Agreed on the 455. The trigger and bolt throw suck compared to the 457.
Tikka T1x for 22 Matches - Outlaw/ORPS ?
- Thread starter -Doug-
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Agreed on the 455. The trigger and bolt throw suck compared to the 457.
I got a mdt xrs, without a cheek riser it was almost impossible for me to have good cheek weld . I want to upgrade the barrel but will probably shoot this season with the factory barrel yet. I tested 10 different types of ammo with mine and eley tenex was by far the best but I couldn't justify the cost so I mostly shoot sk rifle match witch seems to be a good balance between consistency and affordability.
Absolutely, just an option I thought I’d point out incase it was overlooked.
I definitely would agree as well. Was just an option for the fellow.
Regarding the arca rail I’ve ordered one for my T1X that supposedly goes on the UPR as well. I dunno how good they are as I have received it yet. Maybe, and you might know, it’s a POS i believe it was from mountain tactical. I could find receipt as it’s been a few years. Darn thing is sitting at my mailbox in Montana, stupid Covid.
For prs, my suggestion is to get a proper chassis system and upgrade to a very very heavy barrel. The rifle handles like a full size rifle and balanceds really well. The mags haven't been a problem at all by the way.
Other thing i did on mine was stone and square the internal cuts inside the bolt and polish everything after. With an extended mountain tactical bolt its been super smooth and easy to operate.
Other thing i did on mine was stone and square the internal cuts inside the bolt and polish everything after. With an extended mountain tactical bolt its been super smooth and easy to operate.
I like my T1x a lot except for the mags - to be honest they suck. Out of the 5 I have 2 are constantly FTF if I load them to max 10.
Just for that reason should I build another 22 for long range it would be based on a 457.
T1x with IBI fluted barrel.
I swapped barrels myself, a bit of work mainly to headspace. I was lucky and there was not a lot of epoxy holding the OEM barrel in (along with the set screws). There a reports of some having quite a bit of epoxy holding stuff together and quite a bit of heat required to remove the barrel. I had no issues.
KRG Bravo chassis with ARCA Rail and accessories. Forward mount for bipod.
Sterk Bolt Handle and metal bolt shroud
Wiebad cheek pad
Have not messed with the trigger much, dialed it a bit lower than stock - probably at around 2 pounds I think.
Athlon Midas TAC 34MM 5-25X56
DIP 25MOA rail
Burris XTR Signature rings using 25MOA of inserts
with the rail and inserts I have 50MOA added to my scope so can dial out to 500 yards
Testing some SK Std + ammo at 50 yards (and one target at 100). You can see the windage/group change as the wind picked up (three targets on left)
I did a manual holdover for 100 yards rather than dial the scope - hence the first shot low to see what my holdover should be
Upper right target is CCI SV at 50 with 0 wind. Same time as I did the 0.09 with the Std+
If you are just wanting something for 25-100 yards I would suggest finding a takeoff T3x synthetic stock ($130-150 in the EE usually) and get the recoil pad, pistol and fore grips for it (from Stoeger Canada) unless you want to pony up $$$ for a chassis.
Put the chassis money into a scope and rings.
Here are some pics I took with the various stocks:
http s://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/tikka-t1x.6841183/post-8216453
Just for that reason should I build another 22 for long range it would be based on a 457.
T1x with IBI fluted barrel.
I swapped barrels myself, a bit of work mainly to headspace. I was lucky and there was not a lot of epoxy holding the OEM barrel in (along with the set screws). There a reports of some having quite a bit of epoxy holding stuff together and quite a bit of heat required to remove the barrel. I had no issues.
KRG Bravo chassis with ARCA Rail and accessories. Forward mount for bipod.
Sterk Bolt Handle and metal bolt shroud
Wiebad cheek pad
Have not messed with the trigger much, dialed it a bit lower than stock - probably at around 2 pounds I think.
Athlon Midas TAC 34MM 5-25X56
DIP 25MOA rail
Burris XTR Signature rings using 25MOA of inserts
with the rail and inserts I have 50MOA added to my scope so can dial out to 500 yards
Testing some SK Std + ammo at 50 yards (and one target at 100). You can see the windage/group change as the wind picked up (three targets on left)
I did a manual holdover for 100 yards rather than dial the scope - hence the first shot low to see what my holdover should be
Upper right target is CCI SV at 50 with 0 wind. Same time as I did the 0.09 with the Std+
If you are just wanting something for 25-100 yards I would suggest finding a takeoff T3x synthetic stock ($130-150 in the EE usually) and get the recoil pad, pistol and fore grips for it (from Stoeger Canada) unless you want to pony up $$$ for a chassis.
Put the chassis money into a scope and rings.
Here are some pics I took with the various stocks:
http s://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/tikka-t1x.6841183/post-8216453
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Pretty sure you'll be drilling holes in your stock to mount it. Not necessarily a bad thing, but paying extra for a stock you need to drill holes into seems like a waste when there are chassis and chassis-ish stocks out there (IE KRG Bravo).
At the end of the day, in my opinion, if you're planning to get serious about precision shooting, don't buy a wood stock.
All great info and replies so far, I appreciate it everyone, thanks!
I am noticing a trend in discussions I am having …. Lots of love for the IBI barrels!
Realistically how much of a difference does the new barrel make for in match use (trying to shoot off a ladder).
I am noticing a trend in discussions I am having …. Lots of love for the IBI barrels!
Realistically how much of a difference does the new barrel make for in match use (trying to shoot off a ladder).
My factory 457 MTR match was a tack driver straight out of the box but my personality wanted more so for my 457 barrel swap I went with the Lilja barrel because of the adjustable headspace. No need for lathe.
This is how easy it is for CZ owners:
No regrets with my decision to go with a Lilja and yes this barrel is producing amazing results with my lot of Remington/Eley Match that I save for any Outlaw match I attend or I just want to remind myself for sweet my rifle is.
For any type of positional shooting no barrel will help if the shooter is shaking, unstable and has poor shooting technique. Now we're talking skills and practice.
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For matches your rifle needs practical accuracy, not benchrest accuracy.
More is obviously better overall, but it comes to deminishing returns. $2k to gain 1/4" better results when the rifle only cost $800 that gave you 1/2" results.
You'll be better off finding consistency in your ammo then blowing big money on any barrel.
Unless your extremely experienced/trained. Even then, consistent ammo will give you the biggest gain over a barrel change.
Buuut, then there is the general rule that the gun is the cheapest purchase, as ammo will always outweigh the cost of the gun in the long term.
There is no best gun in production division that is winning canada. Its being a better shooter that really wins.
I would spend less on the gun, more on the optic. Cheap guns still shoot 3/4moa with some great ammo.
Find a good ammo that had a low deviation and practice out to 3/400m with wind.
Learn, buy gear slowly. (Buy arca off the hop, don't go picatinny)
Then sell your used rifle for pennies off your purchase and buy what you now have learned what you need.
Thats the most sensible.
Or just buy a vudoo/rimX, chassis, mind blowing glass and feed it some bulk winchest 333.
More is obviously better overall, but it comes to deminishing returns. $2k to gain 1/4" better results when the rifle only cost $800 that gave you 1/2" results.
You'll be better off finding consistency in your ammo then blowing big money on any barrel.
Unless your extremely experienced/trained. Even then, consistent ammo will give you the biggest gain over a barrel change.
Buuut, then there is the general rule that the gun is the cheapest purchase, as ammo will always outweigh the cost of the gun in the long term.
There is no best gun in production division that is winning canada. Its being a better shooter that really wins.
I would spend less on the gun, more on the optic. Cheap guns still shoot 3/4moa with some great ammo.
Find a good ammo that had a low deviation and practice out to 3/400m with wind.
Learn, buy gear slowly. (Buy arca off the hop, don't go picatinny)
Then sell your used rifle for pennies off your purchase and buy what you now have learned what you need.
Thats the most sensible.
Or just buy a vudoo/rimX, chassis, mind blowing glass and feed it some bulk winchest 333.
I stopped practicing the solid barricade/ladder type positions because my group size was being limited by my stock T1X barrel using ammo like SK Rifle Match. I couldn’t break down whether the rifle or my technique was the issue. With a $600 IBI barrel, now SK Standard+ approaches 1 MOA for 10 shots at 100yds. That means a group larger than 1 1/2” at 100 is my positional fault. That being said, most people do not practice with the focus and volume that I do, so they may not bump into the stock barrel limits for a bit longer. My ammo cost last year was probably around $3500. Range memberships around $500. $200 every time I fill up my truck. $270 for groceries at Safeway this morning. YMMV.
While I agree with most of your comment (it's about the shooter, get decent FFP optics and find ammo your gun shoots best), I question the claim that "cheap guns" (ie under $450CAD) can come anywhere close to repeatable 3/4" five shot groups at 100 yards.
the most important difference between the precision cz rifles and the tikka is the chamber. I would like to know if anyone has rechambered the factory tikka barrel to match spec rather than spending big money on a new barrel. if the tikka rimfire barrels are produced on the same line as the sako/tikka centerfire barrels then there really is no advantage to buying an aftermarket barrel, just cut a new chamber. for the competition shooters out there I don't know how this would affect the classification of the rifle.
In me personal experience - My stock T1x barrel was VERY picky on ammo. I wasn't getting consistency from ammo even ammo like Center-x or any of the SK batches. I was getting some kind of consistency with Eley sport but still had some super strange fliers. I was also not willing to shell out for something like Eley Tenex because I used to shoot 1000+ rounds a month. I went the IBI route as 1. From reports - IBI was not as picky on ammo and the majority was getting good results from almost all SK batches. 2.The additional weight assisted in a better balance in the MDT ACC chassis. 3.Aesthetically the longer and thicker barrel looked better and stuck out a little further from the 19" ACC fore end.
Also to add... The stock trigger was great but for $12+- a YoDave was a no brainer. The mags I have been using have been flawless - IF you ensure that all rounds are inserted properly and seated all the way to the back! Over all I am more than happy with the rifle as it is now and from a bag and bipod the groups are more than adequate for myself out the the 200y limit my range offers and even more so for PRS22 and NRL22 applications.
To end off with and to answer your question - "Realistically how much of a difference does the new barrel make for in match use" - Confidence!!! Confidence that your round will impact where you are aiming. Confidence that your correction for a miss is for an environmental factor or dope issue instead of inconsistent ammo.
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I am not a gunsmith but I am guessing that rechambering the barrel would require that the barrel be shortened due to the standard chamber being larger than a match chamber. I MIGHT BE WRONG as I have never studied the stock chamber or its dimensions. I am too lazy to walk downstairs and inspect the stock barrel but this might then cause issues with tightening the barrel again with the 3 set screws. With that being said rechambering might improve it if possible.
My plan is to shoot CCI standard or Subs as I will be able to practice more with them so I think any invest on an upgraded barrel on my end will be a wash.
From what I’ve heard CCi standards will do the trick for ORPS style matches.
Bench rest maybe not.
I think my options after I get a chance to hold them come down to:
-Cheapo CZ457 base model with potential to upgrade after
-T1x with potential to upgrade
-heavy barrel CZ457 like a precision or MDT combo and just leave it as is
Won’t be buying anything until I get a chance to hold the CZ.
Better yet shoot the tikka or CZ. Would love to feel the triggers on them.
From what I’ve heard CCi standards will do the trick for ORPS style matches.
Bench rest maybe not.
I think my options after I get a chance to hold them come down to:
-Cheapo CZ457 base model with potential to upgrade after
-T1x with potential to upgrade
-heavy barrel CZ457 like a precision or MDT combo and just leave it as is
Won’t be buying anything until I get a chance to hold the CZ.
Better yet shoot the tikka or CZ. Would love to feel the triggers on them.
Unsure where you are, or can’t remember, but I have both cz and tikka’s you are welcome to try if close.
I like tikka triggers better, even after springs.
