JR had a 'adapter' that would fit over the original handle, but it wasn't too terribly much bigger but it did look like a change. You could order it direct from them. https://justrightcarbines.com/product/charge-handle-adapter/?v=3e8d115eb4b3
The JR Carbine Thread
- Thread starter Konrad
- Start date
I'm going to make my own oversize bolt handle
Bubba Yugga
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Midwestern Ontario
what are you guys using for slings?
my Gen 3 is basically stock.
I'm leaning towards a single point sling. any reocs on type and where to mount it?
Im also looking for a muzzle brake. Tenda has one for about $60
Bubba Yugga
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Midwestern Ontario
My favourite attachment points are an M-Lok paraclip loop at the front of the handguard and QD mount at the back of the buttstock.
(Throw out the quad-rail handguard and install TNA's Super M-Lok 13.5" handguard. Quad's got more value as scrap metal than being on the gun.)
Recommended sling would be either Magpul MS1 or Blue Force Vickers. Don't bother with the padded version - this is not a Bren or M60 you got here.
Hardware to put on the ends would be MAG540 QD Sling Swivel and MAG541 Paraclip.
My preference is to use the QD on the right side so the sling comes up and over my shoulder without tangling in the butt.
You'll probably want to upgrade to the CTR milspec stock to accommodate that.
If you really have to go with a muzzle brake, consider the jam nut type.
I've had really bad luck with timing the crush washer type.
It looks like crap when you have a stack of annealed copper washers up front!
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Bubba Yugga
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Midwestern Ontario
https://truenortharms.com/ar15_default_store_view/super-m-lok-handguard-easy-install.html
All the different lengths are out of stock, unfortunately...
Strange Primer hits
I just got in my JRC 9mm. Loaded it up with 10 rounds of Remington UMC 9mm 115gr, FMJ. Soft shooting gun. No failures. I went to examine the case and primers and all 10 had some weird primer markings. I didnt try any more. I tried to contact the vendor, but they are mired in the handgun frenzy. I hand load 308 and 6.5 and have seen the results of some light hand loads or too hot a hand load. I'm not sure what to make of these primers marks.
All primers are properly rounded where they should be (not raised anywhere either) but with the odd cratered fire pin area. Seems like the primer flowed back into fire pin hole due to just a light enough strike to ignite the primer. I've just never seen that before on any of my rifles.
Does anyone have an idea whats going on?
I just got in my JRC 9mm. Loaded it up with 10 rounds of Remington UMC 9mm 115gr, FMJ. Soft shooting gun. No failures. I went to examine the case and primers and all 10 had some weird primer markings. I didnt try any more. I tried to contact the vendor, but they are mired in the handgun frenzy. I hand load 308 and 6.5 and have seen the results of some light hand loads or too hot a hand load. I'm not sure what to make of these primers marks.
All primers are properly rounded where they should be (not raised anywhere either) but with the odd cratered fire pin area. Seems like the primer flowed back into fire pin hole due to just a light enough strike to ignite the primer. I've just never seen that before on any of my rifles.
Does anyone have an idea whats going on?
Attachments
Question for JR carbine owners (of which I am one). What's going to happen with the new restrictions to 5 round in a semi-auto, if it comes to pass (I know C21 does not specifically mention this, but there will be magazine restriction apparently through OIC)? All the JR carbines take 10 round pistol mags, Glock or Beretta. I am not aware of anyone making 5 round mags for them.
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1) What is drafted currently focuses on rifle mags so the differentiation between pistol and rifle appears to be holding. (so no impact)
2) What is drafted isn't law yet so it can change 100x before then so stressing now is waste of your time
West Coast
New member
- Location
- Surrey, BC (Vancouver area)
Does anyone know what exact parts are required to convert the latest MLOK rail model of JR Carbine to the takedown version?
I ask because the takedown forend is screwed on. But the MLOK seems to have some sort of square nut holding the barrel on, from looking down the MLOK rail. I have not taken it apart yet. Is the threaded part under there, the part required to screw on the takedown forend? Or is something other than the takedown forend required?
Also, is the custom JR Carbine Combination Wrench they sell needed to remove the barrel? They sell it for some reason? I know it is required to unscrew the castle nut to gain access to the bolt, but what other purposes does it have?
Last, is it advisable to change out the forend, or will it mess up accuracy when the barrel is released, and not necessarily put back in the same rotation (position)? I have been told that accuracy will suffer.
I ask because the takedown forend is screwed on. But the MLOK seems to have some sort of square nut holding the barrel on, from looking down the MLOK rail. I have not taken it apart yet. Is the threaded part under there, the part required to screw on the takedown forend? Or is something other than the takedown forend required?
Also, is the custom JR Carbine Combination Wrench they sell needed to remove the barrel? They sell it for some reason? I know it is required to unscrew the castle nut to gain access to the bolt, but what other purposes does it have?
Last, is it advisable to change out the forend, or will it mess up accuracy when the barrel is released, and not necessarily put back in the same rotation (position)? I have been told that accuracy will suffer.
Bubba Yugga
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Midwestern Ontario
The takedown's forend is little more than just a big @$$ barrel nut. The ergonomics are just as bad as the quadrail abomination.
I'd sooner get a Sub 2000 or, better yet, a baseline Ruger PCC for packing.
Any cheap AR wrench will deal with the castle nut. There's no compelling reason to remove the barrel, so best to leave it. The MLOK forend is just fine.
The charging handle is a bit small, but you can build it up with electrical tape or similar at negligible cost. Blue loctite it every time you put it back on.
Just my zwei pfennigen...
I'd sooner get a Sub 2000 or, better yet, a baseline Ruger PCC for packing.
Any cheap AR wrench will deal with the castle nut. There's no compelling reason to remove the barrel, so best to leave it. The MLOK forend is just fine.
The charging handle is a bit small, but you can build it up with electrical tape or similar at negligible cost. Blue loctite it every time you put it back on.
Just my zwei pfennigen...
