Rem 700 sps throws random fliers updated post 51

Icehunter - I do not know if this is an option for you?? I have a 458 Win Mag - Zastava M70 - huge gap behind magazine box to wood. Inletting much larger than needed to be. Also, very large mortice cut out for that big trigger assembly. Wood bulkhead behind mag well had crack all the way through to the trigger slot - nothing holding that stock sides together from recoil area ahead of magazine box to behind the trigger slot. So whittled up a "form" - coated with wax - installed in place of that magazine box - blocked off the bottom and filled with epoxy - also hacked up and roughed up the wood bulkhead to increase grip - ended up another form in that big trigger area because I replaced with a much smaller mil surp unit - so a lot of epoxy went in there to glue sides together and to fill space. Might be a possibility for you to fill those gaps within that synthetic stock, if it is worth three ounces of so of epoxy?? Might not be? Would need significant roughening and/or anchor holes since I doubt any epoxy will stick to that synthetic material? Have to make "mechanical locks", I would guess??
 
Right on! Happy to hear you discovered that and interesting to kno!

I'd kind of used "bedding" as a catch-all for stock to metal fit
 
Icehunter - thinking more - starting to hurt!!! So, I have some "bedding clearance tape" from Brownells - about 2" wide - .010" thick - so almost 3 layers of computer printer paper thick. Could gloop release agent all over your metal stuff - maybe 4 or 5 or 10 layers of computer printer paper around that metal magazine box. Fill the space between stock and paper with epoxy. When it is set the layers should allow you to pull the magazine box out and all the layers - forgot - need release on the outer most layer or clear packing tape - something the epoxy won't stick to. Gives you as minimal clearance as you want around the mag box - would think most type of epoxy would add "stiffness" to your stock? Mostly from book here on Mausers but do not think is a good idea to have mag box "tight" in stock or to metal - needs some "wiggle" space?
 
has anyone mentioned the barrel heating up I read a couple of posts but not all of them - am sure if you shoot all three rounds without the barrel cooling down you may get what your getting
 
IvoB said:
has anyone mentioned the barrel heating up I read a couple of posts but not all of them - am sure if you shoot all three rounds without the barrel cooling down you may get what your getting
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From previous and other dealings with OP, that would surprise me if he got "caught" by that phenomonon - but who knows. I find the issue interesting, because he is "caught" exactly where I would be - and my personal selfish view is that I would like to hear how he makes out resolving his issues, so that I might use that idea one day!!!
 
were all your loads tested after you did your forend work? reason i ask is my sps stock is stiffened up but i retained the pressure point, with good results.
 
Potashminer said:
Icehunter - thinking more - starting to hurt!!! So, I have some "bedding clearance tape" from Brownells - about 2" wide - .010" thick - so almost 3 layers of computer printer paper thick. Could gloop release agent all over your metal stuff - maybe 4 or 5 or 10 layers of computer printer paper around that metal magazine box. Fill the space between stock and paper with epoxy. When it is set the layers should allow you to pull the magazine box out and all the layers - forgot - need release on the outer most layer or clear packing tape - something the epoxy won't stick to. Gives you as minimal clearance as you want around the mag box - would think most type of epoxy would add "stiffness" to your stock? Mostly from book here on Mausers but do not think is a good idea to have mag box "tight" in stock or to metal - needs some "wiggle" space?
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I already was thinking of that. But I was also thinking of cutting some thin stainless sheeting and making a small plate and epoxy that to the side walls. My second idea was to make a "box" out of stainless or even aluminum that fits the side walls all the way around, just like the mag box but bigger and epoxy that in place. Make it rectangular so that the rounded corners on the inside of the stock get filled right up with epoxy. 3rd idea is like you mentioned using the mag box wrapped in pipeline tape, 1 or 2 wraps and then release agent and epoxy to fill the walls in. Definitely a guy wants the mag box to not be tight inside of the stock as this will cause another stress point.
 
IvoB said:
has anyone mentioned the barrel heating up I read a couple of posts but not all of them - am sure if you shoot all three rounds without the barrel cooling down you may get what your getting
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Once the barrels were getting"warm" they were allowed to cool right down. On the 2nd go around I even was giving both rifles 8-10 minutes between shots.
 
351 power said:
were all your loads tested after you did your forend work? reason i ask is my sps stock is stiffened up but i retained the pressure point, with good results.
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The first round of tests were with the rifle bedded and the barrel free floated with pressure points removed. I have always found that with a synthetic stock free floating was the way to go. The 2nd time I went out was when the forend was reinforced.
 
351 power said:
were all your loads tested after you did your forend work? reason i ask is my sps stock is stiffened up but i retained the pressure point, with good results.
Click to expand...

Just thinking about that again..I am going to rebed that last 1/2 inch of forend so the barrel is sitting on it and try it again. But I am only going to load up the test loads that have given me the so called "best results to date"! Save on some slugs and powder!!
 
icehunter121 said:
Just thinking about that again..I am going to rebed that last 1/2 inch of forend so the barrel is sitting on it and try it again. But I am only going to load up the test loads that have given me the so called "best results to date"! Save on some slugs and powder!!
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Had read John Barsness doing that - with layers of business card / thin, hard cardboard - to find out if it worked or not - pretty certain was in an article of his about "improving" a No. 1 Ruger - easy to do when at a shooting table, I guess - in that instance he was using end flaps off a cartridge box to see whether it made a difference on that rifle or not... Was totally temporary - was just to see if "up pressure" (not just "sitting on it") made a difference or not.

And, in his case that he wrote the article about, the "up pressure" won out. I did the same with epoxy on my own No. 1 - needed a spacer in the barrel channel and that front fore arm mounting screw left loose while epoxy set up - removed spacer and tightened up forearm screw - and it also worked on mine - a 1A 7x57.
 
Potashminer said:
Had read John Barsness doing that - with layers of business card / thin, hard cardboard - to find out if it worked or not - pretty certain was in an article of his about "improving" a No. 1 Ruger - easy to do when at a shooting table, I guess - in that instance he was using end flaps off a cartridge box to see whether it made a difference on that rifle or not... Was totally temporary - was just to see if "up pressure" (not just "sitting on it") made a difference or not.

And, in his case that he wrote the article about, the "up pressure" won out. I did the same with epoxy on my own No. 1 - needed a spacer in the barrel channel and that front fore arm mounting screw left loose while epoxy set up - removed spacer and tightened up forearm screw - and it also worked on mine - a 1A 7x57.
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But ..but...oh he11 another... but...If I just add business cards without bedding it first to me it wont fix the problem, or at least what I am thinking. With the bedding the barrel will be sitting on it snugly first and not be able to move left/right. It might even slide out a build up of cards under recoil. Fill first,try it then add cards after and try again. Will take way less cards to try upward pressure after. Another thing I noticed in the stocks last night that a wood one is concave shaped in the corners of the front of the mag well. The synthetic are square cornered. Now from all my welding courses before ( autobody tech circa 1990) , stress will follow through on a concave corner weld, square or convex will contain the stress and cause structure failure. If this holds true with plastic then all forces are going straight back and trying to move the recoil lug area straight back and then springing forward. That would cause the very front of the mag walls to bow outwards and then spring forward...Maybe I am over thinking it? I love a challenge even if its not worth it!! ( except for horse chicks..I dont date them anymore!!)

Nother thing..the rear of the stocks at the butt are so thin you can squeeze both sides and flex them like nothing. Maybe fill them with spray foam and let set up for a week or so. It may help take some twist out of the stock and it may not. But since I have 2 cans of foam sitting here it might be worth playing with also. At the very least it will quiet them down and make them sound better then the hollow sound.
 
I've have had good luck holding the forend while shooting lightweight rifles at the bench. This one was spraying them all over the place until I changed how I shot it.

I rest the forend on the shooting rest and hold it with my hand behind the rest. This controls muzzle flip. Make sure the sling studs don't contact the rest or rear bag.

6FWMirXl.jpg


KaUo4qZl.jpg


2c0rkzll.jpg
 
I experienced similar with both my SPS .223 and .308 years back.
I always shoot 5 round groups for precision (10 round groups with irons) for practice and to get a feel for a rifles actual capability.
My 700s always shot 4 rounds consistent and 1 flyer. Never could figure out how or why. It was at the point of driving me crazy enough I was about to leave a camera down range recording at the target to see if the flyer was a consistent shot in the 5 round groups! lol

Even after properly glass bedding both actions in a hardwood stock this persisted with both calibers. It was very frustrating.
My Ruger Ranch in 5.56mm in total stock config is more consistent than both of those rifles were in stock config or post bedding in a good quality stock. Never a flyer that I can't attribute to my own actions on that rifle.
I sold them long ago.
 
SuperCub said:
I've have had good luck holding the forend while shooting lightweight rifles at the bench. This one was spraying them all over the place until I changed how I shot it.

I rest the forend on the shooting rest and hold it with my hand behind the rest. This controls muzzle flip. Make sure the sling studs don't contact the rest or rear bag.

6FWMirXl.jpg


KaUo4qZl.jpg


2c0rkzll.jpg
Click to expand...

This is good advice.
 
SuperCub said:
I've have had good luck holding the forend while shooting lightweight rifles at the bench. This one was spraying them all over the place until I changed how I shot it.

I rest the forend on the shooting rest and hold it with my hand behind the rest. This controls muzzle flip. Make sure the sling studs don't contact the rest or rear bag.

6FWMirXl.jpg


KaUo4qZl.jpg


2c0rkzll.jpg
Click to expand...

Thats the way I usually shoot unless its one of my big bores. Right hand on the rifle and the left hand makes a "V" with thumb and forefinger that then sits against the rear of the front bag. The left hand just lightly holds the forend with no real pressure on it but more of a stabilizing guide.
 
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