lathe / mill

jethunter

jethunter

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What features should one be looking for in a lathe and mill (or combo)? Primary uses will be building small parts, crowning, and some chambering.

What size, speeds, features, etc. should i be considering? Specific models?
 
For doing barrel work, there are basically two ways of mounting the barrel in a lathe. The barrel can be supported through the spindle. This requires a spindle bore larger than the diameter of the largest barrel on which you will be working. Or, the barrel can be supported by the spindle at one end, and on the tailstock centre or steady rest at the other end. This requires a lathe with a centre to centre distance longer than the longest barrel on which you will be working. Check the specs. on any lathe you are considering. It is preferable to have a lathe large enough to have choices. A lathe at least 10x36 with a 1 1/2" spindle bore would allow options.
If you are going to be cutting threads on the lathe, a threading dial is a great convenience. Many combination machines lack this feature, and while threads can be cut without it, it is awkward. A quick change gearbox also makes life easier.
The design of most combination machines involves compromises. Everything else being equal, separate machines are probably preferable. Its not that good work cannot be done using a combo, its just easier with stand alone machines.
Also, a good larger machine is preferable to a good smaller one. A large machine can do anything a small one can do, but the opposite is not true.
If you search here and elsewhere you will find many opinions about which machines are best. There are lots of choices. You can make yourself crazy wondering about whether it is better to buy new (which will probably mean an Oriental machine, unless your wallet is thick enough to cause discomfort), or used.
 
Well Said,
I have a combo mill drill and although good for small jobs it lacks heavily in most smithing jobs
also for threading most mill drill machines I've seen will not turn slow enough for a proper job of threading
My next lathe will be a real lathe:)
 
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201029

A great machine for the money..and it has a threading dial,even though theres no need to be unlocking the half nut while cutting threads.
1 1/8 bore,power feeds,comes with a steady and follower rest,runs on 115 volts,and has more capacity than the biggest 115v lathe they have

The sale is still on until the 8th of January,pick up a 4-jaw chuck and a riser table while you're at it
 
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You having trouble getting yours to turn slow?
On it's lowest speed it's perfect for any threading job

Part # B008 or B009 for the 4 jaw..can't remember which,but i think it was B008
 
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the lowest setting is 160 i'd like 60 -90 makes a much nicer thread
Thanks for the part#s I'll call them in the new year
 
I wonder if it would be possible to use a variable speed control on the motor? I, too, prefer to use a lower rpm when threading. Reduces the chance of running the tool into the barrel's shoulder.
You know, unless a machine tool is absolute boat anchor grade, a lot of work can be done with one. I've used a South Bend heavy 10 that had about 1/4" slop in the cross feed - the crossfeed leadscrew's threads were worn round. But I could centre a barrel in the spindle, and the tailstock lined up. Could cut a good chamber or crown with it. Wouldn't even consider trying to cut threads, though. Did those on a tighter, but smaller SB 10K. Better to have a machine with a few warts, than no machine at all. You can work around problems.
The 1 1/8" spindle bore on your machines will pass most any barrel you would likely work on. If the breech of the barrel is a bit larger, it can project out toward the tailstock a bit, no problem.
A four jaw chuck is a must. Combined with a spider or cathead for the other end of the spindle, and a set of plug gauges (w ww.meyergage.com), and you can dial a barrel in very nicely, indicating off the bore.
 
Hitachi makes single phase variable frequency drives. You can pick them up on ebay now and again. This is a good way to add variable speed to a lathe. I know one fellow that put a linear transducer on the infeed so that the RPM changed based on the diameter.
 
svt-40 said:
The main feature is that it should not be made in China.
Click to expand...
These days that's near impossible unless you don't mind paying 5 x the $ or don't mind working with a 30 year old machine that weighs 2 tons

A lot of the heavier chineese machines are pretty damn good
 
Lathe Choice

I would chose the largest machine I could afford and have room for. My first was a very old 9in long bed South Bend. A really beautiful machine in it's day but I found it a too light. I now have a 13X40 Asian gearhead I got through Modern Tool. I'm glad I made the change as it can handle a much larger variety of work.
The basics on the Asian stuff is good, their often copies of North American or European Machines, but the finish and details sometimes need attention. On mine the connection between the taper attachment and cross slide is very sloppy.

In addition to spindle bore size and low speeds for threading Single Phase 220volt electrics avoid hassle with phase converters.

Have fun makin chips
 
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