Initial Cost to Start Reloading?

Mazeofmystery

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Hey all!

So, as I'm sure most have found, certain types of ammunition have been pretty much dried up depending on where you are.

Well, .30-06 in my area is non-existent, unless I want to pay over $60 a box.

Would anyone be able to tell me what the initial cost would be to start reloading? Should i buy new, or can i buy certain pieces used? Are there pieces of equipment i should ONLY buy new?

I'm also assuming I don't need a shop in my house to reload. I have a work bench i use for fly tying and fixing stuff that i wouldnt mind attaching stuff to.

Thanks for the help!
 
A used Lee single stage press can be had for couple hundred bucks. There’s lots of different makes/styles of presses to choose from
I use a Lee loadmaster (x reload has a sale on loadmasters right now)
Lee dies are around $60
Reloading manual $50 to $75
Powder scale, prices vary depending on what you want
Case lube/ lube pad $20
Powder trickler $25
Powder funnel $10
Components are where things can be troublesome as they are in short supply right now
You will need primers, powder, bullets and brass
There is lots of other doodads that help/aid in reloading but only you can decide on what you absolutely need
Lee, RCBS, hornady also offer complete packages you can buy
 
i started loading 303 British with a lee loader I bought for $35, then I picked up 100 primers for $4.50 and a pound of H4895 for $45.00 and 100 cast bullets for $25
so id say that is the bare minimum, you may want a case trimmer for 30-06 though

I've since bought a projector progressive, a lee turret press, a lock'N'load classic press, have loads of bullet molds, a few thousand primers, probably 20 pound of powder, neck turner, case trimmer, over 15 sets of dies, a powder thrower, digital scale, lee scoop set, lee shell holder set,

and on and on. what you need vs what you want can be quite a bit different. I bought a mix of new and used. if is i good shape it doesn't matter if it was used or not, so buy from a person with good trader score or inspect the item first.
 
Honestly for starting off, most of the stuff you don't need to buy new.

The classic Lee C style single stage presses can be found for like 30$, same with the safety scale ( slow but accurate ) You can scoop powder out of the container with a spoon. Light taps can dispense a little.

Case lube pad, you can fold up a old towel. Get some liquid lanolin and some alcohol, mix it together and put it in a squirt bottle from the dollar store and get some good case lube. Honestly manuals are not worth it as you can find everything online. Thru the powder website or forums.

Lee makes these case trimmers that goes on your drill for about 20$. The debur tool and primer pocket are not that $$$. You can just use dish soap, water and lemi shine in a PB jar and shake them around. It will get them serviceable clean.
 
Depends how much you shoot, 30-06 can take up to 2-3 thousand rounds to pay for itself depending on what setup you buy and choice of components. Have to ask yourself what you want to accomplish with reloading and how much interest you really have in shooting and guns in general. Time is a factor, takes time to load ammo, takes time to find components these days as well, takes time and expense to work up loads, no magic formulas involved. Sometimes you accomplish what you want fairly easily, sometimes not, guns can be fussy, or not. There are quite a few people get into it and decide it isn't their thing, sell off what they bought. Then there are lots who have acquired lots of stuff and sell off the extras. There are deals and then some folk who think they'll get rich quick, the usual panorama you see with other goods. Won't really save any money, just shoot more for the same money, or shoot more and spend more. It does allow you to shoot some different guns that you may not have looked at otherwise, allow you to shoot in a discipline you may not have otherwise considered, meet some good people.
 
Would something like the "Lee® 50th Anniversary Reloader Kit" suffice in allowing me to test the waters for reloading? Is all thats missing some dies and case lube? I'd probably get a digital scale too... and of course, shells, bullets, powder, and primers.
 
Would something like the "Lee® 50th Anniversary Reloader Kit" suffice in allowing me to test the waters for reloading? Is all thats missing some dies and case lube? I'd probably get a digital scale too... and of course, shells, bullets, powder, and primers.

Its perfect for a beginner. I bought one 30 years ago, and still use it today. Beyond dies and case lube, you will need a case trimmer Lee calls the cartridge specific part a "case gage".
 
Would something like the "Lee® 50th Anniversary Reloader Kit" suffice in allowing me to test the waters for reloading? Is all thats missing some dies and case lube? I'd probably get a digital scale too... and of course, shells, bullets, powder, and primers.

Yes it will be fine. I started reloading with a Lee hand press, lee dies. I made thousand of rounds with that, in .45 ACP, 30/30and 30/06.
Buy a reloading manual. It contain steps to reloading, good general infos, some info on internal balistics, safety, choice of powders and most important load data.
 
tons of used stuff out there......find an older shooter reloader and let him help you ........a lot has to do with the action type you are shooting.....if you are truly wanting to get into it im happy to help ......don
 
Depends how much you shoot, 30-06 can take up to 2-3 thousand rounds to pay for itself depending on what setup you buy and choice of components. Have to ask yourself what you want to accomplish with reloading and how much interest you really have in shooting and guns in general. Time is a factor, takes time to load ammo, takes time to find components these days as well, takes time and expense to work up loads, no magic formulas involved. Sometimes you accomplish what you want fairly easily, sometimes not, guns can be fussy, or not. There are quite a few people get into it and decide it isn't their thing, sell off what they bought. Then there are lots who have acquired lots of stuff and sell off the extras. There are deals and then some folk who think they'll get rich quick, the usual panorama you see with other goods. Won't really save any money, just shoot more for the same money, or shoot more and spend more. It does allow you to shoot some different guns that you may not have looked at otherwise, allow you to shoot in a discipline you may not have otherwise considered, meet some good people.

This is a very good post! I agree with every point made!!

Maybe helps to break down costs - to load your 30-06, going to need a primer, powder, and bullet for every round fired, and have a useable case for it. So, $0.12 per primer, perhaps 45 grains of powder - so 7,000 grains in a pound - pay $90 per pound and would be about $0.58 for powder. Perhaps $0.50 per bullet. So that is $1.20 per round, these days, in components - if you have useable cases. If you pay $1 each for new cases, is reasonable to expect 10 firings? So you use up $0.10 "worth" of case for each firing - so now $1.30 per round in components - that is $26 per box of 20 cartridges. Substitute whatever the costs are, for you to acquire, where you are. If you have never done this at all, is many types of primers, powders and bullets - many will "work" - some are really poor choices, and some just will not work. So you need some clue for a start point, to reload. What size and brand of primer, what type of powder, what size and weight of bullet, what plan do you have for cases?

Reloading tool costs - is very much about time versus cost - I am sure some of the tools I used a few days ago, are easy 30 years old - they work fine, still. Like many others, in the 1970's, I started with the Lee Loader boxed kit - it will neck size only - I am sure was less than $30 - so about what a couple boxes of factory shells cost then - everything in there that you needed to re-load factory-once fired or new brass for your rifle - IF you read and understood the little card in there, and got the correct bullets and correct powder for that scoop. I just checked - is still three of them here - 308 Win, 30-06 and 22-250. Like many others, I progressed to a simple single leverage press - that needs $50 per cartridge die set, some way to lube and remove lube from sized cases, and a shell holder for that cartridge for the press - NOTE - back in the day RCBS shell holders were like $3 each - now pushing $30 each on Amazon.ca - but, lets you re-form cases previously fired in any other rifle, not just from yours. And just grows from there - get concerned about case length, so need something to trim to length and chamfer. Then want to get more "precise" about powder load, or use different powder, so get a beam scale and trickler - or make do without the trickler. Then get an automated digital scale plus dispenser in one unit - I am sure the RCBS Chargemaster Lite that I got last year cost more than I had paid for all the previous purchases of my reloading tools. Is about no end to how much that you spend on tooling - some is good stuff - about necessary to have - some is "silly" - a modern sales pitch to accomplish something easily done for cents - often the "old way" described in the "how-to-reload" sections of several reloading manuals. Is pretty much that what you do not know or understand how to do cheaply, that you will pay hundreds of dollars for gizmos that will do it for you - is your choice.

Is at least two approaches that I see here - one extreme is totally about cost - the fellow shows up with a box of mixed brand, previously fired cases - some obviously previously reloaded an unknown number of times, some are factory once fired - some from his rifle, some picked up at shooting spot - some just filthy dirty with grit and dirt, some shiny like new. Wants to "reload them" - no plan, no information - just what somebody told him, or what he might have read on Internet - tends to be "happy" with any result that goes "bang" and that a hole appears somewhere. "Sighting in", "shooting groups", "pressure test series" etc. often viewed as a waste of shells. At other extreme, here, buddy has a second hand factory rifle - and wants to go through entire bench rest commotion of reloading, as if that will make him get groups like he sees shot by Eric Cortina and others. Will go through dozens of rounds in search of the perfect load to 0.05 grain, and .001" depth of seating - very certain that that will make a huge difference for his shooting - perhaps even to offset some deficiencies in shooter's ability or his rifle.

Very much depends what you are trying to accomplish - some just want to shoot a deer - so like 12" diameter kill zone - out to perhaps 300 yards. Another guy wants to shoot small-ish 5 shot groups on a target at 100 yards, or 500 yards. Sometimes need hours of fine tuning work on the rifle to produce, sometimes just grab a WWII produced battle rifle and is "good enough" for the desired task.

You will also find very different comments from a rifleman who owns and has used one rifle for 30 years, versus someone who owns and periodically fires more than 20 rifles - first guy tends to be very positive that his is the "best"; second guy often swapping barrels, trying different chamberings, to find "the best". It helps you to understand where their comments are coming from. Is similar to the shooter who fires 5 rounds per year, versus the guy that fires 5000 rounds per year - different experiences, different perspectives about it.
 
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Depends how much you shoot, 30-06 can take up to 2-3 thousand rounds to pay for itself depending on what setup you buy and choice of components. Have to ask yourself what you want to accomplish with reloading and how much interest you really have in shooting and guns in general. Time is a factor, takes time to load ammo, takes time to find components these days as well, takes time and expense to work up loads, no magic formulas involved. Sometimes you accomplish what you want fairly easily, sometimes not, guns can be fussy, or not. There are quite a few people get into it and decide it isn't their thing, sell off what they bought. Then there are lots who have acquired lots of stuff and sell off the extras. There are deals and then some folk who think they'll get rich quick, the usual panorama you see with other goods. Won't really save any money, just shoot more for the same money, or shoot more and spend more. It does allow you to shoot some different guns that you may not have looked at otherwise, allow you to shoot in a discipline you may not have otherwise considered, meet some good people.

Some people don't reload because it is cheaper. They reload as they don't have any other choice, OR better want to make better more high quality rounds, or just enjoy it. I was never worried about the cost, neither was my father who taught me to reload near 20 years ago. And I watched him put a 308 thru the center of a 223 neck w/o tearing the sides. So his ammo he made must be good.

People complain how CT isn't a gun store. But to some, that ALL we have. I cannot goto the store and pick up 30 Herrett, or 357 Rem Max.
 
While you are thinking about getting into reloading you might also want to consider casting your own bullets as that is where substantial savings can be realized. I'm guessing that an entire new casting kit including mould, melting pot, size die and lube could be had for about $250. With even the cheapest pistol bullets now costing at least $100/1000, casting 2500 bullets covers your initial investment and then the bullets are essentially free, especially if you have a cheap source for casting alloy.

Add a pound of powder and a toaster oven for another $40-50 and you can make powder coated bullets that you can drive at near rifle velocities. I don't do much rifle reloading but right now using up my old stock of powder and primers (which I bought cheaper than they are today), fired brass and casting my own bullets. I'm reloading handgun cartridges in 32 S&W Long, 9mm, 38 Special, 40 S&W, 44 mag & 45 ACP for about $3-4 for a box of 50 which is pretty sweet when even commercail 9mm are north of $20/box these days.
 
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You know $60 a box isn't bad . When I started in 1980 , regular prices for 30-06 was between $14 and $20 . On Sale around $12 . A funny thing I can remember what I paid 40 years ago, but yesterday is bit of a blank. That's old age for you.

20 years ago, my two sons were learning to shoot and a trip to the range was 2 boxes. I got a full Lee kit. $125. The problem is once you have a reloading kit, a whole world opens up to you .
 
You don’t need to buy anything new. And you don’t need to buy everything. I’ve been reloading for 30 years and I still don’t have a powder trickler and case lube pad (I lube my cases with Crisco on my finger.) Also, don’t fret too much about initial costs ... because at the end of your reloading life you’ll likely be able to sell your gear for pretty close to what you paid (if not more). And after you’re set up and comfortable reloading, consider casting bullets. Right now my cost per bullet is limited to the cost of the primer and the powder used. So, depending on the powder load, my shooting costs vary from 15 to 75 cents/ cartridge. (I shoot 30/30, 30-06, 338-06, and 12 gauge slugs.)
 
I saw the craziest deal at cabela's yesterday. 179$ for a whole kit made by Lyman with pretty much all you need. Wish I saw that before buying my RCBS kit. They Out-Lee'd Lee.
 
If all you are doing is firing a few sight in shots and shots for the hunt, you are better off to source some commercially made 30-06. Even during these tough times it is out there to be found. Buy a few years worth of supply.

If you are serious about wanting to reload for all of the good reasons stated by others then start to assemble the components that you need.

For low volume a single stage press is all you need. I started many years ago with a basic RCBS Jr. press and RCBS components. I don't even know if they still make the little Jr. press. Grab a Rockchucker if one pops up for sale. It has more leverage.

Go buy new or keep watching the reloading components thread under the Equipment Exchange.

Once you are setup for one cartridge it is easy to expand to other calibres with just a set of dies and of course the appropriate primer, powder, bullet.

Watch a few youtube videos and you will figure it out pretty quick.

It is a great hobby for those that are interested and willing to pay attention to detail.

In regards to your question about cost. The ability to self serve is priceless.
 
Lyman ain't as good as they used to be. I'd take RCBS over Lyman.

I do not know about Lyman, but many companies today have about nothing to do with what they were. Example - Herter, Inc. is now defunct - whatever you think or experienced with Herter reloading tools, is NOT the same any more - Cabela's bought the "Herter" brand name at the bankruptcy, and now sell Herter brand ammo, among other things - has nothing whatever to do with the former company, except that brand name.

Weaver scopes - were made in El Paso, USA when Bill Weaver was alive - after he passed, that Weaver brand name was bought and sold - "Weaver" scopes now made off shore (China?) and have nothing whatever - good or bad - to do with the original Weavers.

When I apprenticed in 1980's - tradesmen assured me that I wanted Nicholsan files - made in USA - best tool to use for what we did - so when I retired, I bought a set for myself - stamped right on them - "made in Brazil", "made in Mexico" - so if modern Nicholsan is still same ownership, the product that they sell is no longer the same - almost is like they are "cashing in" on the reputation that the brand name had made in previous decades. Or maybe the "old guys" actually only knew one brand name (like their beer!), and always ordered that!!!
 
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I had issues with my Lyman Cyclone tumbler. Wanted me to pay over 60USD for shipping that they might fix it. Problem Is their belt pulley was a washer, a bearing and another washer. So belt rode up into the washer and spin that vs spinning on the bearing. Made a god awful screech. Then the screws for the motor alignment once you unscrew them, the holes strip.

But when I told them I ended up fixing it and dont need to send it in. Got a lame reply back.
 
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