Wall tent modification?

MD

MD

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I'd like to add two feet of height to my 10x12 canvas wall tent with three-foot walls.



I see boat cover places have material called Sunbrella. Do you think that material would be appropriate to have stitched onto the bottom of my tent? I wonder if it would be a danger close to a stove?
 
I had my Woods 10'x12' wall tent lifted to 5' from 3' by a company in Winnipeg. They used the same material that Woods used and did a nice job extending the doors and re sewing on new sod cloth. It wasn't too expensive and it made a huge difference on the usability of the tent. Check a few tent and awning spots for quotes. I live near enough to Winnipeg that shipping was not an issue.

Darryl
 
Murray Tent and Awning in Winnipeg has modified a couple tents for me, adding sod cloth and stove pipe ring, re-enforcing the ridge. It's always been well done.

I have one tent that I got from a friend who had 2 ft added to the walls, I think at a shop in T-Bay. Not sure what the fabric is, but it's not canvas and it holds up fine near the stove.
I would think most tent and awning type shops could do the work.

 
MD said:
I'd like to add two feet of height to my 10x12 canvas wall tent with three-foot walls.



I see boat cover places have material called Sunbrella. Do you think that material would be appropriate to have stitched onto the bottom of my tent? I wonder if it would be a danger close to a stove?
Click to expand...

In rural small town Saskatchewan was a more or less "industrial" sewing place - not brand name at all - I had them sew two feet to walls of my 10'x12' wall tent - I think they used 10 ounce white cotton canvas which they supplied. They also sewed in a complete floor of the material that CoverAll Building used to use - that I supplied - not sure if the water tight floor was actually good idea or not - but did away with sod-cloth. So, I use 60" 2" x 2" posts to hold up eaves - 5 of them on each side, or perhaps 6, as I remember.
 
We got lucky: One of our hunting buddies' mother is a retired seamstress. She did contract work from home and has an industrial strength sowing machine at home AND even worked for Woods Canada back in the late 70's-early 80's.

She did a bunch of modifications on our 14x16' with 4' walls Woods Prospector tent: chimney hole, fixed our window (it now has 1 internal flap and one external flap, with industrial velcro all around...we were getting a huge cold draft from it before she fixed it)...she even raised everything by 30" and installed a proper door so we'd keep our heat more efficiently (this was great). We now know it's too much of an increase. I would of added an extra 18", maybe 24". The bottom of the window now sits at 5' high and the tent is pretty heavy now. The next step would of been to get an internal frame for the tent so we could setup the frame a few weeks before hand and just pop the canvas over it when we get to camp come hunting season.

You can clearly see the band of new canvas at the bottom...

Hope this image shows up nicely:
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David
 
You are wise to be cautious about the sunbrella material close to the stove.
Have you tried locating some canvas as well MD.
Maybe shout out to the tent company mentioned in one of the above replies for some material to do it yourself ?
Do you have someone on mind to sew this up for you MD small mom/pop upholstery shop might be able to source the materials at a reasonable $$
Rob
 
Thanks rob.

I only contacted one tent manufacturer about the job and the reply was that they were too busy to reply.
 
Very nice stove base :)
Duel purpose type thing, holds air tight stove firm in tent or can be used as a fire pit cooker when camping & not using wall tent.
Make x-braces to fit whatever air tight a person is using or just drop a grill on top for camp fire coal cooking when not tenting.

stove-base.jpg
 
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I immediately modified our moose hunt camp wall tent stove as soon as I purchased it about 20 years ago. The stove is app 1’ square by 2’ long, it has 2 covered stove holes on top and is fed wood through the 1’ end. It was obvious that the bent metal legs were too flimsy, so I bent-up exact replacements out of flat steel stock that are about 3 times as thick. Used thin fire brick in the bottom of the stove to start, but found it was heavy to transport, so triple lined the stove bottom with a piece of folded metal and it has worked fine. A flat sheet of tin under the stove prevents the feet from sinking in the ground and keeps sparks by the stove door from being a hazard. A tri-fold tin reflector at the rear of the stove keeps the tent wall from heating-up. A fire extinguisher is kept handy in the tent and a smoke alarm is wired to the tent peak. Egg cartons or Tim Horton cup holders are handy to light the stove, as is a small propane torch. We also keep a large heavy kettle of hot water on the stove and I was worried that the weight would compress it, so I installed a 90* shelf bracket on the inside to reinforce it. The 5” stove pipe exits out the front wall of the tent so the upper section of pipe needs to be supported on the outside, we do this by sinking a green poplar pole (do not use birch!) into the ground and running it up the side of the pipe which is connected to the pole by wire in 3 places. The pipe has a mesh screen and rain cap on top, when burning poor wood the screen can clog and back-up the stove. After a week of use the pipes can be lined with soot, used a brushy conifer branch to clean them out before bring them home, or else soot makes a mess in transit and storage. The Hunter with the lightest sleeping bag, sleeps near the stove, so he can feed the stove at night. WK
 
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