setting headspace on 10-22

I'd be more inclined to dump the barrel rather than the bolt. That chamfer looks to me to be contributing more to the blown case than the few thou extra of depth of the bolt face.
Set your caliper to read .0025 inches. It's not a lot of extra space, and while it may be out of spec, it's not liable to be the cause of your issues.

Like as not, you just got unlucky with the lottery of case manufacturing, but adding a little extra headspace, and a lot of unsupported area at the chamber, and you are like to get the same unlucky experience in the future.
If all your cases are showing the same swelling, that seems to me like a pretty obvious sign of a problem. I would suggest that the brass started flowing to fill the available space, and ruptured as it was flowing in to the extractor groove.

It's one thing to take all the sharp edges off, another completely, to countersink the chamber to the point that it leaves the brass unsupported.

That's my two bits, anyways. For $700, I cannot fathom being happy with a chamber that leaves the brass deforming on every shot.

Maybe a chat with both part suppliers is in order...

well im kinda with you it is an IBI barrel, and a very expensive one at that. with the ruger bolt it does leave a bulge all the way around allright
 
I tried enlarging the image, but I cannot tell if the case on the right has the same expansion ahead of the rim as the case on the left. Examine the mouth of the chamber. Is it chamfered?

it leaves expantion, but clearly not as much. its like the chamber has been cut wrong
 
Some of the competition chambers are cut tighter and might not fit all brands, especially of cheap ammo. Does IBI document what brands they design/test for?
 
Take a friggin picture of the rear of the chamber...make it a close up with good lighting... we keep talking about the chamfer but you don't really answer it...
 
well im kinda with you it is an IBI barrel, and a very expensive one at that. with the ruger bolt it does leave a bulge all the way around allright

Yeah, for the money paid out, I'd be PO'd and trying not to scream at whoever I spoke to on the phone...

The joys of playing 'pick-a-part' eh?

There is no need for the chamber to have any significant amount of material cut off around it. It just needs to not be a sharp edge.

The guy in the link above, did his bolt with a disk sander. I would figure that if you built a wooden jig to hold the bolt and to guide the angle, you could do what needs, with some wet or dry on a flat block of wood, if you were keen to muck about with the bolt, but I'd start with a chat with the company there too, and see what they have to say about the headspace they are trying to make the bolts to.
 
Yeah, for the money paid out, I'd be PO'd and trying not to scream at whoever I spoke to on the phone...

The joys of playing 'pick-a-part' eh?

There is no need for the chamber to have any significant amount of material cut off around it. It just needs to not be a sharp edge.

The guy in the link above, did his bolt with a disk sander. I would figure that if you built a wooden jig to hold the bolt and to guide the angle, you could do what needs, with some wet or dry on a flat block of wood, if you were keen to muck about with the bolt, but I'd start with a chat with the company there too, and see what they have to say about the headspace they are trying to make the bolts to.

screaming doesnt help anything
 
screaming doesnt help anything

Thusly, I said "trying not to scream"!

Yeah, I'd be interested to see a decent picture of that Chamfer on the barrel too.

It'd make it a lot easier to guess what exactly is going on.

If you can, measure the depth and diameter.
 
ok pic of the chamber area

Jub4Di2.jpg


unfired rem case right above rim. useing a factory ruger bolt that pocket depth is .0425

l8OO73g.jpg


measure fired case

eFhsj2P.jpg


same fired case

DoRXsj2.jpg


a few fired cases

yFZfZN7.jpg
 
That's pretty craptacular work for what you paid.

I'd suggest that a chat with the barrel maker is in order. As well as the folks that made the aftermarket bolt.

If they wash their hands of it, someone with a lathe can skim the chamber face and the seating surface of the barrel by the same amounts, and do a better job of the chamfer.
The extractor groove may need to be deepened similarly.
 
ok pic of the chamber area

Jub4Di2.jpg

That is your biggest problem right there... more than the slight headspace is... get that fixed and I'll bet you will be good to go...

.22 rim fire chambers should not be chamfered ... they only need the smallest amount of radius so the case is fully (or close to it) supported... just a polished very small radius so the case doesn't 'shave' on feeding into the chamber.
 
IBI says send her back we will fix you up

I am sure they will... it is probably a bit of an embarrassment it left them that way... but everyone is human and can make mistakes... it how you stand behind what you do that matters.
 
IBI says send her back we will fix you up

That's both good to hear, and, well, disappointing...

Hope that they sort you out and make good!
And.
Wish you didn't have to go through this.

As guntech says, just enough of a rounding of the surface, to make it 'not sharp'! Sharp is bad, but so is having so much of a chamfer that the case loses support!
 
got the barrel back from IBI all fixed up. used a diamond surfacing deck plate and jig to peeled off enough from the face of the bolt to end up with a .0450 pocket depth. put everything back together and tested it out thisaft. 2-300 without a hitch brass is fine now im really glad IBI stepped up
 
Back
Top Bottom