Help needed selecting ammo

Vstobinskii

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This is my first post and, I have a question about ammo selection.

I have a Tikka t3x tac a1 in .223 no modifications.

I have been using PMC Bronze 223 Rem, 55 gr, FMJ-BT Ammunition because at the time that is all I could get in bulk. I do not mind the ammo at all but was wondering if I can push the accuracy a bit more with heavier rounds. The range I go to has targets all the way to 600 Meters which is my goal for this year. I am pretty new to actually understanding and selecting ammo types.

Is there any rounds that are known to work really well with the gun or do I just have to start experimenting?

Thanks!
 
Have a friend I shoot with a lot. He has a Tikka 223. He had to go to heavier bullets. Like 60 or 70 grain. Would have to contact him to get exact grains. Once he moved to the heavier rounds his group tightened up a lot.
 
I figured I would have to go heavy, It is just difficult finding ammo that is heavier.

Thanks a bunch for looking into it.
 
Heavier projectiles generally equate tighter groups at further ranges, barrel twist ratio considered. You can buy "match" grade ammunition that will generally provide greater consistency than milsurp or hunting ammunition. If you really want to push it out there and test the limits of your skill and rifle, nothing will beat tailored cartridges fine tuned to your rifle.
 
How do I determine the best ammo for twist Ratio?

Google just that. For .223 something around 1:8 is the jack of all trades for generic ammunition (55-62gr,) that will close a bit if you get into 77gr+ match ammo. Rule of thumb is the heavier the projectile, the faster twist you need. Projectile length also plays a factor, in correlation with twist ratio. Also consider hollow points for contributing accuracy factors.

https://www.rifleshootermag.com/editorial/rifling-twist-tips-various-bullet-weights/390277
 
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Thanks for the article! I was trying to google best rounds for my specific rifle but that gave no results. I googled around for my twist rate and the best weight loads for that and found basically what you said and that the 1-8" twist I have is pretty good and can take some heavier match ammo such as 77 grain. Kinda expensive for my blood and honestly I can use cheaper rounds for practice but it is worth seeing what the rifle can really do. Does the barrel length also come into consideration here? it is a 20-inch barrel.
 
Thanks for the article! I was trying to google best rounds for my specific rifle but that gave no results. I googled around for my twist rate and the best weight loads for that and found basically what you said and that the 1-8" twist I have is pretty good and can take some heavier match ammo such as 77 grain. Kinda expensive for my blood and honestly I can use cheaper rounds for practice but it is worth seeing what the rifle can really do. Does the barrel length also come into consideration here? it is a 20-inch barrel.

20inch barrel is pretty well optimal for most .223 cartidges. Shorter and you are wasting charge, longer and you are increasing drag.
 
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I'd try ruag from csc just to see if your rifle likes it

https://store.theshootingcentre.com/ruag-gp90-5-56x45mm-63-gr-fmj-surplus-ammunition/
 
This is very poor advice, increasing Drag????

Should've specified, Drag in the barrel you know.. friction? ...As in, the charge is depleted before the projectile exits the barrel. Poor advice though? would you recommend a longer barrel for .223 accuracy with modern powder?

OP, careful what you say around here, everyone is a bit on edge these days.

he's probably mixed up is rimfire knowledge with his centerfire knowledge, or copied and pasted from the wrong forum

neither, just a failure to communicate.
 
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Should've specified, Drag in the barrel ...As in, the charge is depleted before the projectile exits the barrel. Poor advice though? would you recommend a longer barrel for .223 accuracy?

OP, careful what you say around here, everyone is a bit on edge these days.

with a centerfire barrel, pressure keeps building until the bullet leaves the barrel, longer barrels result in faster velocity, unlike rimfire barrels where the powder charge is only enough to build pressure to about 20 inches of barrel length, then yes a rimfire barrel long produces drag on the bullet
 
with a centerfire barrel, pressure keeps building until the bullet leaves the barrel, longer barrels result in faster velocity, unlike rimfire barrels where the powder charge is only enough to build pressure to about 20 inches of barrel length, then yes a rimfire barrel long produces drag on the bullet

https://survivalfreedom.com/what-is-the-best-barrel-length-for-accuracy-optimal-guide/

Here's a reference, not that I cut a pasted anything, but you guys inspired me to validate my opinion. Although I did say "pretty well optimal" I appear to have been off by and inch or two, this article suggests 21"-22" is optimal for your rifle OP.
 
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20 inch barrels vibrate less, that part he got right, but the rest of of his dribble is just that lol........

So what is the optimal barrel length for .223 and why? (specifically pertaining to bench accuracy, at longer ranges as the OP inquired)
 
So what is the optimal barrel length for .223 and why? (specifically pertaining to bench accuracy, at longer ranges as the OP inquired)

A 30 inch barrel is going to have a LOT more velocity than a 20 inch barrel...time of flight at long range makes a HUGE difference in accuracy under varying atmospheric conditions.
 
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A 30 inch barrel is going to a LOT more velocity than a 20 inch barrel...time of flight at long range makes a HUGE difference in accuracy under varying atmospheric conditions.

Learn something new everyday. I was under the impression, from numerous sources that there is a cut off point, and that 20" had been proven the best balance for readily available, factory ammunition. Again, thanks for the insight, much more productive than the criticism.
 
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