it's definitely in the top 5. Get a hand priming tool, or at least be prepared to buy one after you try priming with the Rock Chucker. Which, by the way, is an excellent press other than that.

The Lee powder scoops are an excellent alternative to a powder thrower ($16 from Cabela's). You're going to use a trickler to top up your charges anyway, so why fiddle with a powder thrower which will bind up on cylindrical rifle powder? That's been my experience.

You'll need the aforementioned powder trickler. I'd recommend the RCBS trickler, or anything except the Hornady. I have that one, and it's OK after adding some weight to it. Avoid that modification if you can.

Hornady makes at least 2 tools worth adding to your list. First is the bullet comparator, second is the headspace comparator. Both make life easier. Both can be had for under $90 in total.

Cleaning cases can be as simple as a bit of 000 steel wool, plus an inside neck brush to get carbon out of the neck to some degree. A nylon bore brush will work for that if need be.
I use a Hornady ultrasonic cleaner, which is overkill unless you want the cases sparkling clean inside AND out. It's not needed, really.

A good coil notebook for a loading log book is essential, especially when you're starting out. Write down whatever seems pertinent, you'll soon discover what you're missing in your notes, also what's not needed.
A Sharpie for writing batch numbers on your loaded cases. Otherwise, 6 months from now, you'll pull a loaded round out of a box and say "I wonder what this one is??" With a logbook and marked cases, you can go back and discover EXACTLY what it is.
Your log data will include date, bullet type and weight, powder charge and type, primer used, base-to-ogive length, # of rounds in that batch, plus whatever else you want to remember.
My batch numbers are dates, March 19, 2021 becomes 190321. If you load more than one batch on that day, add an alphabetical suffix, so 190321A, 190321B, etc. Simple, easy to find in your log book because you just go back looking for that date. If you used varying powder charges in a batch, for a ladder test as an example, note that on the individual cases. 44 gr, 44.6 gr, etc.

A decent chronograph will tell you a lot about what your loads are doing, where you are in relation to what the manual suggests you should be seeing, etc.

A good manual is both a reference and a list of common loadings.
Try to reference a couple of sources for a new load, not just one. Errors have been known to make it into print.

Thanks for the reply. I'll probably grab the Lee scoops for now, as well as maybe get the RCBS M500 beam scale instead, and the RCBS Powder Trickler 2?

How about something like the RCBS Bullet Puller and Collet? It runs just over $60?

Also why don't you like the RCBS Press Primer? I saw a video with that, and one with a hand primer, and the press looked less flimsy, and easier?
 
Thanks for the reply. I'll probably grab the Lee scoops for now, as well as maybe get the RCBS M500 beam scale instead, and the RCBS Powder Trickler 2?

How about something like the RCBS Bullet Puller and Collet? It runs just over $60?

Also why don't you like the RCBS Press Primer? I saw a video with that, and one with a hand primer, and the press looked less flimsy, and easier?

If you can find a good used RCBS 5-0-5 beam scale they're quite good. Three "poises" or weights rather than 2, they're sort of the standard by which other scales are judged.
The M500 should be good too, it's similar to the older 5-0-2 scales I think.
Once in a while a used 5-0-5 pops up on the EE. Fair price is under $100. Avoid the cheap digital scales, you're getting what you pay for.

Most press mounted pullers work well, I suggested the Forster because that's what I've got. Hirsch is local to me.

I had a tough time with the Rock Chucker on-press priming tool. It took way more effort than it should have since you have no leverage (it pushes the primer in as you push the lever upwards, not down), as a result there's very poor "feel" to the process. Not a good design IMO. I quickly switched to the RCBS hand priming tool and have never looked back. Much better feel as you're seating primers. Plus, the primers go into a tray straight out of the box so you don't have to handle them.
The Frankford Arsenal priming tool is highly regarded by many as being very good, I've never tried one.
The older Lee hand primers were good, I've heard. The new ones seem to be more problematic, prone to breakage.
A friend of mine has a Sinclair hand primer that he says is the Cadillac. It's priced accordingly.

My approach to equipment was to piece together what I needed rather than buy a kit with items I didn't plan to use, and still have to buy other stuff that wasn't in the kit.
As a result, I've got a mix of new, used, and some home built items. Some green, some red, a few orange.

Where there was an inexpensive yet simple option, like steel wool or Scotchbrite for cleaning brass, the Lee dippers, etc I took that route to see how it worked for me. If it turned out to not be the best way to go, I could upgrade and not lose much in the process. The priming process was an example of that.

I will say that cleaning brass with steel wool or Scotchbrite is best limited to 20 or 30 pieces at a time, small volumes. If I have 50 pieces to do after a match, I'll put 25 at a time into the ultrasonic cleaner and let it run for 30 minutes while I'm doing something else.

Reloading is a hobby unto itself really, I don't begrudge the time I spend doing it. I'm more likely to spend money to make the process better, rather than try to speed it up.

If I loaded 200-300 (or more) handgun or plinking rounds at a time I'd have a very different approach, especially when it came to cleaning brass. A progressive press would be a must-have item too.

60-70% of the time I take reloading a batch of cases from start to finish will be spent on brass prep.

Priming and charging the cases, then seating bullets and measuring a sample of the finished rounds doesn't take long in comparison.
 
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Anyone have any ideas how I can maybe cut a few bucks off of this?

1. Press -- USED RCBS RCS ~$145
Primer Catcher - $18

2. Scale -- RCBS M500 X-RELOAD $134

3. Die set & shell holder -- ULTIMATE RIFLE 3 DI 308 $69

4. Trimmer -- LEE VALUE TRIMMER + TRIM DIE $20+15= $42

5. Powder funnel -- RCBS POWDER FUNNEL *X-RELOAD* - $10

6. Loading block -- LYMAN BLEACHER LOADING BLOCK .485 x2 $24

7. Case preparation tools
PPC - PRIMER POCKET CLEANER $3
Chamfer - DELUXE 4-BLADE CHAMFER DEBURR TOOL $28
Lube - ONE SHOT® AEROSOL SPRAY CASE LUBE $22

8. Caliper -- RCBS DIAL CALIPER X-RELOAD $76

9. Bullet puller -- FORESTER STANDARD PULLER UNIVERSAL* + FORESTER COLLET X-RELOAD $28+$17 = $45

10. Handbook -- HORNADY HANDBOOK OF CART RIDGE RELOADING 10th EDIT $55

11. Power Trickler -- RCBS POWER TRICKLER 2 CABELAS $40

12. Power Measure -- LEE IMP POWDER MEASURE KIT -- $13

13. Primer -- RCBS HAND PRIMING TOOL CABELAS $72

TOTAL (INCL. TAX) $895
 
Most of the new stuff you've listed and be found in the EE within a month, probably even as a package to make the shipping make more sense. I'm sure a Lee case gauge w/shellholder and cutter with the lock stud or whatever it's called would be 1/2 what you've listed for the trimmer bits. You can probably find a press for less. Used scale would be 1/2.

Clint
 
Get a kinetic bullet puller.The collect type are great if you have a lot to do, if you only have a couple the hammer type will work just fine and will not deform the bullets. Get a digital caliper from CT for $14 on sale. You are just using it on the loading bench not doing work for NASA. I have both an electric trickler and an RCBS one, I don’t use either. I find it easier a d fast to just pinch a few granulars of powder with my fingers. The electric trickler was cool until I realized it added about 15 minutes for every 50 rounds I loaded.
 
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