Browning SA-22 Questions

68mustang

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I did a quick search of the forum and couldn't find what I was after so am putting these questions out to you fine folk.

Rifle belonged to my deceased brother-in-law, sister recently gifted it to me. It is in excellent condition -1963 vintage.

The serrated ring for adjusting the barrel to the receiver - the manual I downloaded from Browning says just turn the ring and you will hear a click as you turn.
My rifle the barrel lock seems to lock the ring in position. The only way the ring will turn is if you remove the barrel lock (being careful not to lose the detent and spring).
It does not ratchet over the barrel lock - and I'm not gonna use pliers or grind anything. I have had this apart and the ring rotates freely without the barrel lock.
Anybody else experience this?


My barrel is not drilled and tapped for a scope mount - however the receiver is grooved for rings. Is it only the newer models that were drilled/tapped?

Is it worth mounting a scope on the receiver with the take down barrel?


Thanks for your assistance!
 
I am still learning but mine is much same. 1960 model as well. Not sure if that’s how it’s supposed to be but I got mine set now and haven’t had to change it in last couple 100 shots.

The drilled and tapped barrels are only on the Miroku Japan made models. I refuse to scope mine as rifle just don’t look right with it.

Have a 2-7 scope on my Ruger 10/22 backpacker for what it’s worth and that works fine. But the browning is just too nice and slender to look right with a scope. It’s a blast to shoot with iron sights at the 25yard range.
 
I've had better luck adjusting for proper tight fit with the barrel off, then attach it, let the bolt slam home a couple times, take it apart again, and you will probably be able to get another click or 2 and still be able to get the barrel back on.
Tighter the better for accuracy.
 
Thanks for the replies - between info here and Rimfire Central I'm satisfied that I won't screw up this sweet little rifle and can have some fun with it!

Be nice to see a manual specific for the mid-sixties rifle.

Thanks!

Fred
 
Thanks for the replies - between info here and Rimfire Central I'm satisfied that I won't screw up this sweet little rifle and can have some fun with it!

Be nice to see a manual specific for the mid-sixties rifle.

Thanks!

Fred

The design hasn't really changed since it was made in 1908 or whenever it was introduced, any manual will apply to your model.
 
Thanks for the replies - between info here and Rimfire Central I'm satisfied that I won't screw up this sweet little rifle and can have some fun with it!

Be nice to see a manual specific for the mid-sixties rifle.

Thanks!

Fred

Fred, look on Browning website and search manuals, if its not there contact them thro the site ans request the manual, I have done this for a couple older rifles and they are quite good at giving a PDF of the manuals
 
Manual I could find from Browning is for current Japanese manufactured.

There is a difference between the barrel lock on the Belgian vs Japanese.

Japanese has updated the barrel lock with 2 detents allowing the serrated nut to turn while being retained. Apparently some have updated the older rifles with parts from Numrich.

Just curious to what Browning says about the earlier style lock.
 
Manual I could find from Browning is for current Japanese manufactured.

There is a difference between the barrel lock on the Belgian vs Japanese.

Japanese has updated the barrel lock with 2 detents allowing the serrated nut to turn while being retained. Apparently some have updated the older rifles with parts from Numrich.

Just curious to what Browning says about the earlier style lock.

email them and ask for a manual of your vintage, same with my 22 BAR they sent me the right one it was a PDF of the manual they obviously photocopied, I will check tonight I have one of your rifles still in the box, if the manual is there I will see if I can get it copied for you
 
It is in excellent condition -1963 vintage.

The serrated ring for adjusting the barrel to the receiver - the manual I downloaded from Browning says just turn the ring and you will hear a click as you turn.
My rifle the barrel lock seems to lock the ring in position. The only way the ring will turn is if you remove the barrel lock (being careful not to lose the detent and spring).
It does not ratchet over the barrel lock - and I'm not gonna use pliers or grind anything. I have had this apart and the ring rotates freely without the barrel lock.
Anybody else experience this?


My barrel is not drilled and tapped for a scope mount - however the receiver is grooved for rings. Is it only the newer models that were drilled/tapped?

Is it worth mounting a scope on the receiver with the take down barrel?


Thanks for your assistance!

I have one made the same year. The barrel lock ring does not ratchet over the lock. You have to take the fore end off, slide the lock out of the way ( you already know about the plunger & spring). Then tighten the ring. You may have to settle for an "in between" position to slide the lock back into place.

Avoid taking the rifle down excessively... it will tend to loosen the barrel.

I never bothered putting a scope on mine, as you would have to rezero after every takedown.
 
Whatever you do
- Don't force the ring, it should turn by hand
- Adjustments are usually made with the barrel off
- When taking the rifle apart, grab it by the action, not the pistol grip... if it's on too-tight if you try to take-it down while grabbing the buttstock... You'll end-up breaking said buttstock
 
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