First Centrefire PRS purchase.

[rugbydave]

Thanks @Snowballs, I've been at this for a few years now, and I'll be the first to admit I don't have all the answers, but I'll pass on what I've observed for what it's worth. I've had the pleasure to be able to shoot with many of the guys on this forum. Some of them are very experienced competitors and have a great wealth of knowledge.

I've also had the privilege of shooting with some of the best in US. If you can get down there for matches, I highly recommend it.

It's a lot of fun, but it's really important to have your rifle, kit, and system well sorted out for matches. There's a lot to do at a PRS match besides the actual shooting. It's also a really good idea to get out to a few club level matches or a clinic before dropping a lot of money.

I'm not personally familiar with your proposed platform but I would caution you that whatever rifle and ammo combo you come up with is capable of 1 MOA accuracy minimum. I was using factory ammo through my trainer that was 2 MOA and it was causing me more frustration than the savings were worth. Basically you want to reduce the amount of uncertainty wherever possible.

Also, if you're just starting, I would say don't worry too much about long bullets with big BCs that your barrel can't handle. If you're loving the game, you will be rebarreling anyway.

Cheers!

Lotsa great advice in here.

I also learned the lesson I bolded a few years ago. Was running a factory take off barrel that was a 1:12tw as a .223 trainer barrel. Wouldn't stabilize anything heavier than 55s. So I figured I'd shoot tons of 55 FMJs, they're cheap, right? They are but they kinda suck too, haha. They'd only print a bit over 1 moa. It was great for practice building positions and breaking good shots but I had to run relatively generous targets (say 2 moa) to reliably make hits, especially past 200 yards where a 55 can get blown around. Point being that practicing on smaller targets makes life a lot easier once you get to a match. When you can brake a perfect shot in 10s on a 1moa target in practice, well, those 2 moa targets at matches feel mighty easy.

In any case, good luck and hope you enjoy PRS. You'll find the vast majority of shooters super friendly, open, willing to let you try their gear and will offer you tons of advice with no ulterior agenda. You'll quickly learn what works for you and what doesn't.

 

[rugbydave]

I’m in the same boat, now have a ton of LC 556 brass loaded with 77 grain Sierras kicking around. I also have a Rem 700, PTG coned 223 bolt and a Krieger 7.7” twist Heavy Palma barrelled action that I will have to get into a stock now to try out all this ammo. Guess it’s time to finish my 223 bolt gun build.

Those 77gr Sierras make awesome practice ammo and then for matches just substitute either the 77TMK or a 75 ELDM for a good bump in BC and you'll be set.

 

[Snowballs]

Lotsa great advice in here.

I also learned the lesson I bolded a few years ago. Was running a factory take off barrel that was a 1:12tw as a .223 trainer barrel. Wouldn't stabilize anything heavier than 55s. So I figured I'd shoot tons of 55 FMJs, they're cheap, right? They are but they kinda suck too, haha. They'd only print a bit over 1 moa. It was great for practice building positions and breaking good shots but I had to run relatively generous targets (say 2 moa) to reliably make hits, especially past 200 yards where a 55 can get blown around. Point being that practicing on smaller targets makes life a lot easier once you get to a match. When you can brake a perfect shot in 10s on a 1moa target in practice, well, those 2 moa targets at matches feel mighty easy.

In any case, good luck and hope you enjoy PRS. You'll find the vast majority of shooters super friendly, open, willing to let you try their gear and will offer you tons of advice with no ulterior agenda. You'll quickly learn what works for you and what doesn't.

Gentlemen,

How many magazines does one require in a typical PRS match?

I read the course description for the Pemberton event and it looks like you need to carry all your gear with you including rifle and handgun mags.

 

[kthomas]

Gentlemen,

How many magazines does one require in a typical PRS match?

I read the course description for the Pemberton event and it looks like you need to carry all your gear with you including rifle and handgun mags.

Minimum two, but not a bad idea to have an extra backup. I would recommend three if feasible.

 

[rugbydave]

Gentlemen,

How many magazines does one require in a typical PRS match?

I read the course description for the Pemberton event and it looks like you need to carry all your gear with you including rifle and handgun mags.

2 rifle mags and 2 pistol mags should do you fine for the Pemberton match (full disclosure, I wrote the COF). More mags are always better (I carry 6 rifle mags and 5 pistol mags) but not necessary. If you're so-so with a pistol, I'd bring 3 pistol mags, haha

 

[Snowballs]

2 rifle mags and 2 pistol mags should do you fine for the Pemberton match (full disclosure, I wrote the COF). More mags are always better (I carry 6 rifle mags and 5 pistol mags) but not necessary. If you're so-so with a pistol, I'd bring 3 pistol mags, haha

Thanks for heads up and advice.

Maybe I'll be able to use some of my (now unused) 3 gun gear to pack around the mags or use the advice as an excuse to buy some new battle rattle...

Won't be making the drive to Pemberton but hoping to attend the interior matches.

 

[rugbydave]

Thanks for heads up and advice.

Maybe I'll be able to use some of my (now unused) 3 gun gear to pack around the mags or use the advice as an excuse to buy some new battle rattle...

Won't be making the drive to Pemberton but hoping to attend the interior matches.

If you run Tacos on your 3-gun gear, they work great with AICS mags as well. I run 2 double deckers on my belt so 2x pistol mags and 2x rifle mags. Having a spare rifle mag on your belt during a stage can save the stage for you. If you have some kinda misfeed/doublefeed, you can just drop the mag and stuff in a new one.

 

[Snowballs]

If you run Tacos on your 3-gun gear, they work great with AICS mags as well. I run 2 double deckers on my belt so 2x pistol mags and 2x rifle mags. Having a spare rifle mag on your belt during a stage can save the stage for you. If you have some kinda misfeed/doublefeed, you can just drop the mag and stuff in a new one.

I switched from HSGI tacos over to ESSTAC shorty (naturally shorty 5.56 doesn't work with AICS mag but it was fun while it lasted).

Fortunately I kept one rifle/pistol taco and it fits perfectly.

Thanks for the heads up - recycle and reuse

 

[Biologist]

Old thread, but as a newbie here I am reading everything I can to learn. I had similar questions as the OP about how to get into PRS with a very limited budget.

I was thinking about starting with the Tikka action I already have, as several folks have recommended. The action is currently on the factory Stainless Varmint model in .260 Rem. Its not suitable for PRS as-is because it only has the 5 round plastic mag, so it would need a new chassis or stock for capability for 10-rd AICS style mags. So I am saving money for that conversion.

I was thinking of chambering the new barrel in 6.5x47 Lapua, and when more funds became available, buying a 2nd barrel in 6x47 Lapua. As I understand (correct me if I am wrong), I can use the 6.5 dies to reload both cartridges by changing the neck sizing bushings?

I know swapping barrels back and forth would be a hassle, and two sets of go/no-go gauges are not cheap, which challenges the idea of one set of dies saving money.

I have read alot of good things about the 6 and 6.5 x47 L. It might even work for F-Class if I had nothing else? (But I hear the bigger high BC 7mm calibers are dominating F-Class these days).

 

[Munkey1973]

Hey everyone,

Been shooting rimfire PRS for a while now and looking to transcend into the centrefire realm. Unfortunately I don't have the $$$ to build off of a custom action so I'm likely looking at picking up a factory rifle to get me in the game and going from there. Wondering what everyone's experiences are that can lend to some good advice. I was leaning toward .223 as its less expensive and will allow me to practice more often, although a buddy of mine shoots .308 and we had talked about going in on reloading components together.

I'm not sure the exact distance I'll be able to shoot out to but I suspect it'll be somewhere in the 700/800 range. I've looked at a few different rifles, including the Ruger Predator and Savage offerings. Curious as to which route may be best. I like to tinker and would prefer the option for AICS mags down the road. However I have heard that Remington quality has sunk as of late and would probably steer clear if that's the case.

Thanks and hope to hear from you guys!

I had competed in F T/R for many years with a 223 Rem.
I now compete with a 308W only because 80% of our tournaments are 800 to 1,000 yards at Nokomis, SK.
We rarely use our 300m, 500 yard & 600 yard mounds anymore.

My experience with 223 was that it kept up (kind of... sort of ... in theory) with the 308s upto the 500 yards (600 on a good day). And this was achieved with highly tuned reloaded ammo using high BC projectiles.
Factory 223 ammo (even if its quality) generally will do very poorly at 500 yards.

So IMO... if your looking at 700 - 800 yards, then don't bother with 223 Rem or any other 22 cal no matter how "beefy" (22-250 etc).

I don't do PRS -yet.

I am planning on branching out to the sport in the next 2-3 years while still doing F Class.

When I do, I'm thinking 6.5x47 Lapua, 6 Dasher, 6.5 Creed... from what I understand, these are the calibers that most guys use (at shorter ranges as well).

 

[adamg]

I think if I was trying to do this on a budget, I would go 6.5CM in either a Savage 110 Elite Precision or a Ruger Precision Rifle.

 

[Johnny Boom]

I had competed in F T/R for many years with a 223 Rem.
I now compete with a 308W only because 80% of our tournaments are 800 to 1,000 yards at Nokomis, SK.
We rarely use our 300m, 500 yard & 600 yard mounds anymore.

My experience with 223 was that it kept up (kind of... sort of ... in theory) with the 308s upto the 500 yards (600 on a good day). And this was achieved with highly tuned reloaded ammo using high BC projectiles.
Factory 223 ammo (even if its quality) generally will do very poorly at 500 yards.

So IMO... if your looking at 700 - 800 yards, then don't bother with 223 Rem or any other 22 cal no matter how "beefy" (22-250 etc).

I don't do PRS -yet.

I am planning on branching out to the sport in the next 2-3 years while still doing F Class.

When I do, I'm thinking 6.5x47 Lapua, 6 Dasher, 6.5 Creed... from what I understand, these are the calibers that most guys use (at shorter ranges as well).

I agree with your comment regarding most factory 223 ammo, but high BC bullets, long throats, and handloads make it a different game.

In the good 'ol days, (2019) we had a PRS Club series at Petawawa that was shot out to about 700 yards depending on which range we were on. Only 223 or 308 could be used due to range restrictions. Most shooters, including the top finishers shot 223.

As for a "beefy" 22 cal, 22 BR with 95 gr SMKs is suitable for PRS, but I would not reccomend it for beginners.

 

[Mystic Precision]

Old thread, but as a newbie here I am reading everything I can to learn. I had similar questions as the OP about how to get into PRS with a very limited budget.

I was thinking about starting with the Tikka action I already have, as several folks have recommended. The action is currently on the factory Stainless Varmint model in .260 Rem. Its not suitable for PRS as-is because it only has the 5 round plastic mag, so it would need a new chassis or stock for capability for 10-rd AICS style mags. So I am saving money for that conversion.

I was thinking of chambering the new barrel in 6.5x47 Lapua, and when more funds became available, buying a 2nd barrel in 6x47 Lapua. As I understand (correct me if I am wrong), I can use the 6.5 dies to reload both cartridges by changing the neck sizing bushings?

I know swapping barrels back and forth would be a hassle, and two sets of go/no-go gauges are not cheap, which challenges the idea of one set of dies saving money.

I have read alot of good things about the 6 and 6.5 x47 L. It might even work for F-Class if I had nothing else? (But I hear the bigger high BC 7mm calibers are dominating F-Class these days).

Drop your Tikka into an XRS stock... ballast to the moon... give it a try. There is nothing wrong with the 260rem... just back off max loads and see if you even like the sport.

From there, no shortage of prefit options to suit any chambering you want. I lean to the Creedmoor family cause the supply is massive but all options are possible.

Me, I run a 22 Creedmoor, throttled down, Sierra 95gr MKs. Super easy to tune and performance to at least 1450yds is fantastic

Best thing to do is just get out and see what the game is all about. Learning to do the positional/barricade stuff will require a bunch of shooting so don't worry about what barrel you start with... it ain't going to be on your rifle for long.

Jerry

 

[rugbydave]

Old thread, but as a newbie here I am reading everything I can to learn. I had similar questions as the OP about how to get into PRS with a very limited budget.

I was thinking about starting with the Tikka action I already have, as several folks have recommended. The action is currently on the factory Stainless Varmint model in .260 Rem. Its not suitable for PRS as-is because it only has the 5 round plastic mag, so it would need a new chassis or stock for capability for 10-rd AICS style mags. So I am saving money for that conversion.

I was thinking of chambering the new barrel in 6.5x47 Lapua, and when more funds became available, buying a 2nd barrel in 6x47 Lapua. As I understand (correct me if I am wrong), I can use the 6.5 dies to reload both cartridges by changing the neck sizing bushings?

I know swapping barrels back and forth would be a hassle, and two sets of go/no-go gauges are not cheap, which challenges the idea of one set of dies saving money.

I have read alot of good things about the 6 and 6.5 x47 L. It might even work for F-Class if I had nothing else? (But I hear the bigger high BC 7mm calibers are dominating F-Class these days).

I'd suggest just dropping your .260 into a chassis, the MDT XRS is a fantastic option that is very reasonably priced. It will be a great setup to start learning the ins and outs of PRS-style shooting. When you burn out the barrel, replace it with the contour and chambering of your choice.

As to new chamberings, the 6 and 6.5x47 are great, I personally use the equivalent Creedmoor calibers but really just for the availability of factory ammo in a pinch/when travelling. You can use the same sizing dies (with different bushings), not sure on whether the seating dies would also work. The go/no-go gauges are the same for both the 6 and 6.5 variants of that cartridge (same goes for the equivalent Creedmoor cartridges) as they don't have a neck anyways. I'm not exactly sure on the process of swapping barrels on a Tikka but I swap barrels all the time on Rem 700s and clones and it's a very easy process that takes maybe 10-15 minutes and requires a barrel vise, action wrench and torque wrench.

 

[Munkey1973]

Me, I run a 22 Creedmoor, throttled down, Sierra 95gr MKs. Super easy to tune and performance to at least 1450yds is fantastic

HFSB 1,450 yards !!!

That is impressive... rename it to "22 Howitzer" ?

 

[Biologist]

I'd suggest just dropping your .260 into a chassis, the MDT XRS is a fantastic option that is very reasonably priced. It will be a great setup to start learning the ins and outs of PRS-style shooting. When you burn out the barrel, replace it with the contour and chambering of your choice.

As to new chamberings, the 6 and 6.5x47 are great, I personally use the equivalent Creedmoor calibers but really just for the availability of factory ammo in a pinch/when travelling. You can use the same sizing dies (with different bushings), not sure on whether the seating dies would also work. The go/no-go gauges are the same for both the 6 and 6.5 variants of that cartridge (same goes for the equivalent Creedmoor cartridges) as they don't have a neck anyways. I'm not exactly sure on the process of swapping barrels on a Tikka but I swap barrels all the time on Rem 700s and clones and it's a very easy process that takes maybe 10-15 minutes and requires a barrel vise, action wrench and torque wrench.

Thanks RD! Yes, that is exactly along the lines of what I was thinking with the MDT XRS, or maybe the KRG Bravo. However I keep experiencing the paralysis of analysis researching all the great chassis and stock options for the Tikka out there. I need to stop researching, pick one, and just take the plunge. I have a barrel vice and external action wrench for that first cracking of the legendary tightness of the Tikka factory barrel (may the gods be with me), and internal action wrench, and a big torque wrench so tools-wise I am all set.

Thanks for correcting me on the go/no-go gauges. I gapped out. 6 and 6.5 x 47L are the same

 

[Mystic Precision]

HFSB 1,450 yards !!!

That is impressive... rename it to "22 Howitzer" ?

Here are pics from that day out.



We were shooting a 22 Creedmoor and a 408 CT that day... 30-06 in the middle - hunting rifle so kept things closer

Jerry

 

[rugbydave]

Thanks RD! Yes, that is exactly along the lines of what I was thinking with the MDT XRS, or maybe the KRG Bravo. However I keep experiencing the paralysis of analysis researching all the great chassis and stock options for the Tikka out there. I need to stop researching, pick one, and just take the plunge. I have a barrel vice and external action wrench for that first cracking of the legendary tightness of the Tikka factory barrel (may the gods be with me), and internal action wrench, and a big torque wrench so tools-wise I am all set.

Thanks for correcting me on the go/no-go gauges. I gapped out. 6 and 6.5 x 47L are the same

My pleasure. Personally I prefer the XRS to the Bravo (I've had both) mainly because of the longer forend and just better "feel" but both are great options. It's pretty easy to end up in "analysis paralysis" like you said but just get one and get shooting. You'll be better able to discern what you prefer once you get some experience anyways.

 

[old303]

Thanks RD! Yes, that is exactly along the lines of what I was thinking with the MDT XRS, or maybe the KRG Bravo. However I keep experiencing the paralysis of analysis researching all the great chassis and stock options for the Tikka out there. I need to stop researching, pick one, and just take the plunge. I have a barrel vice and external action wrench for that first cracking of the legendary tightness of the Tikka factory barrel (may the gods be with me), and internal action wrench, and a big torque wrench so tools-wise I am all set.

Thanks for correcting me on the go/no-go gauges. I gapped out. 6 and 6.5 x 47L are the same

Hmmm, yes, I guess it's not just a matter of ordering a prefit barrel. May I ask where one gets the set of tools in Canada, or is this a Brownell's expedition? Are any of these bits Tikka-specific or are they good for other rifles as well?

 

[Biologist]

Hmmm, yes, I guess it's not just a matter of ordering a prefit barrel. May I ask where one gets the set of tools in Canada, or is this a Brownell's expedition? Are any of these bits Tikka-specific or are they good for other rifles as well?

Hi Old303. I obtained all the tools shopping Canadian, online.

External action wrench: Wheeler action wrench #1 for Mauser/flat-bottomed receivers. I am hoping this will work on my Tikka action which has flats. Obtained online from that giant online evil store that shall not be named, only because at the time I could not find an external action wrench anywhere online from a Canadian gun store. (I will always shop first at Canadian gun stores, and pay more if necessary to support them). Its cheap and hoping I only need it once to crack the Finnish famous factory torque.

Barrel vice: Bought a Viper barrel vice from a Canadian store, (not on CGN's dealer list so not naming due to the forum rules). Its not a gunsmith grade with inserts, so I may have to make some inserts and use rosin, but it should work OK for my needs.

Internal (rear entry) Tikka action wrench: Purchased from same Canadian store, (not on CGN's dealer list so not naming it). Tikka specific. And they say it is made in Canada, so that's good. However soon after I purchased this immediately I had some regrets because I discovered the new modular action wrench system from Short Action Customs that recently came into being, and Go Big Tactical here sells this SAC system. I probably would have bought the SAC system from GBT, starting with the Tikka T3 head, if I had known it was coming.

Torque wrench: Purchased a DeWalt 100 ft pound torque wrench and socket for the action from local hardware store. From what I read the torque for action to barrel is supposed to be about 75 ft pounds.