Seized Choke Tube

That's just it, this was LEAD shot... it should not have expanded like that.
When you say anti-seize, is that gun specific, or the usual silver stuff you use in mechanics (on bolts for example)?
 
AdamRoby said:
That's just it, this was LEAD shot... it should not have expanded like that.
When you say anti-seize, is that gun specific, or the usual silver stuff you use in mechanics (on bolts for example)?
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the usual silver stuff you use in mechanics (on bolts for example) is the stuff to use...

about choke designations... full and extra full definitely are not good with steel you will get better patterns at longer range with less constriction.

Lead shot should not have harmed your full choke tube, I expect it is the quality of the shotgun is at fault.
 
I just wanted to thank the community for your help and advice. I appreciated all of the valuable feedback and recommendations. I might have gone nuts and accidentally destroyed it without your help.
 
AdamRoby said:
Unfortunately, this was a "final sale / no warranty" type of deal. It was a really good price, but the original supplier went out of business. This was purchased from a "pawn shop", still in it's original box. They only had 2... I took a chance... maybe now I am paying for it.
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Warranties are from the manufacturer not retailer. Contact the manufacturer via the contact info on the warranty document or manual. Their website says they come with a 2 year warranty.
 
the spank said:
Warranties are from the manufacturer not retailer. Contact the manufacturer via the contact info on the warranty document or manual. Their website says they come with a 2 year warranty.
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I'll check it out, thanks for the recommendation.

guntech said:
...full and extra full definitely are not good with steel you will get better patterns at longer range with less constriction.
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Do you recommend I use an improved cylinder choke with steel shot instead of an extra full choke with lead shot?
 
It looks like either A. the choke tube was a bit undersized in the area it expanded tight or
B. worse case the barrel tube threads have a bulge in that area that allowed the tube to expand into it.
 
Suther said:
Do you have calipers? can you take some measurements of one of the chokes?
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This is what I measured, I hope it makes sense.

M2B6qMS.jpg
 
It appears to be a case of low quality choke tubes/barrel, put plenty of anti seize on the remaining choke tubes, and hope that they don't expand like the first one did. This sometimes happens with the low quality Turkish made shotguns.
 
Buy aftermarket chokes and itll be fine. Ive had enough turkish guns to know the chokes suck. Some are better than others. I have not had issues with my dickinson or with my huglus but all my other turkish guns get new aftermarket chokes and i shoot both steel and turkey loads thru respective chokes. Just follow the choke manufactures reccommendations. You dont need to toss your ammo.
 
brybenn said:
Buy aftermarket chokes and itll be fine. Ive had enough turkish guns to know the chokes suck. Some are better than others. I have not had issues with my dickinson or with my huglus but all my other turkish guns get new aftermarket chokes and i shoot both steel and turkey loads thru respective chokes. Just follow the choke manufactures reccommendations. You dont need to toss your ammo.
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What brand do you normally purchase? I am looking at Browning but they don't seem to offer the X-Full chokes.
 
I have 2 carlson TSS chokes that I patterned in the last few weeks. Shot a bunch of shells through them (in cheap guns: Pardner pump and a Charles Daly semi) and they are fine.

They are expensive, but worth it.

David

Edit: Glad you got it out. This is what this community is all about. Knowledge transfer! Saved my bottom a few times as well ;-)
 
Depends on the threads. Some were invector which i used primos titewad chokes for turkey. Others are beretta mobil which i use actual beretta chokes and again primos titewad for turkey. Briley chokes have always been a good choice. I recently bought some carlson chokes to try in my charles daly. The carlson turkey choke for my beretta a400 wasnt worth the money. Chance you take i guess. Any aftermarket choke should be better than cheaper entry level gun factory turkish chokes
 
I still need to confirm, but if mine are invector chokes, I found some Carlson's made with hardened high-grade blue steel, which they claim is harder than stainless and meant for steel shot. If they can withstand steel, lead should not be a problem. They also sell the extra full ones (not meant for steel) which I may order. Guess I need to go visit my shop to see if they have any invector chokes kicking around that I can try.

Not very scientific, but I counted the threads on the online image and they match mine. That gives me some hope...
 
AdamRoby said:
I actually sent Als Corner an email this morning because their compatibility list doesn't have my Hunt Group listed (in case they have some experience).
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Sorry for the delay. My measurements are very close to yours. I would suspect that you do in fact have invector chokes.

I mostly use mossberg and Browning chokes. I've used my Turkish ones a bit, but when I switched from a mossberg maverick 88 to a mossberg 500 the 500 came with a few chokes (as opposed to just one for the 88) so between those and the few Browning ones I've bought over the years I've got my bases covered for normal choke sizes.
 
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Thanks for the feedback. I went to Sail today so I brought the shotgun with me. The closest match they had was an extended turkey invector choke (a Carlson). The threads don't line up perfectly, but it does screw in nicely to my shotgun and snugs up at the right place. Only problem is the $74.99 price tag (+ 15% tax here) - Ouch.

3uFDK3w.jpg


Al's corner store has a flush mount Carlson for $30 + $10 shipping... I might try that one instead.

Thanks again.
 
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