Good vacuum sealer for ammo?
- Thread starter Steyn
- Start date
Make sure to consider the cost of bags/rolls, and seal bar width too. Thin/flimsy plastic could puncture on a sharp box corner, and I’ve seen lots of complaints about narrow bar width not holding a seal if there’s any debris/moisture when sealed. The expensive chamber vacs can work with much more budget friendly bags that don’t have the special grooves for the common vacuum sealers. My only experience is with a VacMaster Pro350 (one of the higher end non-chamber models) I’ve used mostly for culinary applications but plan to vacuum seal some ammo with desiccant packs.
sillymike
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Not unless it get heated up.
- Went to through a whole slew of Hirtenberger, it was sealed in rubberized pouch. Same for PRVI and the Portuguese stuff
Not yet, but I plan to do so soon. The humidity has been super low here for the winter so I want to do it before spring arrives. I can adjust the vacuum force on mine, so might “back off” a bit so boxes don’t get crushed. I’ve done similar things when vacuum sealing liquids/marinades so the liquid doesn’t get sucked up into the unit.
That’s a good tip about using smooth lined & Mylar bags in the video! I’ll have to keep it in mind.
Not unless it get heated up.
- Went to through a whole slew of Hirtenberger, it was sealed in rubberized pouch. Same for PRVI and the Portuguese stuff
Thank you!
-S.
I’ve been sealing some boxes recently, added a freshly dried desiccant pack and cut notches in the seam so can easily tear open in the future.
One thing I found is it’s easiest to sort of shape the bag fold/seams before sealing, otherwise it can form randomly, and tucking in the excess helps for putting into ammo crate. Controlling pressure is important, I’ve redone a few I felt were too tight. As mentioned earlier as long as air is not freely circulating inside it should be fine if sealed dry with desiccant. While I don’t have huge pockets of air, some you can still shake and hear the rounds sliding inside the box, others not so much. My biggest concern was crushing/deforming rounds, I’d think brass hulls are stronger than a soda/beer can, but I’ve crushed those for fun in a bag before haha. The shotgun shells were a bigger concern since plastic hulls could deform easier. Less vacuum force also is probably easier on the bags at pinch points.
One thing I found is it’s easiest to sort of shape the bag fold/seams before sealing, otherwise it can form randomly, and tucking in the excess helps for putting into ammo crate. Controlling pressure is important, I’ve redone a few I felt were too tight. As mentioned earlier as long as air is not freely circulating inside it should be fine if sealed dry with desiccant. While I don’t have huge pockets of air, some you can still shake and hear the rounds sliding inside the box, others not so much. My biggest concern was crushing/deforming rounds, I’d think brass hulls are stronger than a soda/beer can, but I’ve crushed those for fun in a bag before haha. The shotgun shells were a bigger concern since plastic hulls could deform easier. Less vacuum force also is probably easier on the bags at pinch points.
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I was debating the Weston 2300 and the VacMaster Pro 350/380 as they’re all similar heavy duty suction and dual piston design. I decided on the 350 since on sale at the time so was the best value, can still do 15” bags if you get creative and seal in stages. I definitely agree about the bags, also the seal bar is important. 5mm width bar can seal even if wet usually and holds well, I have stuff in my freezer for over 2 years and no issues.
