Ha! "It depends" - I tried on mine - using an m38 turned down bolt - since it was a STIGA sporter is possible that was an m94 turned down bolt handle - that handle hit the eye piece of the scope - so mount scope higher or grind out that handle on top for clearance - in this case would be nothing left of the handle. At one time, TradeEx sold "sporter" bolts - I believe they were straight handle m96 bolt that were sawed off at bolt root, then a scope friendly handle welded back on - is a pretty basic gunsmith thing to do, I gather - so long as you have heat sinks, heat stop paste, etc. to prevent softening the cocking cam on the bolt body when re-welding.
Brownells sells, or at least used to sell, various jigs to hold pieces to weld - could buy "scope friendly" bolt handles to weld on, heat sinks, heat stop paste, taps to clear the bolt threads, etc. They also sold forging blocks for Mauser 98 - not sure if they had ones for m96 or not. Swapping out a different bolt body usually suggests at least a headspace check on the revised assembly.
Is also a possibility to consider a "scout" scope and mounting system - get the scope more or less ahead of the magazine - can still use chargers - do not have to alter bolt handle or safety - does not appeal to some people. Is not a "conventional" scope though - usually need an Intermediate Eye Relief scope - not a common hunting scope, not a pistol scope - for in between distance from eye-piece to eye.
OP specifically asked about turning down his original straight m96 handle - yes, is/was done commonly, as described. I also have a few that were apparently done by less than a professional - I chose not to use them. Besides "cut off and re-weld" - is also possible to partially cut, heat, bend and fill in the "knee" with weld, or find or make a set of forging blocks and forge the straight handle to be "scope friendly". I suspect most all "scope friendly" modifications to bolt handle will require a corresponding notch filed into the side of receiver and the stock notch for handle created or enlarged - for clearance. Do not want that bolt handle to touch the stock - metal to metal contact only - after confirming that the "new" bolt clocks properly. Also need to consider what to do about the safety - that "over the top" original safety flag likely will not work with a scope installed.