Long branch no4mk1

Potashminer said:
I will add my experience, when I was an "enthusiastic" wanna be! So, I turned inserts for my barrel vice from 1.5" aluminum rod on my lathe - matched that taper on the beginning of the No. 4 barrel - promptly discovered that it really helps to have a least one, if not two layers of plain computer printer paper to prevent aluminum smears onto that barrel. "rosin" - like pitchers use, is very, very helpful to get that stuff to grip and not slip. Then, the No. 4 receiver needs a specific shaped action wrench that will apply humungous amount of torque - without touching that spigot for the front (only?) action screw. I used a four foot snipe - lifted my feet off the floor on first attempt. A good "smack" with a dead blow sledge hammer - with tension applied, got it to unscrew. For a split second, I visualized 350 pound gorillas with 13 foot snipes torquing these things up, back in the day. 75 odd years of corrosion probably did not actually help. That was removing the grungy barrel - next ones, I took the time to hacksaw a groove about 3/16" deep, all around about 1/16" ahead of receiver - turned off as if by hand - comparatively speaking. Re-installing a replacement to get new barrel's bayonet lugs / front sight lugs to exact TDC with the rear sight is as fussy as you want to make it. Then deal with head space. And so on...
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Sorry for multi post but I haven’t figured out how to multi-quote

Any links to threads or help with that process?
 
Not sure which process you are asking about? Most of the stuff that I tried was based from what I read here on CGN or from Peter Laidler on Milsurp site - so much is based on having the correct tooling - I do not have what Laidler would have had at a British overhaul base, nor what a "real" gunsmith would have in his shop - had to "make do" with what I could make, or, in some cases, buy. Listen to several threads above - I have many pieces of junk here - "good deals" bought for cheap - I overpaid - receivers are bent or sprung, barrels have bench vice gouges - people tried stuff and did not have the knowledge or tooling to do so correctly - and found a sucker like me to pass off their garbage on to.
 
bob_wuzza said:
Would making the relief cut allow me to remove the good receiver without damage without an action wrench?
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Not always, why take the chance, it depends on how much the threads were deformed on the tenon and the receiver to get the barrel to properly index.

I've done the relief cut method and have still had difficulty taking the receivers off the barrels.
 
A barrel that has had a relief groove cut can be reused - say a sported barrel with a nice bore. The shoulder is turned back, and a breeching washer installed to fill the gap. Works fine.
 
bob_wuzza said:
Would making the relief cut allow me to remove the good receiver without damage without an action wrench?
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I suppose everyone could get lucky once in a while - from the ones here, at some point you will have to apply turning force to that receiver ring - either when getting the old barrel off, or getting a replacement installed, tightened and lined up. Except with a properly fitting receiver wrench, I do not know how to do that without bending, spreading or otherwise damaging that receiver. One here has clear marks inside the bolt race where someone tried unscrewing it with a round bar up from the magazine opening - spread the walls apart, and divots into the sides. Another has significant "teeth" marks - as if someone grabbed that receiver ring with a pipe wrench and turned it. So neither of those ideas are very good. As mentioned above, the receivers are actually much softer than some people think - easily bent - only surface hardened in selected places.

From Laidler's write ups, you can not apply any force against that action screw spigot - according to him, no coming back if that gets bent or squashed or distorted.
 
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bearhunter said:
That means you're going to have to weld up the extractor divot on the face, rechamber, and likely set back the shoulder, cut a new extractor slot etc.

It will likely work well but it won't come out right.

Are the front sight mounting lugs still in place? It may have been one of those large action Martinis that was converted to 22LR? I believe some of those Large actions were purposely built, from new, by companies such as Bonehill, as 22cal target/sporting rifles.

The thread diameter and pitch will be the same but the profile will be wrong.
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well you would be correct if the barrel was installed on the Martini, but it wasn't, it was just partially screwed in and not buggered up. Someones project that was never started.
 
tiriaq said:
A barrel that has had a relief groove cut can be reused - say a sported barrel with a nice bore. The shoulder is turned back, and a breeching washer installed to fill the gap. Works fine.
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I have a Martini that we used that little trick on. You're right, it works very well.
 
buckbrush said:
Is Mr. Laidler still in the Brit. crowbar hotel or is he back among the free folk. He is /was a great information source
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Apparently, you could contact him directly through PM on the milsurp site - I am not concerned about him today, at all - seems to have "0" to do with what he knew or knows about various British armourer practices, including the No. 4 Lee Enfield and others. Let us know how he is doing, these days??
 
Figured I’d piggy back off my post,
Got further into this project. bought 4.5 no4 mk1 to get most of the needed parts. Found reproduction wood at a good price and found these sights today
21AD3E6E-71D1-405C-9A03-2E42DEB75435.jpg
What do they belong to and what are they worth?
The one on the right didn’t click so I’m assuming the spring and ball bearing are missing, any leads on where to find those? Are they serviceable?
 

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The Mk3 sight on the left is correct for a Longbranch No4Mk1*. The Mark 1 sight on the right is correct for the various British made No4s. If the Mark1 sight doesn't click, the detent spring could be broken or the ball detent could just be stuck with dirt. It looks like the sight could stand some cleaning. If missing, find the appropriate size ball bearing and a small spring that fits. To find original parts may be difficult. Another valid rear sight for the Longbranch is the Mark2 sight. This is a simple two position flip sight calibrated for 300 and 600 yards.
 
Charles Stratton, "Lee-Enfield No.4 and No. 5 Rifles" - page 64 - has chart of which rear sights used by which makers in which years. I can not confirm whether his data is perfectly correct or not. Long Branch: 41-42 used MK 1; 42-43 used Mk 2; 43-44 used C Mk3; 44-45 used C Mk4. On page 4, Stratton says that the change over from No. 4 Mk.1 to No. 4 Mk.1* occurred at Long Branch and Savage, sometime in 1942
 
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