range of prices for a bubba'ed longbranch?

louthepou

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Hi folks,

Just trying to get to know the Enfields a bit more. I'm starting to understand the values of typical bubba'ed N01 mk3* and No4 mk1* , but would the same kind of price range apply to bubba'ed Lonbranches?

Thanks!

Learning-Lou
 
Just after Christmas, I bought a nice old No.4 Mk 1, ROF, with magazine, sporter by Parker-Hale, ordinary military wood and sights, with P-H Made in England stamped on, for $100. Bolt matches, decent looking old rifle. Please hold off on the "Yes, but it's been bubba'd" comments. I don't mention this rifle to demonstrate any certain price range, just to assure the original question asker that is is still "okay" to buy a bubba'd Lee Enfield and enjoy it. Louthepou: Buy one and go have some fun!!:p:p
 
On average $75.00 to $150.00 at most gunshows.

If I saw a Long Branch sporter with an uncut full length barrel with a perfect bore, and matching numbers, such that all you have to do it put a full set of wood and bands on it to restore it to full glory, I would and have paid a premium price for it over a Brit rifle.
 
Longbranch

Agree with Cantom on that. As long as barrel is un-cut (still has bayonet lugs), VG+ bore bolt matchs receiver and preferably original satin blue. Many LB's were refurbed at some point. Refurbs done in Canada seem to be a sort of parkerized finish similiar to later 1950's and generally well done. Canada didnt mark FTR-year etc like England and some other countries did. Something else to consider, any Long Branch dated 1941 in any condition is worth restoring. Next rarest war-year is '45,'42. 1943-44 are highest production and most often encountered especially 1943. Post-war production run 1949-50 are lovely pieces. I'm still doing the "happy dance" since acquiring my first ever 1949 LB.
Cheers
 
Agree with Cantom on that. As long as barrel is un-cut (still has bayonet lugs), VG+ bore bolt matchs receiver and preferably original satin blue. Many LB's were refurbed at some point. Refurbs done in Canada seem to be a sort of parkerized finish similiar to later 1950's and generally well done. Canada didnt mark FTR-year etc like England and some other countries did. Something else to consider, any Long Branch dated 1941 in any condition is worth restoring. Next rarest war-year is '45,'42. 1943-44 are highest production and most often encountered especially 1943. Post-war production run 1949-50 are lovely pieces. I'm still doing the "happy dance" since acquiring my first ever 1949 LB.
Cheers


Did you buy Zefarm's 49? :D

Here's mine. Appeared to be unissued, came with a tag in Greek.

749LB.jpg



BTW, yes, original finish is better, but since the greenish finished parkerizing was done right at the Long Branch factory in Canada, I accept rifles finished thus as only a few percentage points lower...
 
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Thanks. I spotted a Longbranch near Montreal, waiting for news on matching numbers. Doubt I'll take it, the guy's asking too much, but let's see what kind of fun info I can dig out of that one.

Lou
 
Thanks. I spotted a Longbranch near Montreal, waiting for news on matching numbers. Doubt I'll take it, the guy's asking too much, but let's see what kind of fun info I can dig out of that one.

Lou

If you get pics and info on it let me know, I'll let you know if it's a good deal or not.
Must have a shiny perfect bore or it's near worthless.
 
If you get pics and info on it let me know, I'll let you know if it's a good deal or not.
Must have a shiny perfect bore or it's near worthless.

No LB is ever worthless. Even with a sewer bore, as long as the full wood is put back on it, I would expect to see $325 by deactivating it. Mind you, I usually reserve that fate for un-bubba'd Brit or US made no4s. And believe it or not, at that price, I have guys line up for them.
 
No LB is ever worthless. Even with a sewer bore, as long as the full wood is put back on it, I would expect to see $325 by deactivating it. Mind you, I usually reserve that fate for un-bubba'd Brit or US made no4s. And believe it or not, at that price, I have guys line up for them.


I know a new deact has to have NO #### AND CLICK, but what about a Bolt action milsurp.. can you deact it and still shackel the bolt?
 
I know a new deact has to have NO #### AND CLICK, but what about a Bolt action milsurp.. can you deact it and still shackel the bolt?
The current guidelines do not say "no #### and click". Perhaps where the confusion comes in is that a gun which was capable of auto fire must have it's trigger mech welded up and in, and the CFC won't accept the slide still being able to move on an automatic handgun.

There are two ways to weld the bolt into the receiver on a No4. After grinding the bolt head at a 45 degree angle to the 7:00 direction, you can weld the bolt removal button below the woodline so the bolt can't come out. If it's a * model of no4, then filling in and regrooving the opening where the bolt head pops out will do it. Of course, these are on top of pinning the barrel (also done from under the wood line), and welding the mag platform and mag into the receiver (if a mag is present ;) ).
 
I don't get why you need to neuter the magazine??

What difference does a LEGAL (non-prohib) mag make? Especially if the botl is neutered and non-removeble and the bbl is pinned, blocked, welded on, etc.
 
Because the folks responsible for the guidelines say so.
It doesn't have to make any difference, sense or anything else. Its just because.
 
Thanks guys, this is quite intertaining and interesting. Cantom, I'll find pics and more info. The bolt and rifle have matching numbers, but no number on the mag.

Now, I do have a question. Why would I deactivate a rifle that can shoot. That I don't understand! Thanks

Lou
 
'49 Lb

Did you buy Zefarm's 49? :D

Here's mine. Appeared to be unissued, came with a tag in Greek.

749LB.jpg



BTW, yes, original finish is better, but since the greenish finished parkerizing was done right at the Long Branch factory in Canada, I accept rifles finished thus as only a few percentage points lower...

Cantom, no I got my '49 LB from BDL in South Carolina. Took a couple months for paperwork, but well worth the wait. They were Greek issued. My Buddy and I got his last two 49's.
Cheers
Geoff
 
Thanks guys, this is quite intertaining and interesting. Cantom, I'll find pics and more info. The bolt and rifle have matching numbers, but no number on the mag.

Now, I do have a question. Why would I deactivate a rifle that can shoot. That I don't understand! Thanks

Lou

Friends of mine use them to display with their military vehicles. The hassles of live guns just aren't worth it to them. Far better in the event of theft during these displays. Occasionally, during displays, youngsters like to collect souvenirs.
I don't get why you need to neuter the magazine??

What difference does a LEGAL (non-prohib) mag make? Especially if the botl is neutered and non-removeble and the bbl is pinned, blocked, welded on, etc.

As Tiriaq mentions, because it is the requirement to deregister. Legally, as soon as the barrel has been blind pinned through the receiver, it is no longer a firearm, in that it can no longer easily be made to shoot. But to meet the RCMP deactivation guidelines, in order to deregister a gun, the mag must have the follower welded and the magazine welded in to the gun. I rarely see this done, mind you. In the military, a mag in the rifle = loaded.
 
So if de-registration isn't an issue (ie, an older dewat or a gun that has never been registered), then you really don;t need to weld in a neutered magazine. Gotcha.

What about if you wanted to dewat an Enfield and you didn't HAVE the mag? Would the CFC make you go buy one for $30 or whatever just so you'd have something to weld into the gun? Sounds stupid. Plus, I'd think those gun-grabbers would want to FACILITATE disarming of the populace, not throw stupid barriers in the way of destroying firearms. It's not liek a removable mag makes any difference to a paerweight's lethality.
 
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