Chamber dimension question

No, there is primary extraction but it doesn't move the bolt far enough back to get past the sticky part on the head area of the case...the marks on the case a pretty easy to see, no need to use marker pen.

I'll see if I can see anything in the chamber, thanks

brass will stick to a shiny chamber, crosshatches on the surface help to break the bond and make extraction much easier, a chamber can be to smooth......steel wool wrapped on a wooden dowel and spun with a cordless drill may be all you need to do
 
I am with Potashminer on this one, if you can open the bolt all the way open then have to slap it to get the brass out, you have no primary extraction, and this issue on a factory rifle is very true to two leading manufactures, remington, and savage, the savage is easy to time with a file, the remington requires a gunsmith and the handle relocated..........

The rifle is a Christensen Arms.
 
brass will stick to a shiny chamber, crosshatches on the surface help to break the bond and make extraction much easier, a chamber can be to smooth......steel wool wrapped on a wooden dowel and spun with a cordless drill may be all you need to do

I'm going to give the steel wool a try, I have 0000 wool...should I run it dry or add some gun oil to it?
 
I did not know that a brass case could stick to a smooth, shiny chamber - I had thought the brass was supposed to grab tightly on firing, then relax slightly to allow extraction. For years, I was under the impression that marks in a chamber was a "bad thing". Live and learn, I guess!! :)

I just received a McGowen barrel for a Mauser 98 - the first "factory new" barrel that I ever received - it had an oil/preservative or lube throughout the chamber and bore - I cleaned that all out - is still not fired yet, but would likely play hell with extraction to have that stuff in the chamber and then to fire it that way ...
 
Last edited:
This rifle was rebarreled, first barrel didn't shot good, this barrel shoots good but can't seem to get more than 3 firings on new brass...getting frustrated :(

bring it back to your smith and have him polish the chamber out a thou........faster and easier on a lathe
 
Yeah, I'll give them a call tomorrow and see what they have to say...thanks

check that rifle for primary extraction, as the bolt handle lifts, near the top of the lift you should see the bolt body move rearward in the action, if the handle lifts all the way up with no rearward motion this is likely where your issue is and the bolt needs to be timed
 
Remington jim,... to add to that I just measured new unfired 6.5 PRC hornady loaded ammo and it measures .530 bang on

To me, that chamber in your rifle is to die for.

You may have to consider some graphite powder on a few cases, or maybe some spray on type of graphite.

Messy I know but it will eliminate sticking.
 
Bear HUNTER Quote : Measure the bases of your brass, that will tell you pretty fast if your chamber is on the small side.

I'm willing to bet that rifle is one of the most accurate in your inventory?

I have a rifle, 6.5x57, that I have to full length resize the case after every shot. The chamber in this rifle is right on minimum.

It's very accurate.


So your indicating that if you have a REALLY tight chamber rifle it will more accurate then one with a loser chamber - is that what i read from you ! ? RJ
 
To me, that chamber in your rifle is to die for.

You may have to consider some graphite powder on a few cases, or maybe some spray on type of graphite.

Messy I know but it will eliminate sticking.

spraying any lube on the loaded case and then firing it is a very bad idea, the brass doesn't stick to the chamber when it expands and all that pressure is pushed back directly on the bolt causing the lock lugs to set back into the action, this is a great way to destroy an action and further magnify the lack of primary extraction, but once the barrel is shot out, you can get the action trued back up and the bolt handle welded back on farther down the bolt body to get the primary extraction back.......
 
I fully agree with you. I should have been more specific with my answer.

Graphite on the back 1cm of the case should be acceptable
 
That used to be the consensus of most HBR shooters, back when I was in that game and why reamers were often ordered at ''minimum" spec.

Every rifle I've owned with tight chambers shot extremely well, as long as the chamber was bored true to the axis of the bore.

We can try to split hairs and claim we know of a few one offs where this isn't the case, but generally speaking tight chambers IMHO give more consistent good accuracy.
 
Christensen actions are just cheap ass Remington 700 actions that the mill off some material stamp there name,change the extractor. So consequently they have the same primary extraction issues as a factory Remington . The fact you have tighter chamber than the factory barrel and any contact the extraction cam if any may of had is now worn off.Put some felt marker on the cam area of the bolt to see if it is even contacting ,I bet its not even close.
 
Well, just got the word, the gun is on its way back from repairs...chamber cleaned up and bolt handle repositioned for proper primary extraction ... :)
 
Back
Top Bottom