Springfield .45 upgrades?

Curt

Curt

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I bought a Springfield GI .45. I want to buy and install some performance parts and build it up for maximum accuracy. I will not be doing any IPSC or anything like that, but I do like to put 8 rounds through the paper as close to each other as I and the firearm can.
I have a XD45 that I quite like and am getting some great grouping with the right load.
This is my first 1911. What are some places to look for items for 1911, trigger upgrades, sear, hammer, grips etc...? Websites?
 
Curt, Springers usually have descent triggers. What I would do is shoot the pistol, see what accuracy it produces, and go from there. I have a new, to me, Springer Mil Spec and I have spent about a week dry firing it with snap caps in the chamber. Why? Dry firing will smooth up a trigger to some extent. If dry firing doesn't help the trigger I will have a trigger job done. I intend to shoot it tomorrow and see how it functions and groups. If it has a problem grouping I will have a match barrel bushing done. I am not big on a lot of bells and whistles on a handgun, remember KISS. Many accessories do not help the function of a handgun. Regards, Richard:D

My idea of a damned near perfect 1911A1:
2NorincoLeftSide.jpg
 
I usually replace simple and important parts. First thing to go is the extranctor. I install a Wilson Combat "Bullet-proof" extractor and two-piece full length guide rod...this helps in reliability a little.
 
Pietro Beretta said:
I usually replace simple and important parts. First thing to go is the extranctor. I install a Wilson Combat "Bullet-proof" extractor and two-piece full length guide rod...this helps in reliability a little.
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Pietro Beretta,

I see no purpose for a two-piece full length guide rod other than it keeps a machine operator working and makes profits for the manufacturer. I have yet to see an improvement in accuracy/reliability that is related to a two-piece full length guide rod. Remember, 1911s worked and worked well for the 70 years prior to the invention of the two-piece full length guide rod.

Again, I say shoot the hell out of the damned thing and then see what you need.

Regards,

Richard:D
 
I wouldn't bother replacing internal parts (extractor, firing pin, etc.), unless you are having functioning problems. Why replace a part that's working? Other upgrades like beavertails, ambi safety, grips, sights, etc. can add to the shootability, and are worthwhile. Most guys get parts from Brownells. As far as accuracy goes, really tightening the groups on a Mil-Spec 1911 could involve a new barrel, bushing, slide to frame fit, etc., and that costs $$. You'd be further ahead to buy match grade .45 out of the box, if you want a match grade gun. I learned that from Norinco I built (and now I shoot a Kimber ;)).
 
The only two things I am going to change on my Parkerized loaded are the two piece guide rod is going to be swapped out for a GI rod and plug (tho I have had no malfunctions with the two piece, and it still works when it comes loose, but it keeps coming loose which is the problem. ) and the MSH is going to be changed because I have no need for the ISL locking system that SA put on it. I already changed the grips and all the other money is going towards ammo.
 
scotty said:
The only two things I am going to change on my Parkerized loaded are the two piece guide rod is going to be swapped out for a GI rod and plug (tho I have had no malfunctions with the two piece, and it still works when it comes loose, but it keeps coming loose which is the problem. ) and the MSH is going to be changed because I have no need for the ISL locking system that SA put on it. I already changed the grips and all the other money is going towards ammo.
Click to expand...

I ignore the ISL, why spend money on replacing it? It dosen't affect anything else? Put a drop of blue locktite on the threads if it keeps coming lose, but neither of my two ever have, are you tightening it enough? You're biggest accuracy improvement will come from a fitted barrel and bushing. Spend the money you'd spend on a trigger job and frame to slide fit on practice ammo and dry fire practice (though that should be cheap). Even just fitting a thighter bushing to the factory barrel will make a large difference, springers normally lock up pretty tight as from the factory. If you aren't going to shoot bullseye, you really don't need to do anything.
 
On my Springer MilSpec, I replaced the ILS Mainspring Housing for flat checkered puppy, smaller grip that way. Then I swapped the factory walnut grips for a pair of Pearce Thin grips, slab rubber version. I like a hollow hammer so on went some Wilson Combat : hammer, sear, and safety goodies. Whoops, I forgot to mention the Wilson Drop-in beavertail, I often experience the stock factory USGI grip safety biting into the web of my hand. The Wilson Beavertail safety is much more comfortable and it is such a snap to have installed. :p

Everything else... like the innards...I kept factory stock and shot the pistol like mad. :D

Now I bought a Kimber (read: Ciener) conversion .22 LR kit so that I can train with this platform through the winter months. I'll sweep up the brass when the snow melts in March. :p

Enjoy your Springer....
 
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Hungry, you make a good point when you say: "...on went some Wilson Combat : hammer, sear, and safety goodies." Why? I was at the range with two pretty stock 1911s and I have a fair to middling hammer bite mark on the web of my shooting hand. Regards, Richard:D
 
Full- length guide rods prevents spring binding and smoother/consistant movement of action.

Why do they have them then....for f*ck'n looks ???
Why were they invented, why not stick with original G.I. version?

Why does everbody ditch their factory guide rods in an M14, and install a Badger Ordnance MATCH spring guide for smoother cycling ???

Mabee YOU should contact the LAPD, FBI, and USMC... WENDELL, cause I bet they got tricked out 1911-A1's with all the "upgrades"

I love posting on this site to see all the uptight experts give their opinion :)
 
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