Sight adjustment
- Thread starter wkp774
- Start date
billbmcleod
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Back very close to Bruce County
A pin punch to but it in the centre of the dovetail otherwise it will look weird. I recall they did have a dovetail.
If its anything like the Savage I recently bought, you'll need to whack the crap out of it. The manufacturer told me a gentle tap would be needed... after an hour of trying, had to pull out a real hammer and smack it like crazy. I think mine has a manufacturer defect and Savage would not own up to making an inferior product. Just keep in mind, you could mess up the blueing in the process. Start with a wood dowel, move to brass... and if unlucky like me, try a 40 lb sledge hammer (kidding of course).
Kinda why hoping there is a tool, whaking with a hammer cant lead to fine tuning accuracy.
Youd be surprised. The dovetails are tapered, so it gets incrementally harder to drift it one way or the other. I use a vernier to measure if I'm actually drifting it, and by how much.
Done it many times, looking for a better way.
Williams makes a sight pusher for dovetail sights in a base, you could probably rig something similar or modify it it to work on a barrel cut dovetail if your handy.
The main thing when drifting with a punch and hammer is supporting the barrel so that 100% of impact is going into the sight being drifted and not a soft surface that is supporting the barrel.
The main thing when drifting with a punch and hammer is supporting the barrel so that 100% of impact is going into the sight being drifted and not a soft surface that is supporting the barrel.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Williams makes a sight pusher for dovetail sights in a base, you could probably rig something similar or modify it it to work on a barrel cut dovetail if your handy.
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I own one like that shown in picture - the body is made of an aluminum. Must have dealt with some "too tight" sights - it bowed - I straightened it - it bows easier now. So, it can generate more "push" force than the body can take - I suppose something has to yield first - would have thought that would have been the sight insert in the dovetail, but not so.
If you are going to make one, the threaded part acts on a push rod - not directly on the sight insert - nothing rotates that touches the insert - the two studs on back side to hold against the sight ramp, and one push rod that pushes against the sight insert
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Just tried it, worthless piece of crap.
Mainly the pusher, needs to be twice as deep on the toz I tried it on. Debating modifying it or sending it back. As it is the best it could do is bend the sight. Dont think it has enough clamping force either.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
I might have misunderstood, but I think a pusher does it's thing against the base of the sight - not real sure I understand how the sight could get bent by a pusher, unless it was applied against the sight's stem??? The picture in Post #7 is how I thought they were to be used - against the base.
To shallow to reach the base, top of sight is against the threads of the bolt and the pusher only reaches halfway to the base.
Not the tool in post 7, that one should work. Apparently this is made for pistols, wont work on my rifles.Attachments
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The one from amazon is made for specific model of pistol, there are universal pistol drifters that are more expensive but made to adjust to different slide dimensions and sights. The one I posted from Williams is designed to work with driftable sights that are cut into a sight base... not so much for a sight dovetail that is cut into the barrel with no base.
At the end of the day, with a good hammer and punch (hard wood, hard plastic, brass) and with the barrel well supported by a block of wood near the dovetail so all the impact force is going into the sight, and with an understanding of which way the sights are typically installed (many dovetail cuts are tapered) if you want to remove the sight... you will be fine adjusting it the old school way....
At the end of the day, with a good hammer and punch (hard wood, hard plastic, brass) and with the barrel well supported by a block of wood near the dovetail so all the impact force is going into the sight, and with an understanding of which way the sights are typically installed (many dovetail cuts are tapered) if you want to remove the sight... you will be fine adjusting it the old school way....
gunrunner100
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- NW Ontario
The Williams and B-Square shown work best on sights with ramps, not on barrel cut dovetails. I use a hockey puck with a narrow channel cut across it and a good brass punch with hammer.
