BTM, take a look at the reloading kits they offer, and purchase what's in their kits.
I see where your confusion is coming from, especially as you're new to this.
You certainly don't need everything from that list.
Go onto the LEE or RCBS site and check out their kits. They will give a list of everything in the kit.
DO NOT FORGET TO PURCHASE A CURRENT RELOADING HANDBOOK, preferably by Lyman, unless you're going to use specific bullets from a specialized maker.
The Lyman manual is pretty much good for everything that isn't a wildcat.
You need a press, scale, die/shell head holder, lube pad, case lube, vernier and ogive nut to measure length of loaded cartridges.
This will be a basic kit, that will get you by.
I'm not too worried about spending money, especially with parts I need. Right now I've priced out the following:
1. Press -- USED RCBS RCS ~$155
2. Scale -- LEE BAR $44
3. Die set & shell holder - ULTIMATE RIFLE 3 DI 308 $69
4. Trimmer -- LEE DELUXE TRIMMER + TRIM DIE $27+15= $42
5. Powder funnel -- RCBS POWDER FUNNEL *X-RELOAD* - $10
6. Loading block -- Wood
7. Case preparation tools
PPC - PRIMER POCKET CLEANER $3
Chamfer - DELUXE 4-BLADE CHAMFER DEBURR TOOL $28
Lube - ONE SHOT® AEROSOL SPRAY CASE LUBE $22
8. Caliper -- HORNADY DIGITAL CALIPER $52
9. Bullet puller -- LNL® IMPACT BULLET PULLER $28
10. Handbook -- LEE MANUAL *X-RELOAD* $37
TOTAL - $490
That still doesn't include a powder measure, or a cleaner.
Do I require a lube pad? I've seen lots of instances where people just stand all the cases up, and give them a light misting with lube instead?
To me trying to drill out a block of wood to make a loading block isn't worth it. They're under $10 and are sized for pretty much any caliber. Some sizes on one side and flip it over to do the rest.
Lube pad no, some guys here even use Costco cooking spray.
Cleaner..$85-$100 for a tumbler
Calipers... Cdn Tire ones come on for $20
Clint
Pretty good start I'd say.
I bought a lube pad when I started reloading, used it once. It's not "essential", and for me there are easier/faster/more precise ways to lube.
Cleaning - you don't need anything to start. An old towel and some water + dish soap will work well enough if you even need to clean the brass.
The Lee Bar (Safety?) scale works but if it were me I'd upgrade that. The Lee Safety Scale takes forever to settle. A good beam scale is the one thing I wouldn't be afraid to spend a bit more on.
Powder measure - you don't need it if you have a beam scale. Weighing every charge takes longer but not big deal if you're doing 20 - 50 at a time. That said, it's nice to have a good powder measure but be aware that not all powder measures work well with all powders. You will sometimes need to weigh every charge.
If you navigate to ht tp://www.higginsonpowders.com/catalogues.html and hit the Lee Catalog entry, it'll explain what all these actually are.
It's sort of like grown-up equivalent of the toy section of the old Sears Christmas Wish Book (anyone remember that?)...
Great, thanks! I'll make some changes then. I'll definitely add a tumbler too.
Thanks. What scale do you recommend? Something like the Hornady LNL Beam scale @ $125?
And without a powder measure do you just use a scoop or something then use a trickler?
Without a powder thrower, it will be a bit more hit and miss if you're scooping and then trickling - I use a Lee powder thrower that came with the 50th anni kit. I set it up to throw close to charge weight and trickle the last bit. I drop the load into a primed case, pour it into the pan of the scale, tap the case on the work bench to remove any remaining pieces of powder and as the scale is settling, add powder from the trickler until it settles at the mark. Then pour it through the funnel back into the case. I haven't timed it but probably in the region of 30 seconds per case, maybe as high as 45. Not a big deal for me as I'm only loading a max of 30-50 at a time.
With a scoop I imagine it would be tough to scoop the same amount just shy of your charge weight each time. The extra time trickling or going back and forth doing this would have me on a powder thrower in no time.
That's fair. Would a powder thrower like this be adequate?
https://x-reload.com/lee-perfect-powder-measure-2gr-100gr.html
I'm not too worried about spending money, especially with parts I need. Right now I've priced out the following:
1. Press -- USED RCBS RCS ~$155
2. Scale -- LEE BAR $44
3. Die set & shell holder - ULTIMATE RIFLE 3 DI 308 $69
4. Trimmer -- LEE DELUXE TRIMMER + TRIM DIE $27+15= $42
5. Powder funnel -- RCBS POWDER FUNNEL *X-RELOAD* - $10
6. Loading block -- Wood
7. Case preparation tools
PPC - PRIMER POCKET CLEANER $3
Chamfer - DELUXE 4-BLADE CHAMFER DEBURR TOOL $28
Lube - ONE SHOT® AEROSOL SPRAY CASE LUBE $22
8. Caliper -- HORNADY DIGITAL CALIPER $52
9. Bullet puller -- LNL® IMPACT BULLET PULLER $28
10. Handbook -- LEE MANUAL *X-RELOAD* $37
TOTAL - $490
That still doesn't include a powder measure, or a cleaner.
Do I require a lube pad? I've seen lots of instances where people just stand all the cases up, and give them a light misting with lube instead?
Thanks. What scale do you recommend? Something like the Hornady LNL Beam scale @ $125?
And without a powder measure do you just use a scoop or something then use a trickler?
Great, thanks! I'll make some changes then. I'll definitely add a tumbler too.
You're on the right track, I'll add a few comments.
2. The Lee safety scale is accurate enough, but you'd be much happier with an older RCBS beam scale, even the new ones aren't bad. Lyman makes a good beam scale too, no experience with the Hornady one. As the guys have mentioned, the Lee scale works, but there are better alternatives.
7. Lube - I'd avoid the aerosol lubes. Lee paste lube from Cabela's ($8) is excellent. I'm still using the first tube after a couple thousand rounds. No pad required, you apply a thin film with your fingertips. For lubing inside the case neck, a Q-tip with a few drops of RCBS Case Lube on it (under $10) works well.
8. A caliper is a good place to spend money IMO. I use a Mitutoyo dial caliper, most folks these days prefer digital. A good digital caliper (Mitutoyo) will set you back $150, but the cheaper ones work too. Just don't expect long life and last word accuracy from them.
9. Puller - I much prefer a press mounted collet puller with the collet you need for the calibre you're reloading for. Slightly more expensive but no pounding or broken inertia hammers. The Forster press mounted puller is a good one, and not overly expensive. With one collet added, it's about $40 from Hirsch Precision. There are 2 types, one type only works with the Co-Ax press, the other is universal.
Something about flailing away at a hard surface with a loaded rifle round gripped in a hammer never seemed like a good idea to me.. maybe I'm just nervous that way.
You'll need to prime cases. While the on-press priming arrangement of the Rock Chucker isn't the most hateful tool I've ever used, it's definitely in the top 5. Get a hand priming tool, or at least be prepared to buy one after you try priming with the Rock Chucker. Which, by the way, is an excellent press other than that.
The Lee powder scoops are an excellent alternative to a powder thrower ($16 from Cabela's). You're going to use a trickler to top up your charges anyway, so why fiddle with a powder thrower which will bind up on cylindrical rifle powder? That's been my experience.
You'll need the aforementioned powder trickler. I'd recommend the RCBS trickler, or anything except the Hornady. I have that one, and it's OK after adding some weight to it. Avoid that modification if you can.
Hornady makes at least 2 tools worth adding to your list. First is the bullet comparator, second is the headspace comparator. Both make life easier. Both can be had for under $90 in total.
Cleaning cases can be as simple as a bit of 000 steel wool, plus an inside neck brush to get carbon out of the neck to some degree. A nylon bore brush will work for that if need be.
I use a Hornady ultrasonic cleaner, which is overkill unless you want the cases sparkling clean inside AND out. It's not needed, really.
A good coil notebook for a loading log book is essential, especially when you're starting out. Write down whatever seems pertinent, you'll soon discover what you're missing in your notes, also what's not needed.
A Sharpie for writing batch numbers on your loaded cases. Otherwise, 6 months from now, you'll pull a loaded round out of a box and say "I wonder what this one is??" With a logbook and marked cases, you can go back and discover EXACTLY what it is.
Your log data will include date, bullet type and weight, powder charge and type, primer used, base-to-ogive length, # of rounds in that batch, plus whatever else you want to remember.
My batch numbers are dates, March 19, 2021 becomes 190321. If you load more than one batch on that day, add an alphabetical suffix, so 190321A, 190321B, etc. Simple, easy to find in your log book because you just go back looking for that date. If you used varying powder charges in a batch, for a ladder test as an example, note that on the individual cases. 44 gr, 44.6 gr, etc.
A decent chronograph will tell you a lot about what your loads are doing, where you are in relation to what the manual suggests you should be seeing, etc.
A good manual is both a reference and a list of common loadings.
Try to reference a couple of sources for a new load, not just one. Errors have been known to make it into print.
Fwiw, a tumbler isn't necessary. I've been reloading for about 10 years now, and have never owned or needed a tumbler.
Thanks for the reply. I'll probably grab the Lee scoops for now, as well as maybe get the RCBS M500 beam scale instead, and the RCBS Powder Trickler 2?
How about something like the RCBS Bullet Puller and Collet? It runs just over $60?
Also why don't you like the RCBS Press Primer? I saw a video with that, and one with a hand primer, and the press looked less flimsy, and easier?