Anyone have a Lee Pro 1000 - want to offer feedback? opinions
- Thread starter Bigbubba
- Start date
I've reloaded a ton (50K+) of 9/45/38 on one. That said, it takes a bit of fiddling to smooth out the settings. The powder measure isn't exact, but it's as fool proof as they come - assuming you use the right one - use the spring return, not the toilet chain. The same goes for the primer feed - use CCI primers and it's great, others - not so much. I also use a factory crimp on a turret press to finish off. The case feed collator drops the occasional upside down case, but a lot less than you might assume, given the simplicity of the design. All in all from the perspective of price for function, I think they're a great deal.
With lee progressives, you’ve got to be prepared and able to tweak and fiddle with them a bit. Everything lee makes is almost over simplified, but usually functional. They will produce quality ammunition at a decent rate. There’s enough of them out there that the google will guide you through most of the tricks and adjustments.
All that being said, spending more is good too. The loadmaster is quite a bit more press. I won’t get into other brands as the cost can triple rather quickly…
All that being said, spending more is good too. The loadmaster is quite a bit more press. I won’t get into other brands as the cost can triple rather quickly…
Priming is better if you make sure the press is level or slightly leaning towards you. Don't forget to have extra primers in the tray as it is gravity fed and you need to make up for the lost ones. What really kills me is when one gets jammed and locks the shell plate.
Overall not much of an upgrade over my sorely missed 3 Hole Turret.
Overall not much of an upgrade over my sorely missed 3 Hole Turret.
I have two of them; one set up with large primers, one with small. I have loaded thousands of rounds with them. As others have posted, you need to be a bit of a mechanic or an engineer to keep them running (primers mainly being the big issue, it needs to be kept clean), but they do work. I bought mine used. I kept my old Lyman Turret press and use it for Rifle.
I have three of them. I abandoned the priming system on the 1000's and manually deprime and prime my cases. Before I decided to go this route I spent a lot of time tinkering with the priming stage on them which seemed to be every reloading session. It does take a little more time to deprime and prime the cases manually but the actual reloading process moves along much more quickly and smoother on the 1000's without the deprime and priming stages.
New Camper
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Lurking in the woods near SFRC.
I bought a used one a few years ago and at first it was non stop aggravation to the point I wanted to bash it into bits. But I persevered and realized the previous owner messed up some things on it. I'm mechanical and resolved the primer dispensing issue... the subtle difference causing the issue with feeding was hardly perceptible. Just bought a new primer feed and retained the old round hopper: if I recall correctly there was another issue with that and the index timing. It's not a progressive press for those lacking mechanical reasoning: I do wish it had four or five positions, (a blank for inspection and optional last for separate crimping) The stage you must watch closely is priming: I haven't blown any primers but it's easy to see why Lee recommends CCI... Also wish it had a spent primer tube out the bottom. Powder weighing disks are decent once you have determined the correct one: it's a trouble free step)
But when you get it running well, it is capable. Run it methodical, smooth and moderate pace that permits observation of the stations especially the priming step because of their nature and immediately after seating at bottom the powder drops at top of stroke... the most crucial step.
But when you get it running well, it is capable. Run it methodical, smooth and moderate pace that permits observation of the stations especially the priming step because of their nature and immediately after seating at bottom the powder drops at top of stroke... the most crucial step.
Like others, I've reloaded thousands of 9mm / 40s&w / 45acp / 38spec/357mag over the years.
Like others, the one thing I've found most troublesome is the primer feed. With the ram in the up position, when you're reloading, make sure there is no foreign material in the area where the priming pin presses against the base. An errant spent primer on the base could mess up your priming, not letting the ram/shell holder go down far enough to properly seat the primer.
To take care of spent primers, I built up a 2" base out of plywood, and cut a hole / ramp to dump the spent primers into a plastic bucket.
I've also added a small LED bike light above the third station, so I could check for powder just before seating a bullet.
Be prepared to have your patience tested sorting things out. Sometimes a part on the press doesn't look worn out, but it truly is, and a new part magically solves your issue.
Like others, the one thing I've found most troublesome is the primer feed. With the ram in the up position, when you're reloading, make sure there is no foreign material in the area where the priming pin presses against the base. An errant spent primer on the base could mess up your priming, not letting the ram/shell holder go down far enough to properly seat the primer.
To take care of spent primers, I built up a 2" base out of plywood, and cut a hole / ramp to dump the spent primers into a plastic bucket.
I've also added a small LED bike light above the third station, so I could check for powder just before seating a bullet.
Be prepared to have your patience tested sorting things out. Sometimes a part on the press doesn't look worn out, but it truly is, and a new part magically solves your issue.
From what I can tell, it's either the brass used for the primer cups is a bit harder/thicker than others, the priming compound is a bit less sensitive than other brands, or both.
I've seen charts where the thickness of the various brands and types of primer cups was summarized and compared, but I never thought to save a copy.
In any case, CCI primers are a bit more resistant to discharging while loading. Also, folks who have difficulties with a failure to fire using CCI primers will often find the problem goeas away with Federal primers.
A little fiddling and you'll be on your way. Keep it clean and keep a phillips screwdriver nearby. Once you understand what can wiggle out of adjustment you won't waste much time on the occasional tweaking.
I have mine set up to finish prepped 223.
For straight wall pistol calibers it works lickity split too.
I have mine set up to finish prepped 223.
For straight wall pistol calibers it works lickity split too.
I have more than one 1000. 9mm, .38, .45, and I think I have a .44 somewhere in the pile. Couldn't begin to count the rounds loaded with them. The .45acp loader came to me new, and required NO adjustment. Worked right from the get go. A rhythm needs to be struck, then away you go.
There are those who wouldn't have a 1000 as a gift and those who swear by them. I've never used another type of progressive, so I can't expound the failings nor the virtues of them. My 1000's have served me well. Primer trays must be kept clean, that's for sure. Other than that piece of wisdom, I can't say that I've had any great problems. The powder measures don't seem to like flake powder. I used a lot of 700X, and ended up making a simple agitator out of old manual typewriter and some other small gizmo parts.
There are those who wouldn't have a 1000 as a gift and those who swear by them. I've never used another type of progressive, so I can't expound the failings nor the virtues of them. My 1000's have served me well. Primer trays must be kept clean, that's for sure. Other than that piece of wisdom, I can't say that I've had any great problems. The powder measures don't seem to like flake powder. I used a lot of 700X, and ended up making a simple agitator out of old manual typewriter and some other small gizmo parts.
OkayShooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Nova Scotia
I reloaded 1000s over the years on various models of it. I never use the primer system. Dad quickly learned how much of a PITA it is, and I remembered that from when he was teaching me how to load. I hand prime then remove the decapping pin in my sizing die. The Pro 1000 is better than the Breach Lock Pro.. As the Breach lock pro, has alot of plastic parts that get damaged when you accidently crush cases.
That is what I do as well. Buying that bench quick change plate, makes it easy to swap presses over. That is the only thing I miss on the breech lock pro, was having the 4th stage to setup the factory crimp. But that was the ONLY thing I liked about it.
The only thing I wish the Pro 1000 could do, is be less janky. I have to operate the handle slowly, or put my finger over the case, to keep powder from flicking out.
That is what I do as well. Buying that bench quick change plate, makes it easy to swap presses over. That is the only thing I miss on the breech lock pro, was having the 4th stage to setup the factory crimp. But that was the ONLY thing I liked about it.
The only thing I wish the Pro 1000 could do, is be less janky. I have to operate the handle slowly, or put my finger over the case, to keep powder from flicking out.
I had 2, enjoyed them both. They do need to be adjusted/timed properly and as with all progressives you have to constantly monitor each stage. If you keep an eye on the details you will be fine. I could regularly process 300 rounds per hour in all my pistol calibers. They are a little more difficult to fix a problem at a particular stage but work fine for the money and can produce quality ammo. I did upgrade to a dillon after using my brother-in-law’s setup. Mostly vanity.
I have 2 one set up for 9mm and one for .45 acp. As stated they are finicky. For the price they work . Have reloaded thousands of rounds on both. If I was to do it again though I think I would spend extra money and get a Dillon. But to justify that you would have to load more than a couple thousand rounds a year to justify the price difference.
