Lower recoil for beginner?

MilitaryCollectorMark

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Hello all.

As the title says I'm not very experienced shooter, I have 2 rifles that I want to try and practice with.
A savage 110 in 270 and a remington 788 in 308.

I have a guy that can help me reloading so that wouldn't be a problem.
 
Maybe think about a recoil pad or a muzzle brake. Both those calibers are capable of taking most game and aren't very heavy recoiling off a bench with decent technique.
 
If you've got a buddy that can handload, you can sit down with him and get baby loads for practice in either caliber. You can expect them to hit the paper in a different place from full power loads so you will need to write down adjustments for different loads if you want hunt with hotter stuff. You should be able to get the best of both worlds like this.
 
You can take a lot of the sting out of a caliber by simply using starting loads instead of loading til you pop a primer then backing off 1/10th of a grain. ;).

A new shooter will benefit most by having a pile of ammo and shooting in field positions til he burns himself, then switching riclsz and then switching rifles and doing it again. It also has the advantage of allowing harges to be thrown instead of weighed. The time saved can be spent shooting instead of staring at a scale.

Ironically the best thing a cost conscious shooter can do is get into bullet casting. Ripping off ammo by the-cream pail of cast loads will convert a shooter into stone cold killer faster than anythingelse

The ironic part is handgunners and clay target shooters think of their ammo in dolly losdz, but rifle shooters think they’llbuy their hits with a lab scale.
 
I think that you will be surprised how good shooting form, and ear protection, takes away a huge amount of what people perceive as recoil. The rifles that you mention are not boomers, at all. Even with red-line hot loads. I am guessing that you will find start level loads with standard hunting weight bullets to be pretty meek.

Not as if you're burning off 90 or 100 grains of smokeless powder per shot - .40 caliber and larger - in an 8 pound rifle. Or 4 gauge black powder rifle. Those have real and truly heavy duty recoil, that will get your attention. And will make you re-consider taking a second shot. They will break finger bones in your shooting hand, behind the trigger guard, if your grip is not appropriate. A 270 Win and 308 Win are not, at all, in that class.
 
Well, it doesn't help on the 270, that I shot 3 shells with a plastic butt plate. :)
Shoulder was sore for 2 days.

Looking up trail boss, looks to be a good powder, it's very "fluffy" so less powder per say then a finer one, so less recoil.

Yes, Potashminer, that would be a good idea, if the starter load is fairly accurate, then no need to up the amount of powder.

I did try a friends 54 cal black powder rifle. But, because it's a newer type with a good stock and recoil pad, it wasn't bad recoil at all. Even hit the target close to the bullseye at a 100 or so yards. :)
 
The physics of recoil tend to circle around a projectile of a certain weight (mass) exiting at a certain velocity and the weight of the powder gases (very close to the weight of powder charge) also exiting - typically gases are exiting much faster than did the projectile. Consider that the bullet and rifle and powder all started still - together - in milliseconds that bullet and powder gas accelerated to muzzle velocity - so the rifle had to go the other way. Use the fancy math and can figure out how fast the weight (mass) of the rifle is going to go the opposite way. Perhaps good recoil pads alter the way that you experience that energy - a quick sharp "punch", or a longer duration "push". However, that recoil energy is going to get transferred to you, unless the rifle went flying off into the bush.

But most sporter rifles have the point of recoil transfer to the shooter, below the line of the barrel - therefore the muzzle will rise. That means so will the top of the comb of the stock. Those unprepared, will get smacked in the face by their comb; if they did not mount the rifle correctly, they will experience the rearward motion on bone, or thinly covered bone on their shoulder. All of which contributes to a "perception" of recoil, which may or may not be supported by the physics involved. In extreme cases of poor form, the scope cuts a half moon shape on the shooters eyebrow - apparently is quite a memorable experience to have!!!

I once worked with a fairly husky fellow on an underground mining crew who told me, how his GrandPa's 30-30 rifle would kick the snot out of him when he fired it. Pure physics do not support that - but was what he claimed to have experienced. Does not make his GrandPa's rifle special, or "extra powerful", at all. Says more about his abilities, or perhaps that rifle stock's fit to him, than most anything else I could think of.

Most new shooters can get past the recoil thing by firing off hand standing - not the most precise for shooting groups, but gets you past the "kick" thing. Half dozen shots usually teaches you is not so bad. Now can sit down with sandbags - try to keep your back erect - stack stuff high - let your shoulder and back flex as if you were standing. As mentioned above, with some trigger time, you will learn is not so bad at all. Likely tempting you to get lower - likely focusing on getting better groups. Wrong thing to worry about at the beginning - have to get used to the "kick" - such as it is. My 14 year old son was ripping of standing magazine fulls with my 338 Win Mag - his words - made the 308 Win feel like "puny" in comparison. Perhaps need to experience some recoil, to appreciate when it is not significantly there.
 
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Hello all.

As the title says I'm not very experienced shooter, I have 2 rifles that I want to try and practice with.
A savage 110 in 270 and a remington 788 in 308.

I have a guy that can help me reloading so that wouldn't be a problem.
Selection of bullets and powders is thin right now. Find the lightest bullets you can buy for each rifle, then use the starting load from your friend's loading manual.
For 308 look for 125gr or 110gr, and 100 or 90gr for 270.
 
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^^ i AGREE. Use the Start load in the book with a light bullet.

When my son was 10 he was shooting a 308 with 125 gr Sierra soft points with the start load of 4895. No problems to 600 yards. But it would not shoot long range.

Recoil is a strange thing. My wife borrowed an Accuracy Internarial in 308 from Wolverine. It had a muzzle brake. The rifle was heavy and I did not think the brake was really required, so i took it off when she was going to shoot a week end match. Rules did not allow brakes.

She was badly bruised. I shoot a lighter rifle in a 200 round test session, wearing a T shirt. no bruise. Go figure.
 
Lightest bullets with starting loads. Or load down with a powder that allows it like H4895. Keep an eye on bullet stability as reduced velocity also reduces spin rate/stabilization.

https://hodgdon.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/h4895-reduced-rifle-loads.pdf

Both of those cartridges can be made soft enough for anyone to shoot comfortably. Your reloading buddy should be able to help you out here.

I am going to load up some 6.5CM loads for a young girl that is a little uncomfortable with the full power loads I developed for the rifle. Using H4895, and light bullets, you can produce loads with greatly reduced recoil. Then you can gradually work up the loads as your comfort level increases.
 
I found the best way to reduce recoil was to actually setup the scope and gun correctly so the cheek weld is solid with full head weight and no straining. Get the gun on the bag, use your off hand to prop up the stock with a small squeeze bag if possible, and gently push your shoulder and body into the butt pad. She will push back nicely into your shoulder, not smack it.


When I first started with bench shooting rifles, I had an obsession to get into the 3/4 moa hunting rifle thread. Back then I would try to put as little of myself into the gun to avoid disturbing things. This was with a 223 Remington. It worked ok. Then I got a 338lap mag, and using that technique was absolutely horrible. I got beat up bad and the groups were so terrible. That 338 taught me how to actually control a rifle, not the other way around. Dont be afraid to put your full head weight on the stock. It won't buck up and kick you, in fact it will buck up way less than without a solid cheek weld.
 
I loaded for a few buddies kids, oddly enough they don't know each other but both kids have the same rifles, Savage lever in 308. I used 125gr SST and a mid charge, the light bullets are fine for deer.
These are light rifles with steel butt plates so factory 150's were not pleasant for them. With my loads they could shoot a whole box off the bench and wanted more lol. These were 90lb kids, boy and a girl pre-teen. The girl actually shot her first deer with that set up.
 
It was said before: lightest bullets, with starting loads. I will add faster powders also as the recoil from these seems mild compared with slower powders. My most accurate and very light recoiling load with Nosler Partitions in the 270 win is 55 grains of H4831, when a 'pet load' for 130 grains in 270 win is 60 grains. Also I found out that using IMR 4064 gave excellent accuracy and little recoil with 130 grains in the 270, it also requires less powder (around 47-48.5 grains). I have no experience with 308.
 
^^ i AGREE. Use the Start load in the book with a light bullet.

When my son was 10 he was shooting a 308 with 125 gr Sierra soft points with the start load of 4895. No problems to 600 yards. But it would not shoot long range.

I started my own 3 kids and some other new shooters on 708 using 120gr Sierra flat base and a grain under the suggested start load of IMR4064. 2550 fps is pleasant to shoot and a decent deer load. 150-200 yds without hold over.
 
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