375hh broken case stuck in barrel

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scottteddy

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sighting in my rifle for deer/bear , same load ive shot 100's of times, using once fired brass I bought off gun nutz, it was clean had no sign of head separation issues starting to form. Anyways I pull the trigger and my scope lights up in an orange flash and bolt is sticky but not stuck , only the bottom of the case comes out cut off a centimeter or two above the belt. case is stuck hard , I ran a 12 gauge brush through the muzzle to try and dislodge but no help. I dont wanna start sitcking stuff in there willy nilly trying to pry it out. Any suggestions or know of any tools I can use to pop it out with out scratching the chamber? Any smiths or knowledgeable folks in manitoba I can hire to pluck it out ?

Gun is a remington KS mountain rifle and Its the same load weighed in my auto scale ive always used so dunno what caused the big flash but ill get to the bottom of that once this case issue is fixed.

any help is greatly appreciated

thank you
 
stuff in a bit of tissue from the bolt side into case... wont take much
drop in a few drops of any type of glue
let harden then tap out with a rod from the muzzle end
 
OP - perhaps "good news" is that the front part of the case is seldom "welded" in there - as per Post #2 - a little bit of grab likely gets it out. You are already concerned about marring your chamber walls - do not loose sight of that!!!
 
Iv'e taken several separated cases out of chambers.Remove the bolt ,get a 3" lag screw that just fits inside the offending brass, insert the correct size socket with extension to reach the head of the lag screw,then firmly without ham handing things give socket a 1/4turn bite into the brass[it isn't touching the chamber.Remove socket and place a small bock of wood against the receiver then use a screwdriver to pry against the block under the lagscrew nut.It will pop out like a cap off a short necked beer.[pre-screw off type]
 
I stuff an earplug or whatever into the neck then throw some 5 minute epoxy on top from the action end... Next morning or so I place a rod in the barrel, give it a couple taps and clean up. Easy-peasy. I have removed some extremely stubborn separations that way.
 
Method 4 if done incorrectly (easily done that way) has a high possibility of ruining the chamber.

I would try inserting the large brass brush into the chamber until just past the neck of the case... and then pull it back out... often the bristle when it bends back on itself will grab it... other wise try one of the plug and glue methods...
 
I've used a slotted cleaning tip with 00 steal wool a few times. thread a little bit of the steal wool thru the slotted tip and insert into the chamber past the case neck...then pull straight back the wool will bunch in front of the case neck and remove it.

It's worked for me, very easy.
 
I very much appreciate you all taking the time to reach out with your help. I think ill try what seems to me like the easiest suggestions and work my way down the list . Ill try the steel wool , then the tissue or ear plug and epoxy , if those fail I will look at using a tap or lag screw.

Thanks all
 
I had a fellow one time that thought those stupid spiral easy out would be the answer, No it is not.
No good for broken studs either.
A new stiff stainless brush , if you have one of the right size really holds good, and it will not swell the brass like a screw, or the stupid easy out will, and make it tighter.
 
marshall said:
I had a fellow one time that thought those stupid spiral easy out would be the answer, No it is not.
No good for broken studs either.
A new stiff stainless brush , if you have one of the right size really holds good, and it will not swell the brass like a screw, or the stupid easy out will, and make it tighter.
Click to expand...

I have done this before. The SS brush is very stiff.

All else fails get a proper case extractor from PTG
 
The lag screw bites into the neck/shoulder area inside the brass stuck case not the chamber walls.It will come out faster than it takes to type the procedure.Did this on a Win 70 pre-64 300 H+H with some "once fired brass" 2min setup and done no worse for wear.
 
mbogo3 said:
The lag screw bites into the neck/shoulder area inside the brass stuck case not the chamber walls.It will come out faster than it takes to type the procedure.Did this on a Win 70 pre-64 300 H+H with some "once fired brass" 2min setup and done no worse for wear.
Click to expand...

When the lag bolt bites into the brass it also makes the brass tighter in the chamber but the problem that can occur is if the screw contacts the chamber, digs in and marks it... I have seen that done when using a tap as well... there just are safer methods. Yours has worked for you though...

I have always used the plug the neck, hold the barrel straight down in a vise, add a little epoxy inside the case... let it cure, tap it out...
 
From the muzzle end try a tight-fitting swab over a cleaning rod as if you were cleaning the bore from the muzzle end. Quick and Easy - the worst that can happen is that it slips by the broken case. If that doesn't work, you can progressively try other methods.
 
Okay so I solved it ! So I tried the over sized brush method with no success , so next I put a small cleaning patch and a foam ear plug in the neck of the case, put a few drops of gorilla glue in. Let it dry and then injected some JB steel epoxy into the case very carefully with an old meat syringe injector. I put another patch on top of that. Let it set over night and took about 5 good whacks with a rubber mallet and 5/16 dowel down the muzzle and out she popped.
 
Tonight I took a bore scope and could find no sign of damage . I went to the range with the brass I bought that the stuck brass was part of. Inspected the brass and it seems brand new , no head ring signs. I tried reduce loads and worked up. once I got to half a grain under my regular load I got slight sticky bolt and flattened primers. Shot 3 of my old loads in my old brass and no problem. I dont really understand , All trimmed and sized the same, only difference is old brass is winchester and new stuff is Rem and Fed mixed. Is there a big discrepancy between the two brands,.. Ive loaded everything from 7mm-08 , 30-06 7mm mag, 4570, 308, 257 wthy mag 338-06,338 mag- and never had a pressure spike like this with only the brass being different head stamp.

Anyways found good accuracy with the new brass at 3 grains under regular load with no pressure sign so Ill stick with that.

Thanks for all the suggestions that rolled in
 
Well, I am just a grouchy old fart in middle of no where Manitoba, but your last two post showed several things that you GOT AWAY WITH that you should not have. You pounded on a wood dowel in a rifle barrel - dowel should have split the long taper way and jammed tightly in that bore while you were pounding - should not have worked, but you got away with it. You do not segregate or adjust your loads for various head stamps - that should create all kinds of pressure issues, but you have been getting away with it. Good for you.
 
^Nothing wrong with a dowel for a stuck case. A stuck bullet not so much.

To the OP, you should redevelop your load. Capacity can differ significantly between differing headstamps and may cause you issues as you have found out.
 
I hunted with a guy never threw brass away until the head separated usually after he shot at a deer. Was a 7mm mag and I took them out many times. He believe it or not carried a easy out that fit the case and a cleaning rod. We pulled the bolt screwed it into the case and tapped it out with the cleaning rod. Most of his loaded shells had a bright ring just about the case head.
 
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