Marble S1 tang aperture sight

[Southcountryguy]

As it states I have a Marble S1 aperture tang sight on my model 99. My issue is that it shoots 4” high and left with current avail. ammunition. I do reload but would rather move sights than tailor loads to sights.

My question is how can I accomplish windage adjustment other than shimming?

Is anyone willing to make a new aperture that the sight hole can be offset from center to make this sight adjustable? I can ship sight to you.

Thoughts? I know there is major brain power here. Rifle is a family heirloom so I wish to modify nothing that can’t be undone. Buying a Lyman 29 1/2 or 30 is the obvious answer. But I am willing to pay to have one made.

Thanks for your time.

TIA

SCG

 

[vagrantviking]

Never had a 99 so don't know what the front sight is like but I would have thought it was dovetail so you could do windage adjustment there.
If not then shims might be worth a try but a different sight is probably the best course.

 

[Southcountryguy]

Never had a 99 so don't know what the front sight is like but I would have thought it was dovetail so you could do windage adjustment there.
If not then shims might be worth a try but a different sight is probably the best course.

Thanks but this model has an integral front sight with a blade that is not moveable for windage.

 

[Blastattack]

You could also buy a brand new Marbles sight that is windage and elevation adjustable.

 

[smokinbarrel]

You can figure out the adjustment mathematically. If you are 4' at 100yds. You have to get everything on a common denominator.
So, say your sights are 2' apart 4/300 X x/ 2 4x2=8 8 divided by 300=.026 so .026" is the amount your aperture needs to move.
You could either weld it up and redrill or file it sideways then round out the hole, but you will end up with a fairly big hole.
Shimming is a little more hit and miss, but once you get the right thickness, bed it in JB weld or similar.
I would take my feeler gauges to the range, you can move it in or out of side slightly as needed, when you hit the right spot mark it with a sharpie, then jb weld ahead and behind feeler. I just use paste wax as a release agent on the tang.

 

[Southcountryguy]

You can figure out the adjustment mathematically. If you are 4' at 100yds. You have to get everything on a common denominator.
So, say your sights are 2' apart 4/300 X x/ 2 4x2=8 8 divided by 300=.026 so .026" is the amount your aperture needs to move.
You could either weld it up and redrill or file it sideways then round out the hole, but you will end up with a fairly big hole.
Shimming is a little more hit and miss, but once you get the right thickness, bed it in JB weld or similar.
I would take my feeler gauges to the range, you can move it in or out of side slightly as needed, when you hit the right spot mark it with a sharpie, then jb weld ahead and behind feeler. I just use paste wax as a release agent on the tang.

Thanks, the problem is windage of which there is no adjustment.

I will shim, family heirloom I wish not to do more too .

Visiting a local machinist tomorrow for offset aperture. Thanks all. Will see if this helps.

Edited autocorrect hit me. Thanks again.

 

[pjs]

It seems you may be trying to do things the hard way. Paper shims are fine for windage adjustment. Take a screwdriver, paper and a pair of scissors to the range with you. Saturate the paper shims with oil before installing to prevent rust. If you don't have black paper then use a permanent marker before oiling. Do a neat job so there is no paper hanging out the side of the sight.
If it is shooting high and you are out of elevation adjustment then you will need a taller front sight.

 

[Southcountryguy]

It seems you may be trying to do things the hard way. Paper shims are fine for windage adjustment. Take a screwdriver, paper and a pair of scissors to the range with you. Saturate the paper shims with oil before installing to prevent rust. If you don't have black paper then use a permanent marker before oiling. Do a neat job so there is no paper hanging out the side of the sight.
If it is shooting high and you are out of elevation adjustment then you will need a taller front sight.

Haha, maybe. I know shims will work but the offset aperture hole could give me 0.04”, give or take, of windage (and elevation) adjustment or upwards of 5” at 100m. Then I don’t need to go through trial and error of shimming every time I decide to shoot a different load.

A new higher front blade could be put on but I have yet to find one this side of a ridiculous price. Haven’t looked hard either.

Thanks again.

 

[Jahnj0584]

I designed and made a peep site for my Savage Mo 3. If you can post some pics of what you have that would be great.

Can someone build up the front post with weld or a slide over solution, that's not permenant but rigid?

 

[Southcountryguy]

I designed and made a peep site for my Savage Mo 3. If you can post some pics of what you have that would be great.

Can someone build up the front post with weld or a slide over solution, that's not permenant but rigid?

Absolutely. Rear and front sight.

Now the goal is to do nothing permanent AND keep it as close to as is as possible.




Yes it needs a better bluing and cleaning….

SCG

 

[MadDog]

Other options are a Lyman 57 SA, a Redfield 70L or even a Williams S99.

All of them are receiver sights with windage but attach to the same tang sight holes the Marbles fits.

 

[Southcountryguy]

Other options are a Lyman 57 SA, a Redfield 70L or even a Williams S99.

All of them are receiver sights with windage but attach to the same tang sight holes the Marbles fits.

Thanks, changing the sights is the obvious easy answer but I wish to keep it as close as it was. My brain dead side wants historic value.

SCG