How to Deal with Rust
- Thread starter CarloNord
- Start date
- Location
- Western Manitoba
You probably have no clue how refreshing that sounds to an old dude like me that hot water works for salts in corrosive ammo residue in barrels - because somebody on U-tube says so.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Yeah, was posted here or in another thread - some people keep asking questions until they get the answer that they were looking for, to start with. Some of us spent years wrecking things / ruining stuff - to find out a more correct way to do things - long before there was an Internet in everyone's face. Is a different way of learning, these days, I think...
Ya got that right!!
I have shot 10's of thousands of corrosive rnds through AK's vz58's type 81 and sks's and never once used water I just clean it like i normally would hoppes patch till it come clean then patch with oil till it comes clean then put it away never had rust
gewehr76
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
If you want an object to be clean, use soap and water. If you need to preserve the object use oil.
If you have dirty salt covered car in the winter, you just use hot boiling water to clean it? No. You use soap and water at the car wash to clean it. Car will be clean until next trip.
Same with the gun. Clean soot and corrosive salts away with soapy water. Then lube metal parts after.
Metal will never rust if its clean and lubed.
If you have dirty salt covered car in the winter, you just use hot boiling water to clean it? No. You use soap and water at the car wash to clean it. Car will be clean until next trip.
Same with the gun. Clean soot and corrosive salts away with soapy water. Then lube metal parts after.
Metal will never rust if its clean and lubed.
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
Clean with boiling water, it dissolves and flushes any corrosive salts left behind. Powder fouling to an extent as well, then clean with solvent. Read the field strip and cleaning sticky and it will all make sense, the boiling water gets the steel so hot that any moisture left behind just evaporates. Oil it after you clean and be done with it, it’s simple.
https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...corrosive-ammo-cleaning-lubrication-*updated*
https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...corrosive-ammo-cleaning-lubrication-*updated*
OK, so as an update, I just cleaned the SKS again. Sprayed the inside with windex. Boiled some soapy water in a kettle and poured it down the barrel and gas port till I could only hold it with gloved hands. Water evaporated away, scrubbed with Hoppes bore cleaner, then patched the hell out of it. Once the patches stopped coming out dirty, I applied a good amount of lube to the barrel, the receiver, and the whole gas system. The barrel is rough, the barrel is stained orange still (I assume copper fouling?), and I can see some chips/pits about 6-8 inches down the barrel from the chamber. I don't remember seeing them before, aka a few days ago, but maybe I just missed them. Maybe they're just an illusion or pieces of patch, some tends to get left behind I find. It's pretty shiny when I look down it with a light on the end, so I assume it's ok.
Since you didn't mention it, I assume you don't have a borescope. You should try to find a friend who does so you can 'really see' inside the barrel. It can look 'shiny' from the end, with a light shining thru and still be pretty poor. And if you're seeing 'orange' that's likely Copper fouling which can affect your accuracy as well. You should get some Copper Solvent to address that. Note my pic in Post 18; that barrel shoots ca 2-3" at 50yds with irons off bags. Probably be better if I practised more.
And I had to buy a .338 brass brush since the Russian bores run ca .311-12 and the .30 cal brush just wasn't doing much.
Hope this gives you more ideas,
Buck
And I had to buy a .338 brass brush since the Russian bores run ca .311-12 and the .30 cal brush just wasn't doing much.
Hope this gives you more ideas,
Buck
Ya, I don't have a bore scope, but from what I can see my barrel looks on the better, or at least smoother, side. I've been using the Hoppes 9, I'm told it's a copper solvent. The Windex came out blue so I'm assuming it was eating the copper too. I've managed the same grouping with mine at the same distance while standing, but I'm assuming it was luck since I'm just a novice.
Windex is blue?
JDForBrkFst
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Roughly North Central AB
- Location
- Western Manitoba
And you are now being told, for the second time in this thread, and about 10th time on this website from multiple posters, that Hoppe's #9 in the 1960's was a good product, but formulation was changed some years ago - modern Hoppe's #9 about good, today, as a cologne - about the only thing left the same is the smell, which some of us find to have a certain appeal. Is not a copper solvent any more - at least not a very good one compared to current products. Not sure how it does on powder fouling either - certainly not nearly as effective as modern bore cleaners.
One version of Windex contains ammonia - it may have some utility for removing some contaminants - get and use some household or janitorial ammonia if that is what you are after - and risk burning or etching the finish within your bore - but may as well also try 3 in 1 oil, ATF, motor oil, WD-40, etc. - all have been used - some might even remove stuff from the bore - not what any were made to do, though. If you want cheap stuff - look up "Ed's Red" and make it up - and read what it is good for - off hand, I do not recall that it is a really good copper solvent.
As mentioned previously in this thread - hot water will remove the salt residue from corrosive primers. 300 years of military experience says that hot water is what you want to use - not oils or soaps or other substances - for those corrosive salts. Other products might be needed for removing powder fouling and then perhaps a separate product for copper deposits - assuming that your ammo is not using cupro-nickle jackets, which is yet another process to remove.
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try a .323 brush you will thank me ...
why will you listen to the older people with experience when you have the time, money and energy to experiment ....
Just as many tell us it is a waste of time, because modern chemicals dissolve salts, better than water. The old timers never had the mineral solvents that we have now, or Hoppes number 9.I use what works, not what people claim. People were very stupid in the old days.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
I would be interested in that - can you give me the name of a "modern chemical" that dissolves salts better than hot water does??
A quick look on Google says the original Hoppe's gun cleaner was invented in 1903. Have not yet found when Hoppe's #9 was created - I am presuming it was the 9th version of the original, but could have just been a catchy marketing name?? 1903 was considerably before WWI - so probably what most of us call "old timers" likely were familiar with a bottle of gun cleaner stuff with Hoppe's name on it.
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