Suggestions for a cold weather oil.

bill c68

bill c68

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 99.4%
161   1   1
Location
Prince Edward Island
After many years of using and cleaning shotguns, I thought I knew what I was doing but last Saturday it was bitterly cold, snowing and blowing about 50-100k. Our guns all malfunctioned, My Baikal MP-153 wouldn't cycle, My father's Citori wouldn't shoot (firing pins were sticking a bit) a young fella had a Mossy 20 G pump, it wouldn't do anyting and my buddy's 50 year old Winchester semi worked but had an ocassional hiccup.

I took my gun back to my car and stripped it, dumped out all of the snow and degreased it, same thing... I looked in the car and found some Dry-lube for bike chains, the gun was about 90% after that.

Any suggestions?

We still managed to kill about 75 crows though!
 
Last edited:
LAW, Lubricating Oil,Weapons, Low Temperature, MIL-L-14107C-AM.2

or CLP (some people are promoting Militec but not sure about the cold weather performance)

Personally I have never had a problem (done to -22 F) with G96 or Rem Oil but you must start with a "VERY CLEAN" firearm....use solvents and boiling water to clean all the old grunge out of all the moving parts....

Then lubricate VERY sparingly ... if a little drop will do...thats all you should use. Most problems come from the belief that if "a little is good - a lot is better"


(I would ask a gunsmith to clean the Citori though)
 
AP said:
LAW, Lubricating Oil,Weapons, Low Temperature, MIL-L-14107C-AM.2

or CLP (some people are promoting Militec but not sure about the cold weather performance)

Personally I have never had a problem (done to -22 F) with G96 or Rem Oil but you must start with a "VERY CLEAN" firearm....use solvents and boiling water to clean all the old grunge out of all the moving parts....

Then lubricate VERY sparingly ... if a little drop will do...thats all you should use. Most problems come from the belief that if "a little is good - a lot is better"


(I would ask a gunsmith to clean the Citori though)
Click to expand...

Citori is easy, just pull the stock off and voila, access to every moving part. the trick is to insure your stock goes back on properly, if it gets loose then the stock will crack under recoil.
I sometimes use brake cleaner to degrease everything, I'll have to find some of the above mentioned products, here on PEI there is little to choose from, I have some Hoppes oil, Rust Check and some Outer's from Canadian Tire. I think I have seen Rem oil somewhere.
 
For over 35 years I have been using and recommending G-96 Gun Treatment. Silicone based and good for extremely low temperatures.
 
When I was playing with m305's, I found an industrial spray on dry PTFE lube. Spray on Teflon. You need to degrease everything. I used spray on brake cleaner. Critical that all oils are stripped.

Spray this stuff on for a few coats, let dry and work the parts. I used it on the op rod and damn if there wasn't a slick hard surface formed. Worked really well. Don't know how long it will last but easy enough to apply more.

Can't see why this wouldn't stay working in the cold.

On my rifles, I have been using a Sythetic grease and oil. They come in grey containers. They are rated to function at very cold temps. So far, never had an issue with my hunting rifles but I don't play much below -5C.

Look at snowmobile or aircraft lubes. You know these are designed to work in the cold.
Jerry
 
.... Last year I was shooting down to minus 20C and everything, including me, froze solid ! Wiped off/cleaned every little nook and cranny, then used a very light oil and diluted that with a bit of Kerosene. Worked OK from there on ! I would think a silicon spray, lightly applied would work, as would WD40, powdered graphite maybe? ... I think, WW2, on the Eastern Front it was either dry or straight kerosene. ...... David K. ....
 
Hi

The worst thing you can do is to run in and out of someplace warm. Condensation that then freezes will muck things up in a hurry. No lube will help that out ....

Bob
 
With a semi auto shotgun, what parts will work dry? and which require some lube? I have no issue running my Baikal dry if it will work, the trigger mech is all chromed and stainless etc, the receiver is aluminum, I think the only rustable part is the bbl and mag cap.
 
+1 on degreasing everything with brake cleaner. Make sure the brake cleaner is perchloroethylene (look for non-flammable on the label)

Use a dry lube or a liquid lube that dries leaving a non-tacky film. If you want to use an oil, use a light synthetic.

I use Eezox or Breakfree, but only use a little and wipe off excess. I do this a week or so before I need to use them in extreme cold so the liquid carriers will evaporate.
 
Last edited:
bill c68 said:
I thought about WD... of course everyone says to stay way from it, but I have used it amny moons ago and never had a problem.
Click to expand...

Hi

It used to be mostly kerosene, then they changed things up a little. The main stuff in it is still very close to kerosene. It cleans well and displaces water (as in condensation). For long term (over a week or so) lubrication - it's not that great.

Bob
 
....Going back to my experience of last year, the biggest "problem" or if you like cause/source of misfire, was grease in the bolt/firing pin, and this happened in both SMLEs and M98 and a Brno 22 ! And I thought they were all clean ! ( Any grease seemed to congeal and if not actually stopping the firing pin's fall, sure softened it ! ) .... Plus, shooting over the glare produced by the snow, a sun shade is needed on the Spotting Scope , I ended up with a homemade version made out of scrap PVC Tube. Sunglasses and ball cap with a peak ! Obviously, the cold affects motor skills, IE trigger release etc. ! ..... David K.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom