Getting The Lead Out - Part Deux - Post 32

StoneHorse

StoneHorse

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I picked up one of those gun cleaning cloths from Pro-Shot Products; Lead-Clean. Says not to use on blued or case-harden guns, just S.S. or nickel. Worked great cleaning the front of the revolver cylinder and chambers. Any reason not to use a patch(s) of this cloth on the INSIDE of the barrel for removing lead fouling? Is this cloth impregnated with an abrasive or is it a chemical reaction? Whatever it is it feels waxy and has a rather pleasant sweet smell to it. Nowhere on the packaging does it say not for use on the inside of a barrel but rather than assuming something, I like to ask.

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The best lead remover I ever used was a Lewis Lead Remover.

Lead fouling can build up in the forcing cone, barrel, and chamber of a pistol, ruining accuracy completely. The Lewis Lead Remover is the single best way to remove all leading easily, plus will not damage the gun in any way. Used and endorsed by the nation's top shooters. Use with J-B Bore Cleaner for the cleanest, lead-free barrel ever!

https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...ead-remover/lewis-lead-remover-prod21587.aspx
 
Brass patches. I didn't think of that. Would brass or copper wool work the same way? Wrap around a undersized bore brush?

Edit: Looks like the kit is unavailable for back order.
 
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Either Lewis lead remover or copper chore boy wrapped around a brush will remove any lead. I have tried the lead cloth for bores and word of warning you will never stop the cloth from being black. It works well for cylinder burn but I gave up cleaning the “ring” from my revolvers as it just comes back. A quick brush does all the cleaning of cylinder face that I worry about.
 
I do not own nor clean revolvers - so I am a bit curious - is it truly lead deposits within cylinder and face of cylinder, or is that powder residue / soot? I had read that historical lead removal from bores almost always was a mechanical abrasive thing - the lewis rust remover and similar - no doubt modern stuff exists to chemically dissolve lead - but not sure that I understand how lead deposit can occur within a cylinder??
 
Potashminer said:
I do not own nor clean revolvers - so I am a bit curious - is it truly lead deposits within cylinder and face of cylinder, or is that powder residue / soot? I had read that historical lead removal from bores almost always was a mechanical abrasive thing - the lewis rust remover and similar - no doubt modern stuff exists to chemically dissolve lead - but not sure that I understand how lead deposit can occur within a cylinder??
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I bought the cloth to clean off the powder burn marks from the front of the cylinder. Not to make it look like factory new, just to remove most of the discoloring. Powder solvent doesn't do a good job of doing that. It depends on how clean you want and will vary as per owner. I just happen to carry on with the cloth on each chamber to see for myself how well it cleans powder residue. It does an excellent job but I'll just go back to using a solvent wet bronze brush and cordless drill for the chambers. Getting lead fouling out of a barrel is a different matter. That takes mechanical abrasion from a metal that is harder than lead but softer than barrel steel. Like bronze or copper. I was curious about the use of the lead-clean cloth in removing lead from inside the barrel.
 
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Interesting. I will pick one up if I see it.

I had bad leading in my 30-30 playing with cast boolits.
Gun would shoot 1.5 moa and after the lead boolit faze I sighted the gun back in for my jacketed handloads. Was 8”-10” at 100yrds.
First thought was I scope was shot. Swapped it and same deal.

I ended up doing the chore-boi around a bore brush cleaned it right out and accuracy came back.

Haven’t touched lead cast since. But will try it again
 
regulate34 said:
Interesting. I will pick one up if I see it.

I had bad leading in my 30-30 playing with cast boolits.
Gun would shoot 1.5 moa and after the lead boolit faze I sighted the gun back in for my jacketed handloads. Was 8”-10” at 100yrds.
First thought was I scope was shot. Swapped it and same deal.

I ended up doing the chore-boi around a bore brush cleaned it right out and accuracy came back.

Haven’t touched lead cast since. But will try it again
Click to expand...

I shoot a lot of lead bullets out of my 94 and Savage 340. I use the Lyman 31141 (now called 311041) with GC. I cast them out of COWW, powder coat every lead bullet I shoot and still lube them. Never a leading problem. I also use lead bullets in my 38-55's, 40-60 Maynard, 40-65 Win, 40-70 Sharps Straight, 6 45-70's, 45-90 & 50-70. I use the same protocol in all these calibers and NO leading, EVER!
Try powder coating, you'll like it!
PS: Be sure to clean your rifle after shooting jacketed because lead just loves sticking to copper!
 
Answered my own question:

Lead Clean Cloth - Made in USA
Cloth Size: 8.75" x 11.25" - 98.4 Square Inches

  • Restores original luster, while removing leading, carbon residue, and tarnish.
  • Cloth can be cut to size/patches for removing unwanted residue inside the chamber, cylinder, forcing cone, bore and choke area.
  • Good for use on stainless and nickel firearms, tools, and knives.
  • Made in USA
Simple and easy to use. Simply remove the cloth, cut to desired size, and wipe the target areas of the object to see the tarnish and unwanted residue.

SPECIAL USE INSTRUCTIONS:
***Use of this cloth on blued and/or case hardened surfaces can harm finish.

According to another source, the cloth contains:

Aluminum Silicate, Light Mineral Oil, Lemon Oil with Yellow Dye, Wax, Ammonium Hydroxide
 
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Make up some Ed's Red and let your barrel soak in it overnight.

I usually plug the muzzle and fill the bore to appx halfway up in the chamber when doing rifle bores.

With handgun barrels, if it's a semi auto, I just pull the barrel and submerge in ER.

With revolver barrels, I usually just sumberge the whole thing, minus the grips of course. This loosens up the lead splatter around the cylinder and on the frame, as well as anything in the bore.

There are a couple of formulaes out there for Ed's Red, this is one of them

CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

*

1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
*

1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
*

1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits
*

CAS #64741-49-9, or substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent.
*

1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
*

(Optional 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, or OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)

MIXING INSTRUCTIONS:

Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal, chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA approved plastic gasoline storage containers are OK. Do NOT use HDPE, which is permeable, because the acetone will slowly evaporate. Acetone in ER will attack HDPE over time, causing the container to collapse, making a heck of a mess!

Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the otherainer to measure the other components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and stirring until it is all dissolved. I recommend diverting up to 4 ozs. per quart of the 50-50 ATF/kerosene mix to use as "ER-compatible" gun oil. This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the remaining mix. Label and safety warnings follow:
 
bearhunter said:
Make up some Ed's Red and let your barrel soak in it overnight.

I usually plug the muzzle and fill the bore to appx halfway up in the chamber when doing rifle bores.

With handgun barrels, if it's a semi auto, I just pull the barrel and submerge in ER.

With revolver barrels, I usually just sumberge the whole thing, minus the grips of course. This loosens up the lead splatter around the cylinder and on the frame, as well as anything in the bore.

There are a couple of formulaes out there for Ed's Red, this is one of them

CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

*

1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
*

1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
*

1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits
*

CAS #64741-49-9, or substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent.
*

1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
*

(Optional 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, or OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)

MIXING INSTRUCTIONS:

Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal, chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA approved plastic gasoline storage containers are OK. Do NOT use HDPE, which is permeable, because the acetone will slowly evaporate. Acetone in ER will attack HDPE over time, causing the container to collapse, making a heck of a mess!

Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the otherainer to measure the other components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and stirring until it is all dissolved. I recommend diverting up to 4 ozs. per quart of the 50-50 ATF/kerosene mix to use as "ER-compatible" gun oil. This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the remaining mix. Label and safety warnings follow:
Click to expand...

Holy crap that is a lot of work...

The total time to remove lead with a Lewis Lead Remover is measured in seconds...
 
guntech said:
The best lead remover I ever used was a Lewis Lead Remover.

Lead fouling can build up in the forcing cone, barrel, and chamber of a pistol, ruining accuracy completely. The Lewis Lead Remover is the single best way to remove all leading easily, plus will not damage the gun in any way. Used and endorsed by the nation's top shooters. Use with J-B Bore Cleaner for the cleanest, lead-free barrel ever!

https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...ead-remover/lewis-lead-remover-prod21587.aspx
Click to expand...

YES , from me too.
 
guntech said:
Holy crap that is a lot of work...

The total time to remove lead with a Lewis Lead Remover is measured in seconds...
Click to expand...

I fully agree.

I usually only use the ER solution when fouling is extreme.

I've had some guns brought in that just boggle the mind as to where the owner's head was at, to allow them to become so fouled.

The chore boy pads work as well.

The ER formulae was included for those with some serious leading issues.
 
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