That serial number etched into your AG42 may not be the work of bubba - pretty sure they came that way out of the factory
They are all like that, was done at the factory when they were upgraded to AG42B
That serial number etched into your AG42 may not be the work of bubba - pretty sure they came that way out of the factory
That serial number etched into your AG42 may not be the work of bubba - pretty sure they came that way out of the factory
They are all like that, was done at the factory when they were upgraded to AG42B
Now I've got this thing cleaned up a bit more, your both correct. The electropen scribe is actually the serial number. Looks dumb, but that wasn't the big concern when it was done.
Mines dated 1943 if thats matters or not on these rifles.
Are mags serial number matched?
Mine is a 1945 production, no number on the mag.
I assume it was made by Husqvarna since the little crowns that are stamped into the various parts are slanted
What the going rate for hakims with the bayonet?
The thing that is really bothering people like myself about collecting is that there is so much to take in, history, evolution, markings, reals/fakes, prices. and the fact there isnt much breathing room for mistakes or regrets in the current market.
Personally im starting to take more interest in restoration instead of collecting.
I just restored a beat up reenactors garand into an repo m1d. I dont feel bad for bastardizing an already beat to death rifle, and i find a lot more pride in a restoration than a cool purchase.
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My goal was that I had to do everything myself.
I only took the critical stuff like barrelling and head spacing to a gunsmith
Now all my friends want garands lol
Sorry to be a pedant but you can't restore something to what it never was to begin with. Building a repro M1D is fine, it looks like you did a nice job. I totally agree with what you're saying about lack of breathing room, new collectors who got burned 10yrs ago by paying $180 for a $100 Carcano had a softer landing than the poor bugger today buying bubba's stock set sporter rebuld No4 Mk1 for $1000. With prices the way they are, research, reference books, and patience are far more important than a fat wallet.
Is a sporterized Enfield (No4 Mk1 Fez for reference) worth finding an original full stock to put on? (Dated Jan 49, number matching receiver, bolt and mag, uncut barrel, elevator sight intact. just missing the front sight hood (I think it should have had one)). Barrel looks really nice.
IF the guns worth say $300 (spitballing, no idea really) "as is", is spending $x on wood worth it for a regular, what I think is a run of the mill 303. Will it always be a bastardchild gun since the wood isn't original?
IMHO, YES, but it will only be worth what you paid for the rifle and the sum of its parts, give or take 10%, depending on how well the restoration was done and of course the flow of the market at any given time.
Prices tend to be slightly lower until tax return season gets underway.
Sorry to be a pedant but you can't restore something to what it never was to begin with. Building a repro M1D is fine, it looks like you did a nice job. I totally agree with what you're saying about lack of breathing room, new collectors who got burned 10yrs ago by paying $180 for a $100 Carcano had a softer landing than the poor bugger today buying bubba's stock set sporter rebuld No4 Mk1 for $1000. With prices the way they are, research, reference books, and patience are far more important than a fat wallet.
That would be true if most people buying them were doing so to have a "real" unmolested example for collector purposes.
Most people purchasing the put togethers, even at $1K are looking for "shooters" and at today's prices of commercial sporting rifles $1k doesn't seem to be unreasonable to them.
What's the difference between a put together and an armory FTR, other than the stamps, if the job has been done properly???
Snob appeal is one thing, the reality of actual supply is another.
That doesn't mean I don't really appreciate and unmolested piece by any means.
I’ve bolded the difference. I personally know maybe 2 people who I would trust to assemble a No 1 Mk III and 4 a No4 Mk1 correctly. The specifics of bedding the draws, upwards pressure of the forestock, length of the guard screw bushing and more are all things that I have seen from personal experience are not understood by many parts kit builders. As I know you know, there’s more to it than plug and play. For people buying these rifles as shooters it’s even more important to have them built properly so that the system functions as intended. My snob appeal is for things that have been done properly with research and forethought.