Can't seem to get rid of Copper Fouling ??

rvd

rvd

Member
EE Expired
Rating - 100%
2   0   0
Location
Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada
Is there any other method to get the green copper fouling out of these old milsurps? I must have ran at least 35-40 patches through my MN 91/30 and everytime i pull a patch through it's got green on it still LOL

I'm using Hoppes 9 BenchRest Copper remover.. I ran a patch through the bore very wet with the solution, let it sit for a few mins, then ran the Hoppes Brush through it.. Then i started with the patches.. dry,wet,dry,wet,dry,wet etc.. it doesn't end.. Is it normal to get some green on the patches while using the copper solution or should the dry patches be white?

My M44 wasn't this bad at all :eek:, then again the 91/30 is a 1930 Tula model so it might have seen more rounds through it..
 
I use Remington Bore Cleaner, it's a greyish liquidy stuff that comes in a squirt bottle. About 10 passes with a nylon brush with some cleaner, and all the copper was out of the lands of the rifling. I cleaned out the cleaner with some CLP, and the bore was back to its shiny self.

Do be careful though, as the cleaner is slightly abraisive, so I only use it when things are really bad, and I make sure to oil the gun profusley after getting all the cleaner out.

.
 
Last edited:
well maybe i need to make more passes with the brush since i only ran it through once.. I tend to stay away from the brush if i can or at least use it as little as possible. I was once told that it's not good for the bore? yes no ? maybe i'm just
worrying too much lol
 
I wouldn't worry about the brush. If a bronze brush can damage a bore then what do you think firing a bullet through it can do?

Just be careful of nicking the bore with the rod. Agressive cleaning can do some damage over time.
 
thanks for the heads up.. I'm 110% careful with everything I do, i have the aluminum cleaning rod and i make sure to carefully slide it through.. I'll try the brush a bunch of times next time and see how it ends up..

thanks
 
you could , of course, go electronic or whatever they call it now days- that involves no effort on your part and should get all the copper out due to electro-chemical action-
 
"SWEETS 7.62 SOLVENT " ------ Simply -- It Works , just make sure you read the directions & do not leave it in the bore for more than 15-20 mins.& a lot less for stainless. Usually no brushes needed after . I use it on the T.R. bores to eliminate "guilding " .-- Btw , if saving the bore is a priority , a one piece plastic coated rod is THE way to go .
 
Last edited:
Well - If the bore is pitted, you've got a thankless job in front of you. Also, using a brass/copper/bronze brush with Hoppes Benchrest - you are attacking the copper in the brush.
Pull the bolt, look through the breech at the bore, aiming toward a light source. Is the bore bright and shiney, or dark (pitted)?
 
cosmic said:
Well - If the bore is pitted, you've got a thankless job in front of you. Also, using a brass/copper/bronze brush with Hoppes Benchrest - you are attacking the copper in the brush.
Pull the bolt, look through the breech at the bore, aiming toward a light source. Is the bore bright and shiney, or dark (pitted)?
Click to expand...

cosmic, the bore looks shiny, there's definitely some shine to it, i don't know how much of a shine you consider good or bad.. Maybe i should try and take some photos of it.. might be tough but i have a good camera.
 
copper fouling

rvd said:
Is there any other method to get the green copper fouling out of these old milsurps? I must have ran at least 35-40 patches through my MN 91/30 and everytime i pull a patch through it's got green on it still LOL

I'm using Hoppes 9 BenchRest Copper remover.. I ran a patch through the bore very wet with the solution, let it sit for a few mins, then ran the Hoppes Brush through it.. Then i started with the patches.. dry,wet,dry,wet,dry,wet etc.. it doesn't end.. Is it normal to get some green on the patches while using the copper solution or should the dry patches be white?

My M44 wasn't this bad at all :eek:, then again the 91/30 is a 1930 Tula model so it might have seen more rounds through it..
Click to expand...

J.B bore paste a tight jag and lots of sweat - Guarenteed to work :cool:
chemical cleaners always come out with blue patches cause they never remove all the copper - try this test - clean with chemical till you think all the coppers gone - then come back and wet patch in a couple of days -- more blue colour. Have even run into outers foul out electric copper removers that took a week to get it all out - J B will get it all out in one sitting - AND NO - it will not remove barrel metal --
 
RVD - Compare the bore to your other rifle - an excellent bore should be reflective in both the lands and grooves. Another way to tell is if the patch drags when pushed through the bore.
Bear in mind that these rifles are from an era of corrosive ammo - pitting is quite common. Doesnt mean the bore is worn, it can be still OK dimensionally, and shoot very well.
Problem is, you can spend an extra-ordinary amount of time trying to clean it everytime you shoot it, as the pits tend to pick up crud easily.
 
Sweet's is most useful after you have shot a batch of that corrosive ammo that seems to be coming out of the woodwork, especially in 7.62x54R. Sweet's works fine for this, or you can use the olde boiling-water-down-the-bore trick.

Quite possible for copper-removing bore cleaners to attack BRONZE brushes, as they are 90% copper themselves. If you are really worried, try a stainless-steel TORNADO brush, but make sure it's new and in good condition.

"Thou shalt not scratch thy bore!"

British replaced thousands of barrels, especially in peacetime, that were ruined by overcleaning. Be lazy like me!

Keep smilin', have fun.
 
Household ammonia will desolve the copper fouling.
Clean the bore with brake clean to get the oil out, then plug the muzzle, put the gun muzzle down, fill the bore with household ammonia - in a well ventilated place. Saok half an hour or even overnight, drain and rince with hot water, run a few patches down. Repeat until the ammonia no longer comes out with a blue tint and patches come out clean.
Ammonia will not etch or eat the steel bore in a few hours exposure. It will clean crud and copper out of any pits in the bore.
Do not use a copper brush as the ammonia will eat that too...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom