38SW Load Development

Ganderite

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I was never a fan of the 38 S&W. At age 10 I shot it for the first time. It was my father’s issue Smith M&P, shooting military issue ammo. A friend of his in the Army gave him a case of ammo, so we would occasionally plink at the local garbage dump.

My opinion of the 38S&W was formed when we posted targets on a small sheet of ¾” plywood. When we took the target down, the bullet were all stick out of the wood, like darts. In hindsight, I am now suspicious that the plywood was hardwood plywood (is there such a thing?)
In addition to the ubiquitous bucket of old chrome plate, break-action Ivor Johnsons, I have 5 real revolvers in that caliber. Three Webleys (2 4” and one 2”), a Smith Victory 5” and a Smith M33 4”.

I decided to develop a load for them. I picked up a box of un-sized DRG 158SWC in addition to the usual DRGs, sized .358” The unsized ran around .361”

The 38 S&W is supposed to have a .361” barrel, unlike the 38Spl which is .357”. A crude exam of my guns suggests that the M33 and the Webleys have the larger bore and I think my Victory has a .357” barrel.

So I was wondering which bullet would work best. Maybe the .361” barrels would do better with the fatter bullets?

I made 50 of each load. I loaded 2.3, 2.6 and 2.9gr of Win231 for each bullet (6 different loads) plus I tried some expensive lead 148 hollow base wad cutters. I hoped the hollow base would expand to obdurate in each barrel size. (It did.)
The 2.3 gr load was very light. (500 fps) The 357 bullet was erratic velocity in the Victory, but the .361” bullet shot very well. So the fatter bullet sealed better in the bigger bore.

But with the hotter loads of 2.6 and 2.9, both size bullets worked well in both size barrels. They produced groups I scored a Good or very Good in each gun. The Webley seemed to prefer the standard 357 bullets and the Victory did slightly better with the .361”. This was counter intuitive, but I don’t argue with my guns when they tell me what they prefer.

So, if you want to load for a 38S&W, you can just buy the cheaper regular diameter bullets.

I found that 2.6 gr of Win 231 (HP38) gave a velocity of 660 fps, which is about right for that caliber. The 2.9 gr load gave 755fps, which is about the same as a 38Spl.

I loaded the 148 HBWC with 2.2gr of Win 231, and they shot very well in all the guns. This would be my "universal" load, except that it an expensive bullet. The lead DRGs 158SWC are only $40/500.

I found that by looking at that dinky little case as a “9mm Rimmed”, it got a little more respect. The 9mm and the 38S&W cases are almost identical. I crimped the bullet into the crimp groove of the bullet. Some crimp is important because the .357 bullet is not a super tight fit in the case.

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Part way through sizing my bucket of brass, I broke the little decapper pin in my Lyman 38S&W sizing die, and as luck would have it, it was my last pin. No other decapper pin brand will fit a Lyman die.

So I installed a Hornady 9mm Makarov die and carried on. It does not size the case quite as much, but enough to guarantee the case will fit each on my guns.

I loaded the ammo on my Dillon, using the 9mm dies, without the 9mm sizer. The cases were all sized and primed in advance. Since the 38S&W is about the same size as a 9mm, this set up works perfectly, with a small change in the mouth flare and crimp.
 
Better shot than me. I never do notice much difference with the diameter of cast bullets in a Webley or Victory.

I was surprised at how accurate the Webley was. I shoot well enough to see a difference in various loads.

The real good group on the right was 158 gr DRG SWC sized .358 with 2.6gr of 231. This is an "undersized" bullet for a real 38S&W, but performs well, and is the cheapest bullet available.

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Thank you for the post. I shoot a fair bit of 38 S&W with a pet load using Green Dot. I am getting to the last of my Green Dot and have tried the light load of 231 with mediocre results. I will try a slightly faster load and see if my groups shrink with the 231.
 
Any recommendations for loading this cartridge in the break action Iver-Johnson guns? Are they considerably weaker? I may be looking at that soon to help a friend get through the drought.
 
Good info in this thread. Anyone else get heavy powder residue using 231. Even with a firm crimp. My usual loading is 2.6 grains, or is 231 just a dirty powder
 
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Any recommendations for loading this cartridge in the break action Iver-Johnson guns? Are they considerably weaker? I may be looking at that soon to help a friend get through the drought.

The First and Second Model Iver Johnsons were both designed for black powder cartridges, although shooting smokeless through a well-maintained example won't cause it to spontaneously explode as many suggest, it will vastly decrease the amount of time before the gun loosens up or falls out of time.

As to the strengths, the 3rd model 4-pin frame was made with stronger vanadium steel and a coil mainspring and was fully intended for smokeless powder, when at factory specs it can handle most any standard load - where it is weaker than the Webley is in the amount of time it will take for the gun to stretch. Think how every time a round goes off, the barrel and cylinder are trying to pivot downwards on the hinge, being only impeded by the latch mechanism. On the Iver Johnson, H&R and various others this is just a T-shaped bar between two opposing notches like so: I T I Over time the notches will be worn down and the T latch may stretch which creates slop in the action.

Compare that to the Webley where the barrel and latch are all one integral piece with the thumb-latch locking over top of the entire assembly. This design is much less prone to stretching in the first place and can take a lot more abuse.

What is important to note however is restorative maintenance. When the Webley goes, it is pretty much gone, the entire top-strap will be bent and requires a lot of effort to get it back into factory spec. Compare this to the "weaker" Iver Johnson, when they go, all it takes is some shimming/reforming around the notches and possibly replacing the T latch and you are back in business. This fitment is especially important on these older guns however, as many have lived rough service lives, seeing hard use with various ammo types and often suspect maintenance cycles.
 
The gun I would be loading for appears to be in excellent shape, basically new and definitely a smokeless gun. I don't know much else offhand other than that but your information is excellent and appreciated. I wish it were mine but I lack the special permission to legally own such a deadly device.
 
Good info in this thread. Anyone else get heavy powder residue using 231. Even with a firm crimp. My usual loading is 2.6 grains, or is 231 just a dirty powder

While I get no powder residue using W231 in .45acp & .38 spl, I get a significant amount when loading 231 in my .44 Mag for Cowboy Action shooting. I'm currently looking at going with Unique in my .44's.
 
I use unique in 455. It is awesome. I still have a full jug of 231...gonna be a long time to get rid of it at 2.6 grains a piece. Haha
 
I've been trying Herco with 125 Grn cast round nose bullets sized 0.360".
Loaded some 3.0 and 3.4 Grain crimping bullets.
Hopkins and Allens pistol and an Iver Johnson Cadet with a new bbl on it 4".
Will see how it works
 
My Pet Loads for IDPA is using the Lee TL-356-158-RN, Powder coated these come out at 164gr and 0.362 on the diameter. using 2.3gr of 700x at the moment for 675 FPS, however i have found that 3gr of unique is more accurate while also getting a bit more velocity at 750 fps. Use both of these loads for IDPA competetion in an enfield no2 mk1 revolver.
 
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