scope losing zero

wkp774

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My cheap line bushnell on a 22 wmr keeps losing zero, had a pro reinstall with levels and torque tools held the longest but missed 2 beavers last night and was 8 clicks off to the left at 25 yards. I blame it on the scope rings or should i just buy a new scope but i like this one? Any recommendations? Its a 40mm scope so i think it should handle a wmr.
 
It certainly could be your optic if you have had someone knowledgeable check it for you. Can you move the POI away and back to zero? How many shots do you think it takes to drift it? Shoot paper to verify, not beavers. Take 10-20 shots at the same point of aim. See how or if it drifts.

Depending on how old it is, there could be no questions asked warranty on it.

The 40mm is strictly talking about the objective size. You have a 1” tube on that optic.
 
When i missed last night i zeroed it back with a target, been about 40 shots since last setup and it seems to happen out of the blue, fine for a long time then way off, used to get loose until i got it torqued down. Night before was hitting targets at 70 yards then missing at 20.
 
Ship it back to Bushnell with $10.00 and you will get a new one back. But then shipping will be $20.00 as well. Check the value of the scope to see if it is worth it to you. For $30.00 you may be able to find a used one that holds zero.
 
No clue what your issue is, but maybe read up on parallax?? If you are using a centerfire cheap Bushnell - could be set by factory for 125 or 150 yard parallax - then you are using it for 20 yard shots? Would be all on your cheek placement on the stock. To check for parallax sighting error - set rifle on something solid - rifle not moving, not able to wiggle. Then aim at a target, at distance of interest - now move your head up and down or side to side. If there is parallax error, the cross hairs will appear to move against the target. I have a Leupold 2-7x28 rimfire scope - parallax free set for 60 yards as per the Leupold book - at 15 yards, if I go extreme one side (so I start to see some black in the view) to extreme the other way, easy move the cross hair more than an inch on that target.

I also have a Bushnell scope that "broke" - started to sight in one on a 303 British - holes just kept walking right, even though I was adjusting the windage turret to bring them back - nope - just continued right - further and further each time I fired. That scope was replaced.
 
No clue what your issue is, but maybe read up on parallax?? If you are using a centerfire cheap Bushnell - could be set by factory for 125 or 150 yard parallax - then you are using it for 20 yard shots? Would be all on your cheek placement on the stock. To check for parallax sighting error - set rifle on something solid - rifle not moving, not able to wiggle. Then aim at a target, at distance of interest - now move your head up and down or side to side. If there is parallax error, the cross hairs will appear to move against the target. I have a Leupold 2-7x28 rimfire scope - parallax free set for 60 yards as per the Leupold book - at 15 yards, if I go extreme one side (so I start to see some black in the view) to extreme the other way, easy move the cross hair more than an inch on that target.

I also have a Bushnell scope that "broke" - started to sight in one on a 303 British - holes just kept walking right, even though I was adjusting the windage turret to bring them back - nope - just continued right - further and further each time I fired. That scope was replaced.

This is good info and should be examined before sending the scope away or buying another. If the scope is intended for centerfire it is likely parallax free at 100 yds so using on typical rimfire targets (50-60 yds) may cause sufficient movement to believe your scope is not holding zero. When I started shooting my Ruger 10/22 (many years ago) I didn't understand this and it seemed every time I used my scope/gun set up it had moved. On the other hand your scope may in fact be pooched. Good luck. Phil.
 
No clue what your issue is, but maybe read up on parallax?? If you are using a centerfire cheap Bushnell - could be set by factory for 125 or 150 yard parallax - then you are using it for 20 yard shots? Would be all on your cheek placement on the stock. To check for parallax sighting error - set rifle on something solid - rifle not moving, not able to wiggle. Then aim at a target, at distance of interest - now move your head up and down or side to side. If there is parallax error, the cross hairs will appear to move against the target. I have a Leupold 2-7x28 rimfire scope - parallax free set for 60 yards as per the Leupold book - at 15 yards, if I go extreme one side (so I start to see some black in the view) to extreme the other way, easy move the cross hair more than an inch on that target.

I also have a Bushnell scope that "broke" - started to sight in one on a 303 British - holes just kept walking right, even though I was adjusting the windage turret to bring them back - nope - just continued right - further and further each time I fired. That scope was replaced.
Thanks a million for explaining parallax something I never understood, but as I see it not my issue, I go from shooting three beavers to missing five the next, I am starting to think its the way I lay the rifle to rest aka scope issue, starting to doubt crappy rings. I swear when I parked it for the winter it was dead on and first shot in the spring like no sights.
 
I agree that one possibility is parallax, given the short distance you mentioned.

A common way to induce parallax is to use the scope’s higher magnification range at distances much closer than the factory parallax-free distance. You mentioned the problem was at 25 yards — do you recall what the scope’s magnification was at?

As an example, a 3-9x Bushnell that’s parallax-free at 100 yards can have significant parallax error using 9x at 50 yards, but negligible error using 3x at 50 yards. The error can also change from shot to shot, causing much frustration.

So unless your scope has side focus or an adjustable objective to dial out the parallax (i.e. put the reticle and target images on the same focal plane), then it’s a good idea to use lower magnification at closer ranges to minimize parallax error — a secondary benefit will be the larger field of view.

But not sure if any of that applies in your case?
 
I agree that one possibility is parallax, given the short distance you mentioned.

A common way to induce parallax is to use the scope’s higher magnification range at distances much closer than the factory parallax-free distance. You mentioned the problem was at 25 yards — do you recall what the scope’s magnification was at?

As an example, a 3-9x Bushnell that’s parallax-free at 100 yards can have significant parallax error using 9x at 50 yards, but negligible error using 3x at 50 yards. The error can also change from shot to shot, causing much frustration.

So unless your scope has side focus or an adjustable objective to dial out the parallax (i.e. put the reticle and target images on the same focal plane), then it’s a good idea to use lower magnification at closer ranges to minimize parallax error — a secondary benefit will be the larger field of view.

But not sure if any of that applies in your case?

Do most shooting at 3x some at 4.5 doesnt focus above that, maybe a sign of something? Guess i will try the simmons.
 
The only information that I can take from this is: 1). Cheap Bushnell, and 2) 22 WMR.
There are cheap Bushnell's and there are even cheaper one's on a rifle scope package.
The cheap scopes are cheap for a reason and they will withstand very little adjustment.
Many of the scopes that were put together for a combo are not warrantied.
The 22 WMR is not known for great accuracy. No one has ever Brough one to our Rimfire matches.
Other basics that are not mentioned: Make of rifle and model.
Rings and bases.
Ammunition: Make and bullet weights.
A friend asked me to analyze his accuracy problems. He brought a box of ammo made up of what he had been using. Of the 20 rounds there was round nose and pointed, factory and handloads and two military plus two that appeared to be 168 grain match.

Without answers to the questions my best guest might be the nut that holds the gun or the jerk that pulls the trigger . . . common accuracy problems!
 
The only information that I can take from this is: 1). Cheap Bushnell, and 2) 22 WMR.
There are cheap Bushnell's and there are even cheaper one's on a rifle scope package.
The cheap scopes are cheap for a reason and they will withstand very little adjustment.
Many of the scopes that were put together for a combo are not warrantied.
The 22 WMR is not known for great accuracy. No one has ever Brough one to our Rimfire matches.
Other basics that are not mentioned: Make of rifle and model.
Rings and bases.
Ammunition: Make and bullet weights.
A friend asked me to analyze his accuracy problems. He brought a box of ammo made up of what he had been using. Of the 20 rounds there was round nose and pointed, factory and handloads and two military plus two that appeared to be 168 grain match.

Without answers to the questions my best guest might be the nut that holds the gun or the jerk that pulls the trigger . . . common accuracy problems!

Agree cheap is cheap. I have no problems with 22wmr for accuracy long shot is 75 yards, Owned said rifle 35 years shot fine for 30 years until crosshairs on first scope split. I think this scope is a rcmp auction prize, as to ammo got 2000 rounds of the same stuff. Ordered a new tasco.
 
I bought one Simmons scope... new in the box... and it didn't work well at all. Never bought another one and never will.

The Hawke line of scopes has worked well for me on rim fires... and of course Leupold rim fire scopes.
 
The only Simmons scope I seen worth a second look was the Simmons Whitetail brand of scope from early 2000s. Pretty good not excellent but pretty good.
Same as those Japanese built EXP series of hunting scopes and binos built by World Class (Tasco?) about the same time frame early 2000s.

But these devious companies spend good money with a reputable optics company for the first few years.
Then when American advertising reports on it very well the fix is in.
Expenditure investment suddenly drops. Manufacturing switches from Japan to Korea or China.
Quality assurance drops without warning.
Hence u have a Simmons scope of okay quality but five years newer the same name brand of junk built in China.

Is how companies build profit with minimal effort.
Zero consideration to the consumer. In fact it's international pocket picking with no legal repercussions.
 
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