Anyone ever improved the Savage Accutrigger ?

ben777lemay

ben777lemay

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Recently bought a Savage Mark 2 TR.
It was my first rifle few years ago and always felt bad selling it so I bought one back to fill *the void*

The Accutrigger from my first rifle was really nice but the one on my recent TR is not so great.

Heavy pull and lots of creep/pre-travel.

I had a couples Savage Mk2's over the years and I tried the RifleBasix and Appache kits.
The Appache kit really reduce the pull weight but that's about it.
The RifleBasix kit is nicer because of the adjustability but its, imo, nowhere near a match trigger and not worth the price tag.

These two kits are pretty expensive for a *budget rifle*
So I decided to modify my stock Accutrigger.

To adress the trigger pull weight, I carefully grinded the part of the trigger where the spring sits so it sits lower and reduce the spring tension.
It worked very well ! I would say the trigger pull is now in the range of the Target Accutrigger ( red bade ).
It pass the bump test as well as it doesn't lock up on the *safety blade*.
I saw this mod on the net so it has been done before.

Modified trigger with the spring that sits lower :

20SW7cy.png


Stock trigger :

hvmAvyr.jpg


Now the creep...
I think there is two way to improve it.

The first way would be to stone and remove some material where's the sear and trigger mate.
That's a risky way because if you remove too much material, it can ruin the trigger.
Those parts must be pretty difficult to source.

The other way, is to drill and tap a hole in the sear and put a set screw to adjust the pre-travel/creep ( as pictured below ).
That's probably the way I will go unless you guys have other options to reduce pre-travel/creep.

Green line is where the set screw would be and the red arrows is the movement/adjustability the set screw will create.

YSXG5kH.png


FYI, I'm not a gunsmith but I'm a machinist and I *play* with triggers for many years with great results.
Safety first is always a must when you modify some parts on a firearm. if you don't feel comfortable doing it, please just don't !

I'm very curious to see if anyone else have modified his Accutrigger...
What you think about the set-screw mod to adjust the pre-tavel/creep ?
 
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Hi ben - I've had a B22 for a bit over a year and went thru the trials of the Accu-trigger that won't go under 3-4#. In my research I found on many opinions on this, rimfirecentral in the savage section a good thread with lots of tips - http s://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=227014 . I haven't read thru it lately but one thing I did which may be in there is to 'heat' the T-spring red-hot and allow it to cool slowly. That removed a lot of tension and now I have a ca less than 2# pull. I polished everything inside the assy and lubed with synthetic grease (60% moly would be good too). I replaced the Safety-spring with a bit of clik-pen spring, stretched to fit so there was way less tension than OEM. I did NOT cut the main spring, but did similar to your 'cutting the ledge' mod, I ground the socket with a dremel 'ball-rasp'. I may try your mod just to get more 'adjust-ability' to the pull. I don't find it 'too light' yet but would like to get down around 1#.
I found tips on Savageshooters .com also, and I have a few threads there, RFC and here regarding the Savage triggers, you're welcome to check out my user name for them. On RFC & SS I'm Fasteddie01.
Currently I'm struggling with an A22 trigger, they're totally different and NOT 'mod-friendly'. So far the 'heat-treatment' is my only success. Again there are other suggestions on this but few w/o drastic action. I don't want to cut the spring w/o a replacement handy and Savage in US and Can will NOT send me any spring, especially a 'target spring', something about Liability I guess. So much for 'Customer Service' :rolleyes: In the USA you can buy a "Varmint" spring for centerfire Savages that 'will work' in rimfires, but the vendor - Gunshack - will not ship outside US. This would be the solution for both rifles.
I hope this gives you some ideas, I'll watch this thread for progress.
Ed
PS - There is a mod I believe on RFC about the 'set-screw' thing, but I didn't feel I needed it on my rifles. Mine don't have significant creep after the other mods I've done.
 
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Just a PS here, I've been modding triggers on my rifles too (used to be a machinist too) and I enjoy this sort of fiddlin'. I've done my Ruger American Safety trigger, Marlin 60, Savage 64, Sav B22, Sav A22, and 2 SKSes, 2 pellet rifles, 1-Cman Classic pistol, and an original AR-7. Always a challenge to find the sweet-spot ;-)
 
I did a savage axis (non-accutrigger) with a rifle basix and it is definitely one of the best triggers I have ever used. The trigger that I used can be used for accu-trigger or non-accutrigger models and is adjustable from 14oz to 3 pounds
 
Thanks Ben for the trigger pull weight mod idea!

I gave my MKII BTSV accutrigger this treatment.
Before the lowest pull I could adjust to was slightly above 2.5 lb.
After the modification just under 1.5 lb.


Easy and quick to do as well.
 
Buck1950 said:
Hi ben - I've had a B22 for a bit over a year and went thru the trials of the Accu-trigger that won't go under 3-4#. In my research I found on many opinions on this, rimfirecentral in the savage section a good thread with lots of tips - http s://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=227014 . I haven't read thru it lately but one thing I did which may be in there is to 'heat' the T-spring red-hot and allow it to cool slowly. That removed a lot of tension and now I have a ca less than 2# pull.
I saw this mod for the spring but I didn't wanted to go that route. I don't want to change the properties of the metal.

I polished everything inside the assy and lubed with synthetic grease (60% moly would be good too).
I use a combination of Lithium grease and/or G96 on mating surfaces of my triggers.

I replaced the Safety-spring with a bit of clik-pen spring, stretched to fit so there was way less tension than OEM.
Fantastic idea ! While this spring doesn't have alot of tension, it adds up to the main trigger spring tension. I will do this mod as well, thanks.

I did NOT cut the main spring, but did similar to your 'cutting the ledge' mod, I ground the socket with a dremel 'ball-rasp'. I may try your mod just to get more 'adjust-ability' to the pull. I don't find it 'too light' yet but would like to get down around 1#.
Cutting the spring IS DEFINETLY NOT a good idea due to its design/shape.

iD9tbCj.png


I found tips on Savageshooters .com also, and I have a few threads there, RFC and here regarding the Savage triggers, you're welcome to check out my user name for them. On RFC & SS I'm Fasteddie01.
Will do...

Currently I'm struggling with an A22 trigger, they're totally different and NOT 'mod-friendly'. So far the 'heat-treatment' is my only success. Again there are other suggestions on this but few w/o drastic action. I don't want to cut the spring w/o a replacement handy and Savage in US and Can will NOT send me any spring, especially a 'target spring', something about Liability I guess. So much for 'Customer Service' :rolleyes: In the USA you can buy a "Varmint" spring for centerfire Savages that 'will work' in rimfires, but the vendor - Gunshack - will not ship outside US. This would be the solution for both rifles.
Yeah, could be nice to have the Target spring directly from Savage.

I hope this gives you some ideas, I'll watch this thread for progress.
Ed
Thanks Ed for your contribution ;)


PS - There is a mod I believe on RFC about the 'set-screw' thing, but I didn't feel I needed it on my rifles. Mine don't have significant creep after the other mods I've done.

Just a PS here, I've been modding triggers on my rifles too (used to be a machinist too) and I enjoy this sort of fiddlin'. I've done my Ruger American Safety trigger, Marlin 60, Savage 64, Sav B22, Sav A22, and 2 SKSes, 2 pellet rifles, 1-Cman Classic pistol, and an original AR-7. Always a challenge to find the sweet-spot ;-)
Click to expand...



.22LRGUY said:
I've never put one in a Savage, but have done 2 Marlins with Rifle Basix triggers. They ship to Canada, worth every penny. (the Marlin ones were)

https://riflebasix.com/product/savage-accutrigger-rimfire-trigger-sav-rat/
Click to expand...

Like I said, I already used a RB trigger on a MK2 and it was a nice trigger for sure. I just fell its a pretty expensive upgrade for a *budget-ish* rifle that is supposed to have a good factory trigger.
That been said, the Sav-rat trigger have mixed reviews on the net. I think some people just can't adjust it to work well.

crowellsr said:
I did a savage axis (non-accutrigger) with a rifle basix and it is definitely one of the best triggers I have ever used. The trigger that I used can be used for accu-trigger or non-accutrigger models and is adjustable from 14oz to 3 pounds
Click to expand...

I already went that route but wanted to see how far I can improve a factory MK2 Accutrigger.

bertn said:
Thanks Ben for the trigger pull weight mod idea!

I gave my MKII BTSV accutrigger this treatment.
Before the lowest pull I could adjust to was slightly above 2.5 lb.
After the modification just under 1.5 lb.

Easy and quick to do as well.
Click to expand...

Glad it worked well for you too. Definetly a great cheap, quick and easy mod for the Accutrigger.
 
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How light do people like their triggers?

Now I haven't shot too many different rifles but I really like the stock accutrigger with a 2.5lb pull.

Maybe it's like a car seat warmer. You never really want it it until you try it.
 
alltieear said:
How light do people like their triggers?

Now I haven't shot too many different rifles but I really like the stock accutrigger with a 2.5lb pull.

Maybe it's like a car seat warmer. You never really want it it until you try it. Exactly !!!
Click to expand...

It depends of the use of the rifle.
For hunting, 2.5lbs pull is OK
For benchrest, I like my trigger pull to be around 1lb or less.
Prefered pull weight are also vary from one shooter to another.

My girlfriend have a nice CZ 457 At-One. We put the YoDave trigger spring in it.
Overall this trigger is very nice, the pull weight is around 1.5lb.
Then she tried my walther KK Uit Spezial and my Feinwerkbau Modell 2000 ( both triggers are in ounces ).
I warned her that everything after you use those triggers will be poop.
Now she wish her CZ have a better trigger.
 
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One thing I will also use in my Accutrigger is some shims between the trigger/sear and the trigger *housing*.

Those don't reduce the trigger pull as well but they eliminate the side to side play and makes the trigger pull a little more consistent.

I will install them at the very end when I will have the Accutrigger where I want because they are a pain in the butt to install.

UO3HEXe.jpg


zEIISXW.jpg


Now I'm on the hunt for right spring to replace the safety blade spring.

Haven't decided yet what road I should go to reduce overtravel.
 
ben777lemay said:
It depends of the use of the rifle.
For hunting, 2.5lbs pull is OK
For benchrest, I like my trigger pull to be around 1lb or less.
Prefered pull weight are also vary from one shooter to another.

My girlfriend have a nice CZ 457 At-One. We put the YoDave trigger spring in it.
Overall this trigger is very nice, the pull weight is around 1.5lb.
Then she tried my walther KK Uit Spezial and my Feinwerkbau Modell 2000 ( both triggers are in ounces ).
I warned her that everything after you use those triggers will be poop.
Now she wish her CZ have a better trigger.
Click to expand...

Makes sense for a dedicated bench shooter. Do you know if there is a less permanent method to reduce the pull weight if I wanted to try it out. I have a mk ii but I might take it out for small game one day.

Would switching out the spring be a easy way to change it?
 
Ben - Just a thought here, I've read that one can actually remove the Safety spring because the main spring will have enough tension for sear reset. I just wanted to keep the 'safety' factor for now. With under 2# that's a consideration and my B22 is around 1# now.
 
Buck1950 said:
Ben - Just a thought here, I've read that one can actually remove the Safety spring because the main spring will have enough tension for sear reset. I just wanted to keep the 'safety' factor for now. With under 2# that's a consideration and my B22 is around 1# now.
Click to expand...

I even saw some people removing the safety blade and spring so you completely remove the tension of the blade on the total pull weight of the trigger.

Like you, I would not go that route.

I definetly not recommend doing so.
 
What I did when I had my Savage was clip a coil off the spring rather than removing metal like you did, and for the safety blade I replaced the spring with an ultra-light spring taken out of a ball-point pen. Can't recall what all that got the pull weight down to, it was "satisfactory" at the time, until I tried Anschütz and Walther triggers :d

I like you idea of drilling and tapping the sear to put in an engagement adjustment screw, see no reason why it wouldn't work well.
 
The "Cut-spring" mod I saw (think it was on RFC) involved cutting off the smaller section of the spring and 1-2 coils of the large section, then putting a 10-24 set screw through the threaded area to give an 'anchor-point' for the remaining part of the spring. Coils to be removed gradually until the desired pull is reached. :rolleyes:
Unfortunately, this mod is NOT 1) reversible and 2) NOT adjustable, so I'm NOT recommending it, just noting it's existence. Quite a risky process. :(
RFC members in the states have access to Gunshack in TX where you can get a Savage 'Centerfire spring' that the vendor claims will NOT work in rimfire, but members say it's fine, adjustable like 1.5 - 4#. GS does NOT ship to Canada, so we're left to fend for ourselves. :(
BTW - I heated the spring on my B22 last Winter and have run several hundred rounds this year with NO probs, maybe someday the weakened spring may give but not this year :rolleyes: I've got ca 1.5# pull on the B22. And did the A22 about 6-7 weeks ago and 2-300 rounds still OK - and the pull is under 2#.
YMMV
 
Well, the point of my comments is the added cost on a rifle that cost over $400 tx-in; I'd just get a better rifle for the $500+. My B22 was under 400 tx-in and my A22 was only $180 NO-tx. Both now are ca 2#or less and still fully adjustable 'Up' heavier. And I can buy quite a bit of ammo for the $100USD + shpg + exch + whatever.
 
RabidM4U5 said:
What I did when I had my Savage was clip a coil off the spring rather than removing metal like you did, and for the safety blade I replaced the spring with an ultra-light spring taken out of a ball-point pen. Can't recall what all that got the pull weight down to, it was "satisfactory" at the time, until I tried Anschütz and Walther triggers :d

I like you idea of drilling and tapping the sear to put in an engagement adjustment screw, see no reason why it wouldn't work well.
Click to expand...

Factory German rimfire triggers are sure hard to beat.

Just wanted back *my first rimfire rifle* and also wanted a *not too nice rifle* that I can bring in the fields.
Just trying to make is as nice as possible without throwing too much dough into it.

I saw some people removing a coil from the sprig like you did but I wanted to keep the shape of the spring ( *anchor point* ) that's why I decided to remove material from the trigger.

For the adjustment screw, I will do it, just need to source a small enough set screw and tap so it won't weaken too much the sear.
Something like 6-40 or something like that... Hardware is SAE on these rifles so I want to use SAE set screw as well.

The only downside from this mod is that its gonna be a pain to adjust because you have to disassemble the trigger each time you want to make an adjustment.
 
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