Winchester 100 Broken Walnut Stock - Suggested Repair Services in GTA/East Ontario

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bob jingle

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Hello all,

I have a 1969 Winchester 100 Carbine in .308 that has a walnut stock with a fairly clean break forward of the action with a couple smaller wood shards to epoxy back together. The stock's in two major pieces and fits together pretty seamlessly at the break points.

I could do the epoxy job myself but want to restore the functional strength of the stock as best as possible so can use the firearm properly again - any suggested repairers/gunsmiths in the eastern GTA region or eastern Ontario?

Thanks for any suggestions.


Bob J.
 
Hi Rob,

I've been through their shop before and picked up a couple things but never before used their repair service. Good group in my experience and may have to give them a call.
I was also thinking of trying to source a good custom furniture shop that may have the expertise in bonding wood materials but they may not be appropriate for taking into account stresses from repeated firing.
 
How did it get broken? That's a fairly odd place to break... (granted I am not familiar with the model)

If you decide to take it on yourself use a quality PVA wood glue - far better than an epoxy for wood to wood applications. (epoxy excels at bonding dissimilar materials)

Might need a bowtie or finger joint to restore original strength.
 
bob jingle said:
Hello all,

I have a 1969 Winchester 100 Carbine in .308 that has a walnut stock with a fairly clean break forward of the action with a couple smaller wood shards to epoxy back together. The stock's in two major pieces and fits together pretty seamlessly at the break points.

I could do the epoxy job myself but want to restore the functional strength of the stock as best as possible so can use the firearm properly again - any suggested repairers/gunsmiths in the eastern GTA region or eastern Ontario?

Thanks for any suggestions.


Bob J.
Click to expand...

What ever you do DO NOT USE EPOXY .Leave it to a pro epoxy requires a glue joint so if you clamp it tight so you cant see it , it will have no strength because you starve the joint .You need a penetrating glue like cyanoacrylate so you can clamp the joint tight .There are various thicknesses available at a wood working store .You may also need to add reinforcing pins in conspicuous places as well to back it up .
 
Heh, sean69, well first time user dissassembly and tried to force reassembly into the mono-stock when the action was getting stubborn....after an hour+ following a detailed YouTube video on reassembly with no success, tried forcing it in and had a shattering surprise!...FML on that one
 
Awesome, good to know to avoid epoxy for strength restoration. Thanks for the tip G.E. and this is a good reason I don't want to take on the effort myself, precision repair's not my wheelhouse.
 
I would try Titebond III
It is a very good water proof glue for woodworking and you can clamp it as tight as you can get it

After that sets, I would be inclined to add a couple bow ties

Or just buy an aftermarket stock...you should be able to find one. Try Numrich or Western Gun Parts

Depending of how far forward of the action (in front of the recoil lug) it is not taking much stress anyway assuming it is what I think it is (a one piece stock and fore end, with the barrel free floating)
 
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I'll take a look into that Titebond III product, could be promising...again, my lack of expertise in this area means I'd rather not touch the project myself. I'd have to research a bowtie for firearms to know what it is.

Would any local gunsmith typically have the expertise to get this project done?...am happy to pair a fair price for quality work, does not look like a complicated wood job but also don't want to pay any money for a hack job.
 
bob jingle said:
Heh, sean69, well first time user dissassembly and tried to force reassembly into the mono-stock when the action was getting stubborn....after an hour+ following a detailed YouTube video on reassembly with no success, tried forcing it in and had a shattering surprise!...FML on that one
Click to expand...

Wow - really? there may have been a defect in the stock to begin with, a hairline crack maybe? Seems like assembling/disassembling should not cause such grief!

Titebond III is about the best you can use - I use it for all wood applications. (well ~ almost)

Here is an example of a finger joint on a Mosin Nagant - I would not even try this myself ... probably not even if I had the right tools!

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Lets see some pics - there may be some other options, if there is enough meat there and the fore end does not really take up any recoil you may be able to relieve the barrel channel a bit and add some new material then re-profile it.

As far as a pro to deal with it ... ppppfffffffffttt.... hummm... mmmm... I have no real idea. A couple guys were mentioned, there is another guy somewhat east of here (London I think) that was featured in a recent calibre magazine. Furniture repair places is probably a decent start... I would also look at the local wood working and carving clubs - as well as woodworking schools. canadianwoodworking.ca has some forums where you will definitely get some opinions - possibly find someone to fix as well.
 
G.E.FLACH said:
What ever you do DO NOT USE EPOXY .Leave it to a pro epoxy requires a glue joint so if you clamp it tight so you cant see it , it will have no strength because you starve the joint .You need a penetrating glue like cyanoacrylate so you can clamp the joint tight .There are various thicknesses available at a wood working store .You may also need to add reinforcing pins in conspicuous places as well to back it up .
Click to expand...

Exactly which cyanoacrylate doe you recommend?
 
sean69 said:
Wow - really? there may have been a defect in the stock to begin with, a hairline crack maybe? Seems like assembling/disassembling should not cause such grief!...
Click to expand...
The Model 100's forend is very thin-walled to allow for the recoil/action bar assembly to move on firing. The carbine uses a barrel band to mate the stock and front end together. The rifle uses a stud/swivel through the forend that threads into a dovetailed escutcheon ahead of the gas block.
 
gunrunner100 said:
The Model 100's forend is very thin-walled to allow for the recoil/action bar assembly to move on firing. The carbine uses a barrel band to mate the stock and front end together. The rifle uses a stud/swivel through the forend that threads into a dovetailed escutcheon ahead of the gas block.
Click to expand...

EEEK! Sounds like a tricky fix then!
 
Titebond requires glue in the joint in order to bond as well .So if you clamp it tight all the strength of the glue is gone .I have repaired a lot off expensive gun stocks over the years and there is only one type or glue for strength and invisible repairs as I previously posted .Believe me I have tried them all .
 
I have used the cyanoacrylate glue in many, many stocks over the last 20 yrs or so.
I have not had a failure yet in the glued wood.
I use the Hotstuff from Lee Valley. It comes in a few viscosities. I see other brands with more choices of viscosity at hobby stores.

I generally like the thinnest stuff and I usually use a needle from the pharmacy (not too small of a bore ) and inject it into very small cracks.
It is amazing where it comes out as you inject it ....somewhere else where the crack extends that no other glue or epoxy would get to and that you would not see.

I use surgical tubing to get it all very tight and ready. This works best when it is a crack that can be tightened without big gaps. And try for a clean unmolested crack inside.

Also, I try and put paste wax where I do not want it to stick, as well as on clamps and the tubing.

When you get the glue, get the remover as well. Keep it ready as you may need to get your fingers unstuck and get it off of where you did not want it to go.
It can run fast and stain your stock so be careful and ready to clean or refinish the stock if you have to.
 
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Working with wood is an art of sorts. The thing is to do more planning than doing. Doing it wrong sends you further down the rabbit hole.

I've had a few bad ones, and between Larry Potterfield and Anvil, Gorilla glue, bedding compound and waterproof carpenters glue I got her done. Glues need to suit the job, whether you need shear strength or compression or elongation.

T4bHM1T.jpg


This 1897 had a issues and bad or wrong wood. The only forend I had was in 3 or 4 pieces. The butt stock was cracked like crazy. I made brass pins for the butt stock and a jig to hold the forend pieces together. Hint: remove oil with acetone;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAMspI1BeyI&ab_channel=MidwayUSA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKeOQVsyRMU&ab_channel=MarkNovak

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And then there was this poorly repaired blow out.

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This one had the wrist reinforced, rear pillar repair, reinforced between trigger and magazine, and the recoil lug cross reinforced. Recheckered and refinished as well.

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If you could share some pictures I'm sure you would get a few specific repair tips.
 
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